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gtorn · Mar 3, 2009, 05:50 PM

I have a 2005 Dodge Durango-Magnum 4wd with 105,000 miles on it. All of a sudden it was stalling when I came to a stop and it seemed like the transmission was talking a bit of gas to take off. Ran some STP gas treatment and a fresh tank of gas, problem did not go away. Then I got a check engine light. Took it to Auto Zone and they gave me the following computer print out. TRANSAXLE CONTROL SYSTEM FAULT.. ECM received a signal that the TCM has a fault... possible causes, shorted or open circuit within transaxle, failure of TCM. They also said it "could be"-The PCM has determined that the voltage signal from the transmission fluid pressure sensor/switch "A" is out of range. They thought this was less likely. Transmission fluid is right on according to the dipstck and is the right color and not burnt.
My online reading shows the TCM is mostly likely the problem. First off where is it and is there a simple way to reset it?
I have had zero problems with this Durango, so it is expected there would be something going wrong soon.
Suggestions?
I am so-so under the hood, can do simple stuff, and can swap parts if I get the proper info. Back in the old days (60's-70's) I did transmission work, some engine rebuilding, alternator, exhaust, brakes... but with all the stuff under the hood today, I do not go quite as deep.
Thank you for any help or suggestions...
Mike:cool:

CaptainRich · Mar 4, 2009, 08:15 AM

Did the zone tell you what code(s) actually stored?
I think you may have a torque converter that is sticking on.
Find out exactly what DTC was stored and let us know.

Originally Posted by gtorn

Ran some STP gas treatment and a fresh tank of gas, problem did not go away. Thank you for any help or suggestions...
Mike:cool:

That's because the stuff that goes into the tank is only good for keeping clean injector from getting as gunked up as possible.
That and cleaning your wallet!
The stuff can't properly clean the fuel system like it needs to. If it were harsh enough for that, it would be too harsh for the fuel system components, i.e. tank, pump and sender...
If you suspect the injectors need cleaning, take it to a professional who can attach the cleaner adapter to the fuel rail directly.

this8384 · Mar 4, 2009, 08:57 AM

Like CaptainRich said, tell us what codes are stored in the computer. Don't listen to AutoZones suggestions of what they think it is; I had a customer go to AutoZone once and was told he needed a fuel injector when the issue was that he had a vacuum leak.

gtorn · Mar 13, 2009, 03:57 AM

The check engine light has not been on but the promblem continued. Not sure if they could re-check the codes without it.
I switched from AWD to 4W and drove for a few minutes. Swiched back and the problem was gone. It has been like that for over a week. Now however, it still stalls when I stop for a light or traffic. Not all the time, but about 50% of the time. I watch the tach drop from about 600 rmp to zero and the times it doesn't stall it jumps up to about 900 and then back to about 600. It seems like it needs to idle a bit higher. Starts right back up. No idiot lights are on at all until the stall, then the brake light comes on and goes out when I start it. Any ideas? :confused: Thanks

this8384 · Mar 13, 2009, 07:22 AM

Yes, they can still get the codes even if the light isn't on. We'll need codes to get started; it's much harder to diagnose over the Internet without those. Let us know :)

gtorn · Mar 18, 2009, 05:41 PM

Originally Posted by this8384

Yes, they can still get the codes even if the light isn't on. We'll need codes to get started; it's much harder to diagnose over the Internet without those. Let us know :)

It appears the first problem is no longer showing up. There were two codes and this wasn't one of them and the print out is different now.

The current checks says it is an EGR problem. (Code P0406).

Thanks again for your help/input

ang_lovinlife · May 11, 2011, 12:30 PM

I have a 2005 and it stalled coming to a stop and did not throw any codes for almost a year - then it got worse.. then it finally threw a code -- ERG VALVE.. got that replaced for about $100 and now years later - not one stall! Best of Luck as I know it's a scary thing to have your car stall out!