Check out some similar questions!

randy1212 · Mar 19, 2009, 04:51 AM

Thanks a lot guys I am getting a new switch today and I am sure it will take care of it. Thanks a lot for your help

randy1212 · Mar 19, 2009, 09:25 AM

Switch didn't work on it either... anyone have any ideas

ballengerb1 · Mar 19, 2009, 09:40 AM

Are you talking about a new replacement switch not working also. By not working do you mean you tested the switch with your tester and it failed or you installed it and the trctor still won't start?

randy1212 · Mar 19, 2009, 09:42 AM

Yes I put it on the tractor and there is still a no start the only way I can start it is jump the silinoid this is so flustering to me

ballengerb1 · Mar 19, 2009, 09:49 AM

Did all other switches test out as OK? It would be a odd coincidence for 2 to be bad at once but worth asking the question.

randy1212 · Mar 19, 2009, 09:50 AM

Yes I did the contnuity test on all the switches and they were all working

ballengerb1 · Mar 19, 2009, 09:58 AM

Solenoid is about all there is left. I pulled this from the net rather than retyping myself. "Bench-testing a starter solenoid is a relatively simple procedure, and while solenoid styles vary from engine to engine, all solenoids have two large terminal studs and two small terminal studs."

Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the battery. Next remove all leads from the solenoid terminal studs. There is no need to remove the solenoid from the engine. Connect an ohmmeter—calibrated on the Rx1 scale—to the two large terminal studs (1 and 2 above, in both illustrations). The ohmmeter should indicate no continuity, because no power is running through it. Replace the solenoid if any other reading is noted.

Using jumper cables, attach a 12-volt battery to the two small solenoid studs (3 and 4, above)—polarity is not important. You should hear a click as (or if) the solenoid engages, and the ohmmeter should indicate continuity. This is because the solenoid is a high-amperage switch that when energized shows a closed circuit. Replace the solenoid if any other reading is noted.

When you are finished, replace all the leads and connect the negative battery cable last."

Stratmando · Mar 19, 2009, 12:13 PM

I thought he got starter to turn by jumping at solenoid, I was thinking he meant jumping the start terminal to the Large positive, that would tell the solenoid is working, I'm thinking there is a second hot for the ignition/start, not the headlight circuit.

randy1212, did you simulat the key ate the solenoid, or did you jump the 2 largest connections(Battert and Starter)?

randy1212 · Mar 19, 2009, 12:20 PM

I think I am done it runs fine starting it off the solenoid maybe I can just put a start toggle switch on it? Wow this is unbelievable

Stratmando · Mar 19, 2009, 02:32 PM

If you did all test, and saw voltage leaving ignition switch in the start position, and you can provide power to solenoid start wire, then it can only be the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid.
Be careful about being in gear and or engaged when jumping at solenoid.
REALLY NEED to know, are you jumping large conductors, or are you jumping to start terminal? These are important questions to determine which way to go?

randy1212 · Mar 19, 2009, 06:25 PM

Sorry guys I found it. I did not test the foot safety switch right. Wow I learned a lot. Here. Thanks a lot for your help I learned a lot.

Stratmando · Mar 20, 2009, 05:42 AM

Thanks for hanging in there. Many would have given up. Take Care

ballengerb1 · Mar 20, 2009, 10:23 AM

Glad this worked out for you. As I mentioned earlier the safety switches usually go bad before the ignition. The brake/clutch switch is used more than the other 2 so it makes sense to go bad first.