[paulkramer]

To think I dumped my Intrigue because its headlights flickered...

Honda A/C compressor with only 80K miles stopped working. When I turn the A/C on, nothing happens - other than the instrument panel A/C indicator light turning on.

No sound of the compressor engaging - and it used to be a very noticeable sound - no fans coming on, no change in engine load.

Bad clutch? Empty of refrigerant? It was pretty cold last summer, hard to believe it would be empty now, unless something happened to a seal somewhere...

Could the entire compressor be shot?

[paulkramer]

Oh - about a week ago I noticed a barely perceptible squeal that changed pitch momentarily when I turned the A/C off and on...

[paulkramer]

Will it harm anything to drive the car with the A/C out of commission?

If it were seized, wouldn't it squeal like a pig and even cause the engine to die from the excess drag?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Check compressor clutch relay, located on a bracket on the right side of the condenser.

If the problem persists, check the compressor clutch connector and clutch. Since you live in Michigan, the clutch connector may be corroded--clean and apply dielectric grease.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It's likely not engaging. If it were, you could feel it. The compressor did fail on my 1993 Civic at 20,000 miles--had to install a new one.

[paulkramer]

Thanks, txgreasemonkey!

Since I have to go to work tomorrow, before I can examine it, will it cause any harm to drive the car?

I'm thinking no - since it's not making noise or putting drag on the engine.

The clutches wear out just like the clutch between the engine and transmission!

[paulkramer]

All these components - starter, a/c, p/s - I think they're all made by suppliers.

I hope the engine wasn't outsourced!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It shouldn't. I don't think the compessor is even engaging.

[paulkramer]

No - I'm positive it's not engaging. As recently as four days ago compressor engagement was VERY noticeable.

No more noticeable than when I bought the car, just noticeable.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You should be safe to drive it.

[paulkramer]

Could a leak, causing very low refrigerant level also cause the compressor to not engage?

[paulkramer]

And if the refrigerant is low, should I chalk it up to the car's age (6 1/2 years, 81K miles) or inspect it for a leak?

[this8384]

If the system doesn't have enough freon in it, it can kick on and off constantly or not turn on at all. With air conditioning, anything's possible. A pinhole leak can lose all the freon in a week's time. I'd have that checked first.

[paulkramer]

Thanks.

I'll add some refrigerant first - cheapest and hopefully most spot on solution.

I tried it again today and the compressor came on - once. Tried it again and it wouldn't come on. So, it may be the refrigerant after all.

[paulkramer]

Damn - apparently adding R134 not such a good idea:

The reason for this is that a completely depleted refrigerant system has no pressure to keep air and moisture from coming in through wherever the refrigerant leaked out. Air and moisture are possibly the two biggest enemies of an air conditioning system. The ways in which they can do harm are outside the scope of this article, but suffice it to say that it is NOT ok to have a significant amount of either in the lines. The receiver/dryer unit MUST be replaced in a case like this as you can almost guarantee that it has absorbed enough moisture to be completely useless, and before refilling the system it MUST be evacuated (pulling a vacuum on the system, effectively removing nearly all air and moisture from inside) with the proper equipment, which few DIYers are likely to have access or knowledge to use. Let a professional handle it, and you may get away with paying for a fixed leak and an evacuate/recharge. Try to fix it yourself, and a few months down the road you might wind up having to pay for the same evacuate/recharge service, plus replacement of a seized compressor, as well as a new condenser, evaporator, and expansion valve/orifice tube because the compressor sent shards of metal throughout the entire system when it died.

[this8384]

Have it checked for leaks first. If there is one, get it repaired and have the system flushed; also replace the receiver dryer/accumulator and orifice tube(s) if your vehicle has them. Those are the 2 filters, so to speak, in the A/C system.

Like what posted, contaminants can get into the system through the smallest holes. Once they're in, they can cause damage if they get past the filters.

[paulkramer]

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Check compressor clutch relay, located on a bracket on the right side of the condenser.

If the problem persists, check the compressor clutch connector and clutch. Since you live in Michigan, the clutch connector may be corroded--clean and apply dielectric grease.

Aren't fuses "checkable" visually!

[paulkramer]

Have it checked for leaks first. If there is one, get it repaired and have the system flushed; also replace the receiver dryer/accumulator and orifice tube(s) if your vehicle has them. Those are the 2 filters, so to speak, in the A/C system.

Thanks again - so much for the $10 can of R134 fix!

[this8384]

I agree; A/C work sucks. They charge too much for the parts and the systems are ridiculous to work on sometimes. Good luck :)

[paulkramer]

How are leaks found - with a dye?