Check out some similar questions!

pare_john · May 6, 2009, 07:08 PM

Do they not make a close brass nipple that is a reducer in itself? Meaning one male end is 3/4" and the other end is 1/2"

Also if I am using a close brass nipple How will I properly tighten it. If I am right a close nipple has no nut to put a wrench on

Milo Dolezal · May 6, 2009, 09:05 PM

Brass on Brass bites well. You can put all 4 pieces together by hand and screw it by hand into body female outlet. Than, take small wrench and: first tighten reducing coupling and close nipple together and into the body, than Copper female and close nipple into the reducer. This way, you don't touch nipples at all. Use pipe dope. With pipe dope, you can solder pipe into the copper Female Adapter and won't loose the seal...

I know somebody makes this reducer since I had one in my hand few years back - but do not remember how it got into my van.

pare_john · May 7, 2009, 03:56 PM

OK well I contacted Moen. The answer is all I need to use a 1/2" threaded adapter and then weld right to that. The reason i was confused is cause on a 1/2" threaded adapter is 1/2" ID the OD is actually 5/8", which is why the 1/2" copper pipe is loose within the valve.

Milo Dolezal · May 7, 2009, 05:25 PM

Yes, they sometimes supply those with their faucets. I didn't think of that as I got carried away with that 3/4" dimension. Good you called Moen. Thanks for sharing... Milo

pare_john · May 20, 2009, 03:21 AM

Another question,

As mentioen my shower will be tiled, thus I will be using cement board on the walls. My question is if I really need to put a water proofing membrane? Or will I be fine with the cement board with the tiles over it.
Thanks

massplumber2008 · May 20, 2009, 03:51 AM

Hey John...

Are we talking about a LIQUID waterproofing membrane where you paint it on the cement board and use a membrane to seal all the seams... one like this (see image)?

I started using this stuff awhile back now and I love it! As a contractor that needs to guarantee all work for a year minimum I feel that this EXTRA precaution is worth the extra $75.00 to $100.00.

Most people, including myself for years, only install the cement board and the alkali-resistant screws, tape the cement board joints and tile away... and it has worked very well over the years. However, since this is your FIRST big tile job (I think..? ) I think that the liquid membrane is a great idea... almost guarantees a job that will last for years without problems.

Let me know what you think here...

MARK

pare_john · May 20, 2009, 02:14 PM

It is not my first tiling job but I am no pro either. I will definitely look into this system. I have already seeing it at the local hardware store.

pare_john · May 20, 2009, 04:05 PM

Another question,

I was debating on using a floor membrane like the Schluter Kurdi system for under the ceramic tile. My sub floor is very solid with no movement. But I have heard of these systems and thought I would see what you guys have to say about it. I have done tile floors before without this membrane and never had issues.

Let me know

Milo Dolezal · May 20, 2009, 05:27 PM

Mark gave you great idea with the water proofing coating. However, you should nail asphalt paper over the studs with no less than 6" overlap.

I am not familiar with Shluter Kurdi system so I won't comment on it.

pare_john · May 20, 2009, 05:39 PM

Do you have any suggestions as far as an underlayment for ceramic tile floor. Or can I just go straight on the plywood?

Milo Dolezal · May 20, 2009, 05:46 PM

Definitely NOT directly over ply. For floors, you have to use 1/2" cement board over ply, like Hardi-Backer or Dura-Rock. Attach boards with screws designed for fastening cement boards. Make sure you drive them into joists, not only to the sub-floor. All materials can be purchased in Home Depot / Lowe's.

massplumber2008 · May 20, 2009, 05:49 PM

Hey guys... I want to weigh in on this but can't tonight... gotta blow bubbles with my little guy! I'll be back on at early AM and at least share my thoughts!
Milo has you headed in the right direction, for sure!

Goodnight!

pare_john · May 20, 2009, 06:06 PM

Schluter-DITRA - Schluter-Systems

Here is the product I am considering to put over my plywood. My subfloor is as follows

Basement bathroom with concrete floor.
2 x 4's laid flat with a 12” OC spacing.
5/8's plywood glued and heavily screwed

pare_john · May 20, 2009, 06:14 PM

I read more through the website and this product is more the adequate for my installation. I am very surprised that you guys have never heard of this product. It is widely used here in canada.

massplumber2008 · May 21, 2009, 03:08 AM

Hey John:

We have certainly heard of schluter-kerdi system... looks great! However, in my area we lay out some thinset mortar (just like the schluter-kerdi system requires) with 1/4" notch trowel, lay our HARDIBACKER cement board, and then screw the board down every 6 inches using alkali-resistant screws (screws made to go through cement board). Tape the seams and lay the tile, etc...

Cement board is only $9.00 per sheet, too. It is just how it's been done for a couple decades now... ;)

Changing over to newer stuff.. not that schulter-kerdi is that new... is never easy and it simply doesn't look as strong or consistent as the cement board, so I'm stickin' with cement board. But I am sure the schulter-kerdi. will be fine for you too... ;)

I am interested in trying their shower pan/drain system someday... now that looks great!

PS: Those 2"x4" on 12" centers for the floor...they are PRESSURE-TREATED right...??

Good day!

pare_john · May 21, 2009, 02:14 PM

No they are not pressure treated, but a vapor barrier was laid before installing them. I am aware that you never want to install wood straight onto the concrete.

I am going with the kerdi system due to the fact it is only 3mm thick. With cement board I would be losing some height. Also my shower has already been installed and I therefore can not build up the floor much higher

pare_john · Jun 29, 2009, 07:52 PM

I am back.

Well the floor is tiled with 13 X 13 porcelain tiles. My question is as to what the best grout to use is. My spacing is 1/4" so i am assuming a sanded grout. But I have seen modified and unmodifed grout. Which should i use?

My shower will be tiled this weekend using a 10 X 13 ceramic tile. What thinset should i be using? Modified or unmodified? or will both work? My walls are fibrerock aqua tough tile backerboard. on their website they say to use a modified thinset. but I have heard that with the size of tile that i am using a nonmodified should be used. Please confirm. Also what grout should i be using for the shower? i will be leaving a 1/8" gap so I would assume an unsanded grout.

Please give me your input.

Thanks guys