Check out some similar questions!

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 03:44 PM

Originally Posted by this8384

I agree; A/C work sucks. They charge too much for the parts and the systems are ridiculous to work on sometimes. Good luck :)

To me it's worse than engine work

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 03:47 PM

Oh, this is interesting - the receiver you speak about - hondapartsunlimited lists OEM part for $70 - $90

RockAuto has an AC Delco version for $12...

Am I missing something here!

this8384 · Feb 20, 2009, 03:49 PM

Nope, just smarter than a lot of people :)

Yes, they inject dye into the system, put some freon into it and let it circulate. The dye can be seen with an ultraviolet light; it glows neon green so you can pinpoint exactly where the leak is.

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 03:52 PM

Originally Posted by this8384

Nope, just smarter than a lot of people :)

Yes, they inject dye into the system, put some freon into it and let it circulate. The dye can be seen with an ultraviolet light; it glows neon green so you can pinpoint exactly where the leak is.

Who's smarter? You? :)

Which of these is the orifice tube you speak of? I see the receiver/dryer (7), there is also a valve which has to be included with the receiver/dryer, but can also be purchased separately. Rock sells them discretely - so if only the receiver is needed and not the valve, there's a HUGE savings there.

http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/s...itch=&hidIrno=

this8384 · Feb 20, 2009, 03:54 PM

It's a small piece, approximately 3-4" long. It's usually located in one of the lines.

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 03:55 PM

Do you see it in the diagram - sorry, forgot to include the link initially

this8384 · Feb 20, 2009, 03:56 PM

No, I don't see it there. It may not even have one, to be honest.

Just make sure you replace the receiver drier if the system has been opened. It's cheap insurance.

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 03:59 PM

Thanks. :)

That's it then? No need to replace the valve on top of the receiver or the "receiver pipe"?

That - and the shop fees for evacuating and cleaning and refilling the system - of course. :(

this8384 · Feb 20, 2009, 04:01 PM

That valve may come with it. In the diagram, it's #12, correct? The bracket for #7 shows that #12 comes with the whole part.

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 04:03 PM

Yes, but if I buy from Rock Auto - or similar - the valve isn't included

It's a ~ $25 valve, if there's no need to buy it I won't!

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 04:04 PM

Sorry, looks like I might be mixing parts.

Honda sells it and calls it a "switch".

Rock sells an "expansion valve".

IDK if they are the same thing or not.

Jlesnik33 · Feb 20, 2009, 04:05 PM

I would say that the compressor is shot if it is not making any noise. And if it needs to be replaced depending on the kind of system that you have than the accumulator or receiver dryer needs to be replaced as well. And if the system is low on refridgerant then there might be a leak somewhere but its most likely in the compressor because that's where most leaks are. So I would tell you that you would probably have to get a new compressor.

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 04:07 PM

That's not very happy news...

It engaged once or twice today - it won't engage if it has low pressure.

Isn't it normal - or semi-normal - for a 6 1/2 yr. old R134 system to leak?

R134 has a very slippery molecular structure, much smaller than R12.

this8384 · Feb 20, 2009, 04:08 PM

#12 in the diagram is the air conditioning switch. That could also be the problem. If the switch is bad, it could be kicking off the A/C right after it kicks on.

The expansion valve is seperate; I don't think that's what #12 is.

And it's very normal for a 6-year-old system to leak :) O-rings shrink and crack, condensors get holes in them from road debris... anything is a possibility.

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 04:14 PM

Worth noting that at least one other RSX owner reported that a dealer replaced his compressor when the leak was in fact caused by a bad O-ring.

Hence I think a leak test is probably a cost-effective choice...

this8384 · Feb 20, 2009, 04:15 PM

Yup indeedy... check for leaks. If nothing comes up, I'd try that switch.

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 04:17 PM

Originally Posted by this8384

Yup indeedy...check for leaks. If nothing comes up, I'd try that switch.

Thanks again, 8384. :)

Jlesnik33 · Feb 20, 2009, 04:18 PM

It could also be a bad cycling clutch which can cause compressor failure and replacing a compressor clutch is a very common repair.

Jlesnik33 · Feb 20, 2009, 04:25 PM

All systems leak over a period but if they are in good condition they should only leak about half a pound per year and the most common place for leaks is at the compressor hose connections the best way to test for leaks is with an electronic leak detector. You also said it won't engage if it has low pressure so that can be bad high and low pressure cutoff switches

paulkramer · Feb 20, 2009, 04:25 PM

Originally Posted by Jlesnik33

It could also be a bad cycling clutch which can cause compressor failure and replacing a compressor clutch is a very common repair.

I've heard that too - but I was also told the clutch is electro-magnetic - how does it go bad? It's not like a transmission/engine clutch that wears down with use...