[pare_john]

The pipe nthat you are showing to use a 2" long sweep 90 is the existing washer drain pipe which i do not have access to as it seems to run under the floor in the next room to connect with the 3".

My question is if I can keep the set up the way it is and just branch the toilet off the 3" to its new location. Also where you have placed the toilet is very far off the finished wall.

[pare_john]

Here is what I was thinking, I will use some 45's to move the sink/wet vent line over so that it will give more room for the toilet. Then the toilet will just branch off the 3".

I would like to know if this setup will work. Pretty much everything remains the same except for the new location of the toilet. Also now there will be an additional vent coming before all the fixtures from the washers new location.

[massplumber2008]

My toilet pipe is exactly where you drew your toilet pipe in the last pic. (should be 12" from rough stud as mentioned)...;) I'm a stinker for detail!

In both of the last pics. you are installing the toilet drain without a vent. That is, you cannot install the washing machine pipe using the 3" pipe that goes to the old toilet without adding a vent for the toilet. In this case, it is best to install the lavatory vent using a 3"x2" wye and run pipes as drawn below.

I know it's a stinker...but this is how wet venting works. You cannot discharge a washing machine past an unvented toilet... it will cause all kinds of bubbling/gurgling... promise!

Otherwise, you could install a wye inline of the washing machine drain and then install an individual vent for the shower.

Let me know what you think...

.

[pare_john]

Would this work?

Also when you say the toilet drain should be 12" of the framing is that to the center of the drain pipe? Cause that is how it is now in its old location

[massplumber2008]

Sorry... it will not work. As noted in the drawing below, you need to disconnect and cap one pipe (see circle), and you will notice that the way you have drawn all together will not work in terms of proper plumbing fittings.

I drew it up at my last drawing as fittings would work (posted pic. Again for comparison)... ;)

I also posted another alternative piping arrangement.. see bottom pic.

The 12" from rough stud to center of drain works perfect.

[massplumber2008]

Check out the pic. Below. I noticed the cleanout is not a cleanout but another backflow valve. Remove the cover and check to see if flapper is present. If it is this fitting acts to prevent backflow and acts as a cleanout when accessed through the cover.

Just F.Y.I.

[pare_john]

Thanks for the pics, I will be going with your diagram in the last pic, it will work the best for me. However the closet I can get the toilet to the framing is 14" so I am 2" off. Will an offset flange correct this?

Once again I owe you a debt of gratitude. You are been very helpful and patient with my questions.

[speedball1]

Once again I owe you a debt of gratitude. You are been very helpful and patient with my questions.

John, You got advice from one of the best! Good luck, Tom

[massplumber2008]

Thanks guys!

John... the pipes aren't deep enough to use an offset flange. Best answer here will be to purchase a 14" rough in toilet. They are available everywhere, but cost more and most have to be ordered unless you purchase from a local plumbing supply company! Why can't you get closer... curious..

Lastly, don't forget to use long sweep fittings for moving that lavatory drain pipe and when you come out of the ground if possible... :)

[pare_john]

I will be having a subfloor that will be close to 3" off of the concrete that you see in my pictures. Would this be enough to fit the offset flange?

I can't get any closer as I am limited to the amount of room to place my first 3x3x3 wye.

The way I am going to do it is as follows. put a 3x3x3 wye inline with existing 3" right off that I will have a 3x3x2 wye that will pick up the shower. Then right off that wye will be a 3" elbow to go to the flange.

[massplumber2008]

It's close... purchase the offset flange and dry fit it to see if it will work. If not, you can buy the 14" rough toilet. They are only about $50-00 to $75.00 more than a regular toilet.

Otherwise, all sounds correct... be sure to cap the line between the old toilet line and the old shower pipe... ;)

Finally, you could cut the 45 back a bit more, install a new 45 and then install a street 3" wye...(see picture..can only purchase at a local plumbing supply company). They also sell a street 3"x2" wye and a street 90... ;) All these should get you to within 12"!

Post a final pic. When you're done... OK?

Good luck...

[pare_john]

How much depth is needed to use an offset flange?

I can not cut back any further as the pipe goes under a supporting wall where I have no access.

[massplumber2008]

Depends on the offset flange. Best to purchase a street 90, a regular 90 and an offset flange at a local home supply store and dry fit them and see how it works with new floor height.

[pare_john]

when you say they sell a street 3x2 wye does that mean the one of the 3" is straight pipe(no collar?) Also do they make a steet 3x3x3 where the arm in the wye is flush?

Also if using an offset flange could i not leave a larger opening in the concrete around the 3" to give me more depth for the offset flange

[massplumber2008]

When I say street 3"x2 it is same as the 3" street wye I posted at post #31... the bottom of the fitting has no hub.

They do not make a 3x3x3 with flush arm.

Yes...leave extra room around the concrete if using the offset flange. Even if using a regular flange you need to leave room so the flange can set down into concrete... although in your case with higher floor it may not be necessary.

[pare_john]

Thanks again for you help. It is people like you that make home renovations for the do it your selfer more doable.

I will post pics once I start to lay the new pipe

[massplumber2008]

Glad to help...

Remember grasshopper that your work represents my teachings... be precise and make me proud!

*bows respectfully*... :rolleyes:

Look forward to the pictures... :D

[pare_john]

OK well all the plumbing is down and glued. Unfortunately the closet I can get the toilet to the studded wall is 15.5 inch. I oredered a 14 inch toilet today, so that will still leave me with 1.5" of gap. I purchased an offset flange but it will stick up past the subfloor 1 3/4 " My question is can I cut the collar down on both the flange and the closet pipe. The coolars are 1.5" and on the glue it says that you need at least 1/3 of pipe insertion into the collar. So I was going to cut down each collar by about an inch. This will give me 2 more inches of depth for the offset flange.

Also I am figuring with the tile laid I will gain more height as well. Can you tell me an estimation of how much height you gain from sub floor to finished surface floor when laying tile?

Do they make offset flanges with a male end?

Also if you guys have anymore suggestions please let me know.

Thank you

[massplumber2008]

hi John... did you use the street wye fittings?

I didn't say so... but I have taken an inch off each hub before and all worked out fine!

They do not make a male ended offset flange that I know of.

From concrete floor you should plan on about an additional 3/8 to 1/2" max if you are using 12"x12" tiles. Here, is 1/4" thinset mortar compressed a little by the tile which is typically 1/4" to 3/8" depending on tile chosen.

Pick out the tile first to be sure you install flange at correct height!

I'll think on other suggestions...

MARK

[massplumber2008]

John... don't know if this will help, but if you rotate a street 90 to a 45 degree angle then maybe this flange can help. See picture. It is a 45 degree flange... ;)

These will only be available at a plumbing supply store.