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    23sma's Avatar
    23sma Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 27, 2009, 09:22 PM
    Tub surround installation: adhesive difficulty
    Been attempting to install an aciflex tub surround... using Dap tub surround adhesive. Walls are drywall, previous tub surround has been removed and walls sanded pretty flat

    PROBLEM: one panel telegraphed the adhesive trail the nest morning, other panels don't want to stick (the adhesive seems to have little tack)

    Am following all directions... ie put on adhesive, put on panel, remove panel and let sit for 5 minutes... then when put back on , it won't stay... or in one case, after lots of pushing and holding, it did stay, but adhesive had telegraphed by the next morning...

    Room is 'room temperature"

    HELP!!
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #2

    Jan 27, 2009, 10:07 PM

    Walls really should have been dead flat for the simple reason the new adhesive needs to be thicker to over come the any other old raised areas. When you sanded did you wipe down the walls and get is free of dust. if not that in itself would stop the sticking of the adhesive on drywall. When you say telegraphed the next morning. Is this because the day light hit in more and now its noticeable?
    I personally like Liquid nail construction adhesive to glue anything to a wall. When that is done timing is important too much glue not pushed out causes a bump. To little glue doesn't work
    The let the panel sit for 5 min I feel was to long. Liquid nail doesn't require that.
    Since its still fresh I would start over and forget The Dap adhesive and use Construction adhesive that are rated for moisture ext.
    I will probably get some flack here But I totally like to use pure silicone for many adhesives. It handles all moisture and doesn't dry out.
    Silicone is one if the toughest "caulk" to get off many things. Its stays rubbery and it stick to basically anything.


    Signed 21 Boat

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    23sma's Avatar
    23sma Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 27, 2009, 11:13 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    Walls really should have been dead flat for the simple reason the the new adhesive needs to be thicker to over come the any other old raised areas. When you sanded did you wipe down the walls and get is free of dust.? if not that in itself would stop the sticking of the adhesive on drywall. When you say telegraphed the next morning. Is this because the day light hit in more and now its noticeable?
    I personally like Liquid nail construction adhesive to glue anything to a wall. When that is done timing is important to much glue not pushed out causes a bump. To little glue doesn't work
    The let the panel sit for 5 min i feel was to long. Liquid nail doesn't require that.
    Since its still fresh I would start over and forget The Dap adhesive and use Construction adhesive that are rated for moisture ext.
    I will probably get some flack here But I totally like to use pure silicone for many adhesives. It handles all moisture and doesn't dry out.
    Silicone is one if the toughest "caulk" to get off of many things. Its stays rubbery and it stick to basically anything.


    Signed 21 Boat

    If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
    Answer excellent... someone else -off site-also suggested silicone... will try that... by the way, had dusted... another friend said that he found he always had to brace panels for glue to stick... thank you again for your very full reply
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #4

    Jan 27, 2009, 11:21 PM

    Good choice I didn't mention bracing the panels I figured you did that. I also use duct tape on the top section to hold that back and on any side I can.
    Brace gently it's a matter of matched dead wait on the panels so the sit naturally so to speak
    The pattern I like to use to glue that is spot blobs so to speak in a pattern about one foot squared and not a continues bead. This help stop the strip/bead raised look and keep that chance down. Think of it as felt pads to keep the "glass" form getting starched form the surface its laying on. The pattern will also help adjust in the deflection of the panel and the wall behind it. And the whole panel has a contact in all equal areas.


    Signed 21 Boat

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    23sma's Avatar
    23sma Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 27, 2009, 11:25 PM
    Many thanks again... we'll see what tomorrow brings!



    Quote Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    Good choice I didn't mention bracing the panels i figured you did that. I also use duct tape on the top section to hold that back and on any side i can.
    brace gently its a matter of matched dead wait on the panels so the sit naturally so to speak


    Signed 21 Boat

    If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
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