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antipode12 · Jun 28, 2009, 05:32 PM

I plan to build a deck this summer off my french doors.

I also plan to replace my aluminum siding in a year or two.

How do I attach the deck to the house (under the doors) considering that I will re-side the house in a couple of years?

ballengerb1 · Jun 29, 2009, 10:28 AM

Will the deck be wider than the doors? Is that really a window well directly below the doors? A very unfortunate location for both the water spigot and the window well. Is the space below this door a basement and can you access the water line to the spigot?

antipode12 · Jun 29, 2009, 11:21 AM

Yes - the deck will be wider (2-3 feet on either side), but I only plan to attach to the house below the doorway.

The water spigot is getting moved.

The window cannot really be helped.

So, I guess my question is can I build the deck NOW and add the siding later? Would that require me to later remove the deck attachments?

Also, should I leave that board exposed, or side over it once I do the siding?

ballengerb1 · Jun 29, 2009, 05:38 PM

If you are building per code your entire length must be attached so that's current door plus 6'. A ledger must be attached full length so the bottom 3 courses of siding must come off. Lag the ledger into the homes perimeter board and then use hangers on the ledger to hold your joists. Call your building inspector and ask his "advice" and he'll let you know what he will, and will not, approve.

antipode12 · Jun 30, 2009, 07:13 AM

So, the entire length of the deck -- good to know.

Now, when it comes time to re-side in a year or two, does the ledger board get sided over, or do I just side around it?

ballengerb1 · Jun 30, 2009, 08:49 AM

The ledger board will not show at all since your joists and floor boards will cover it. The siding goes around the edges. In most towns you will need a permit so ask the building inspector for some free "advise" to get his wisdom and get on his best side too.

antipode12 · Jun 30, 2009, 09:06 AM

Tell you the truth (and I know this will drive you nuts) but I have no plans to get a permit.

When we bought the house, the pool, existing deck, shed, finished basement, and fence did not have permits. Our lawyer informed us that it would cost major bucks to permit and renovate to standards.

When you buy a house around here, the town doe not come in to appraise, so they don't know what has a permit.

If I were to bring the town in now for the deck, they would get me for everything else, which I just can't afford (forget about the tax increases... )

ballengerb1 · Jun 30, 2009, 10:55 AM

You are right, that does drive me a bit nuts. It makes sense though because a building department would not have allowed that door to be over the window well. If you have any other deck questions just keep posting here. If you need to switch to a new topic then start a fresh post to attract the correct expert. Good luck with your project. How to Attach a Deck to a House - wikiHow

antipode12 · Jul 1, 2009, 10:27 AM

Oh, and out of curiosity, why is the door over the window well an issue?

ballengerb1 · Jul 1, 2009, 03:46 PM

Doors are considered an egress, fire escape. You can have a window well directly under the door, it's a dangerous situation. My guess is that door was originally a window and later remodeling turned it into a door. When the house was originally built the plans would not have a window well under a door opening.

21boat · Jul 1, 2009, 06:59 PM

Just to kick in here. Don't forget to counter flashing behind the ledger board and flashing above the ledger board.

To cut the siding use a plywood blade in a circular saw and put it in back wards. After flashing you can sneak a "J" channel up in or just tack the last course of siding until you get the New

06f150 · Jul 1, 2009, 08:41 PM

I know that deck is not very high and you said you are skipping a permit. But just because you don't get a permit does not mean you can not built the deck to code.

On attaching the leader board, at least here you need a minimum of 3/8 lag bolts every 16 O.C"

Like 21 boat said, they make flashing just for ledger broads, fits over a 2x and the lips over the edge and runs up the back vertical about 2.5"

antipode12 · Jul 2, 2009, 10:19 AM

You guys are helpful, so I have one more question: my deck will sit partially on soil (I'll sink concrete footings) and partially on the existing poured concrete patio.

What is the best method to attach the posts to the concrete patio?

21boat · Jul 2, 2009, 12:34 PM

Some codes require an opposite U metal bracket that's attached to the concrete frost footer and the U part is attached to the post.

Personally I'm an old fashion builder and the most attractive way was to drill in the concrete and use a 1/2 coated rebar pin. This is hammered into the Crete with about 4" sticking out of the footer.

Then you drill into the center of the post to accept the pin. Before you pin it there we use store bought feet which lifts the post off the ground about 1" + attached to bottom of post before setting post. This keeps the bottom of the post off the concrete for water rot.

In some cases we use treated bays and put feet around that bottom of the post. These are slightly kept off the ground and gives the post a nice finished look,e of course we bevel cut the tops of the 1bs to shed water.

Now here's how to cover your butt and I've done this many times for "quick jobs". Call an inspector and find out the code on the attachment for the deck. Even though you aren't pulling a permit at least you build to code specks.

This is for all here. I actually did a renovation on a small commercial building. Making a 3 car service bays put of a 3 sided block building, One side was open. We never pulled a permit. I told the customer we will get burned here but nothing will get torn out. They will finally come when the garage doors are hung which makes it a structure/building.

This happened and a cease order sticker was issued as we were stopped on working that day.The fines were cheap compared to the cost of prints etc. We got shut down twice ( dug out for footer concrete slab beside the structure.) Bottom line here is of $ 100 thousands worth of work and not one thing was wrong in what we did. I even kept access above the office waiting ares to show the stamping for the fire rated drywall. C label doors between th shop. Panic hardware smoke detectors etc etc. Nothing makes an inspector more mad when he catches you and everything is up to code.

So cover yourself as much as possible. Find out the codes permit or not and build according as much as possible if not all to code.

antipode12 · Jul 5, 2009, 06:16 PM

Happy 4th!

I was personally thinking of just using a bracket to attach to the posts, and using the Hilti gun to attach to the concrete. Would that work?

With the "U" bracket, how does it get attached to the concrete patio?

With the rebar pin, does the rebar just sit in the hole in the concrete, or is there any cement?

21boat · Jul 9, 2009, 04:31 PM

Sorry I didn't get back. We just drill a hole in the concrete bow out the dust. Use 100% silicone in hole and pound rebar pin in coated hole.

Cut pin after 4" above finish Crete floor. On the end of the post pencil form corner to opposite corner, both ways and the lines intersectiing is the center of the post to drill. Coat hole in pole and around the Crete at floors. Tap light sledge post to Crete floor. Now its pinned ans sealed on the bottom.

Drill 3/8 hole 4 1/2" up that end. C
The U bracket is tapconed into the Crete. The post sits on that.

As as a tradesmen I don't like is the electrolysis that happens when metal to Crete is done and metal fast rust because of that. Seen it fail too often