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Maritimer · May 11, 2009, 07:28 AM

I have a 12 inch long non freeze outside tap that is leaking.The tap has a chrome pipe the extends 11 inches inside the house wall. The outside part of the tap has a horizontal rising spindle valve handle, and the spigot aiming down and on top of the valve it looks like a second place to attach a hose but it has a white plastic disc with another inner plastic disc both with rubber washers inside and a chrome cap the threads on. When you take valve handle off you see a inside threaded nut and when removed you find a metal washer with a 1/4" thick washer and then another metal washer thats sits against a small rise on the copper pipe. when you look at it now you see a copper pipe inside a chrome pipe. When you unscrew the copper pipe it comes out and is 12 inches long with a screw on the end then a rubber washer then a small flange with a very thin rubber washer, the screw threads into another flange that has a 3/4" inch in length copper pipe peace attached that has four slices cut out of it and a little lip on the very end. This peace is held inside the copper pipe by just the lip on the end which slides in and out of the end of the 12 inch copper pipe and when pulled out there is a spring inside. The twelve inch copper pipe on the valve handle end just behind where the valve handle is attached there is a small 1/8" hole. My problem is instead of the water travelling JUST between the copper pipe and the chrome pipe and then out the spigot, water gets inside the the copper pipe also which sprays out the 1/8" hole and makes quite the mess outside. I have talked with workers at numerous hardware store plumbing employess and no-one really understands how these valve works or how to fix my problem. I have bought and installed a replacement kit that has new everything except the valve itself and the water still leaks out the whole in the copper line right behind the valve handle. I bought this house 3 years ago and there are no shutoffs for the 2 outside taps and both are hidden inside finished room walls or ceilings. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks and have a great week.

ballengerb1 · May 11, 2009, 07:44 AM

Remove the handle then the large nut around the pipe. Now open the valve and keep opening, the entire shaft will unscrew from the tube and you will see a 12" brass rod with some black rings, a spring and a white plastic gate right near the end. take the whole thing to a GOOD hardware store and home center and thell them you want a "refill."

afaroo · May 11, 2009, 03:30 PM

Bob nailed it down, I am just adding the link belo for info, hope it work, good luck.

John

http://www.moen.com/shared/pdf/200508pt.pdf

ballengerb1 · May 11, 2009, 08:07 PM

Funny thing, mine failed today and I just spent $16 any bought the whole unit, much easier than trying to repair, just one screwed on adapter and one solder joint.

afaroo · May 11, 2009, 08:36 PM

Yep it is easy for you to replace it many people doesn't know how to do the soldering, and doesn't have the torch, Thanks.

John

Maritimer · May 11, 2009, 09:38 PM

Thanks for the info guys but I've already tried 2 refills or kits and the leak persists, I do not have a plastic gate on the end, although it looks almost identical to the link that was provided,the only difference is near the end of the 12"brass inner pipe their is nothing on the outter circumference, just a brass sleave with 2 rubber O rings and a thin rubber washer with a screw holding it togetherand the spring inside the brass pipe being held their by brass sleave, and the sleave can slide in and out of the brass 12"pipe almost half an inch in and out and on this sleave there is 4 grooves cut in the sleave which for some reason allows water inside the brass pipe where its not supposed to be and where my leak problem is started. I live in Nova Scotia, my tap was purchased at a Home Hardware store 3 years ago and it seems to be generic not moen even though their almost identical. Thanks for the all the help but unfortunately not solved. Sorry for the long wording in the first part of this question as I spent 2 hrs surfing the internet and couldn't find a diagram of it and its kind of hard to put into words.

afaroo · May 11, 2009, 09:45 PM

Hello Maritimer,

I would suggest to replace the whole assembly as Bob suggested, good luck.

John

afaroo · May 11, 2009, 09:47 PM

Hello Maritimer,

Do you have the name and the model number of you your valve if not, I would suggest to replace the whole assembly as Bob suggested, good luck.

John

massplumber2008 · May 12, 2009, 04:29 AM

Maritimer:

As suggested... sounds like it's time to replace that unit! You can replace the unit without soldering...

If you have COPPER PIPE purchase a new anti.-freeze outside tap and a 1/2" copper SHARKBITE type coupling and 1/2" copper sharkbite female adapter (see pictures). You should also purchase a 2 or 3 foot piece of 1/2" copper pipe TYPE L and some 1/2" teflon tape.

When you get home, shut the water off and cut out the old outside tap. Then wrap the 1/2" teflon tape clockwise around the threads of the new tap (6 wraps) and install the female sharkbite fitting by tightening hand tight plus a turn or two more. Then install the sharkbite coupling onto the pipe inside... just pushes on... make sure it goes onto the pipe deep enough. Then install the new tap into place and measure the length of pipe needed between fittings... be sure to include for depth of both fittings. Then push the pipe into each fitting and secure the tap properly. Turn on water to test and you should be all set.

NOTE: You may need to enlarge the hole through the wall to accommodate the sharkbite fitting. They also sell a tool to mark the depth for these sharkbite fittings, but if you push hard enough they will seat fine. Sharkbite fittings are available at almost all home improvement stores

If not copper and you have galvanized piping then let us know and we can talk you through that... O.K.

MARK

Maritimer · May 12, 2009, 09:37 AM

Thanks everyone for trying to help solve this, it seems that replacement is the answer. I was trying to avoid it as I bought this house 3 years ago from a family that lived in it for a year after they built it. There are no shutoffs for the outside taps and they are both hidden behind finished walls or ceilings. I trying to locate the builder to find out how the pipes run before cutting into the gyproc as I hope to cover the holes with vents made for air exchangers. I also plan to put in shut offs. Thanks agaon everyone for your help and have a great week.