Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #21

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:02 PM
    That sounds like it. Go to Advance Auto Parts website and double click the pictures:

    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...=Fuel%20Filter
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #22

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:06 PM
    I am not sure right now, but I think the Purolator or the Fram looks like it.

    What I see sits right up front.

    Am I correct in this?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #23

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:06 PM
    I'm not familiar with your Cavalier. It would be best if you had a Haynes Manual from Autozone to assist you.

    Did you see a label under the hood for what plugs you should use?
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #24

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:08 PM
    No, where do I look? There is nothing on the hood itself.

    If I am looking at the engine the only label I see is on the left side (passenger) where it told me the ZAA 2.2L

    I also saw some oil leakage around the plugs. But honestly, what do I know?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #25

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:14 PM
    Does your Cavalier use oil? If the leakage is from the valve covers, which oozes down on the plugs, you could take a wrench and carefully tighten the valve cover bolts. Wipe the area down and see if the leak persists.
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #26

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:17 PM
    The oil level seems to stay steady, we rarely have to add oil. I just saw some today when hubby checked the air filter and thought that I might be leaking some.

    Maybe I am over reacting with everything else that is going on.

    But it really scares me to be on a quiet TENN road by myself. I keep thinking of Deliverance. LOL
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #27

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:19 PM
    I would call a local Chevy dealer tomorrow and ask them which exact plugs came in your Cavalier. I can come up with an acceptable ACDelco plug, but I would like to see you install what came in your car.

    Nurses need to carefully document what they do with a patient. I want you to start maintaining meticulous records on what and when work is performed on your car. A simple ledger will do--Date, Mileage, Work Performed.
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #28

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:21 PM
    Well, I bought it in Michigan and now live in Tennessee, does that matter?

    Are there different brands of AC Delco plugs?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #29

    Aug 1, 2006, 08:36 PM
    No. Were you the original owner? ACDelco is the brand GM uses, but I would like to know what plug number was installed with the car. It likely is ACDelco O.E. Platinum Spark Plugs, Part No.41-928. These go for $5.99 each at Autozone.

    Do you know whether your plugs have ever been changed before?

    Here's the problem with you changing the plugs yourself. First, plugs in aluminum head engines need to be removed when the engine is "stone cold." Otherwise, you really increase the risk of stripping the aluminum threads. Since your existing plugs have been in the engine for a long time, it increases the possibility that the plugs could seize in the head. Platinum plugs should be removed and reinstalled every two years to prevent seizure. Second, I'm not sure you have the tools to do the job. Frequently a small pea-size dab of antiseize compound should be applied to the lower threads to help prevent seizure. Because of this, I think it's best to have a mechanic or your husband do the job for you, after the engine is cold.

    Remember to put 34 psi in your tires, before you head back to school. Your spare probably requires 60 psi, if it's the standard donut tire.
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #30

    Aug 2, 2006, 09:06 AM
    Okay, want to go out and check the plug #s for you. I think there is a rubber covering on them, do I just lift that covering and read the #s?

    And yes, I believe they are the original plugs.

    Thanks for the psi info, I will get that checked today.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #31

    Aug 2, 2006, 09:10 AM
    Grab the base of the boot, gently twist, and pull one off. Don't pull on the wire itself.
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #32

    Aug 2, 2006, 09:17 AM
    Okay, be right back.

    Okay, they will not gently twist off. I am afraid to pull too hard, but it feels as though the boot does not want to budge.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #33

    Aug 2, 2006, 09:29 AM
    Yes, they can be pretty difficult to get off. I spray the inside of the boot with silicone spray to make it easier to get them off next time.

    Probably best to let your husband or a mechanic do it. I really think new plugs should make a HUGE difference in how your car runs. Get 4 ACDelco O.E. Platinum 41928 Sparkplugs from Autozone for $5.99 ea. along with the Deutsch FF4508 Fuel Filter for $6.99.
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #34

    Aug 2, 2006, 09:37 AM
    Cool, will call the hubby and let him know, hopefully we can get this done in the next day or so. I will buy the parts and have mechanic put them in. The mechanic is our neighbor and a good friend, so should be no problem.

    Thank you so much for your help, it is great to have someone like you on this site.

    Too bad you are too far away, I would buy you lunch!! ;)
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #35

    Aug 2, 2006, 09:40 AM
    You are welcome. Please give me an update on how your car runs afterwards.
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #36

    Aug 2, 2006, 09:43 AM
    Most certainly!! I will keep you posted. Thanks a bunch again.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #37

    Aug 2, 2006, 11:38 AM
    Here's an offer of free conventional Maxlife Engine Oil from Valvoline:

    http://www.valvoline.com/maxlife/microsite.asp

    If you buy Valvoline Synthetic MaxLife Engine Oil, Valvoline will refund you $17.50 for 5 quarts. I would go for the synthetic, if you can afford to at this time. Offer expires 8/26/06.

    Here's another good deal on Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic Engine Oil from O'Reilly Auto Parts, which are all over TN:

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Publications.do (Go to page 3)

    6x$3.99=$23.94-$15.00=$8.94/6=Only $1.49/qt. after rebate.
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #38

    Aug 2, 2006, 12:21 PM
    Thank you, will definitely use it!!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #39

    Aug 2, 2006, 02:18 PM
    After you get your car running well and you know it is a "keeper," have your mechanic flush your brake system with Valvoline SynPower Brake Fluid. In the meantime, you could get a battery squeeze bulb ($2.50), clean the area around the top of the master cylinder reservoir, open the cap, and suck out some of the old brake fluid. Don't take it so low that you get air in the system. Then, just refill the reservoir to the "Max Level" line and replace the cap. You will be amazed how much better your brakes will be. The pulsating action of the ABS, and the glycol ether base of the fluid, will start to mix with the old fluid immediately. A 12 oz. container of brake fluid will be more than enough for what you will do. Buy 32 oz. if you decide to flush the whole system.
    J_9's Avatar
    J_9 Posts: 40,298, Reputation: 5646
    Expert
     
    #40

    Aug 2, 2006, 02:28 PM
    I really don't have a problem with the ABS other than the light coming on and off.

    Mechanic said it had something to do with codes. When he checked he said there was nothing wrong, so he "turned the code off." This was a while ago and it just recently started again.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

1995 Chevy Cavalier Computer [ 6 Answers ]

I was wondering if there was a way to remove the computer from the car and still be able to keep the engine running. From what I understand the ingition module will be able to fire properly (I may have been misinformed), but will the fuel injection system be able to run without the computer? ...

96 chevy cavalier leaking head gasket need advice [ 6 Answers ]

My 1996 chevy cavalier is leaking around the head gasket its not really bad but it is noticeable will Bar's radiator stop leak help me? Will it hurt my motor? I'm afraid it could mix with the oil and cause damage what do you think? So far as I can tell it is only leaking from the outside of the...

Cavalier Noises [ 1 Answers ]

Some people I know are giving me a 1986 Chevrolet Cavalier, I don't know if it's 2 or 4 door, VIN #, or miles on it. They tell me that it is driveable but makes a little clunk noise when first put in reverse, but once it starts moving the noise is gone. They think it's the CV boot. Can anyone...

97 cavalier dash removal [ 0 Answers ]

I need help removeing the dash on my 97 cavalier, I got all the screws but one, the one right or the airbag, I can't find it, please help

Chevrolet Cavalier 2002 [ 2 Answers ]

All of a sudden, out of the blue, my car starts squeaking and creaking. Sounds like the front end is going to fall out. It is specifically when the tires go over a bump. Doesn't get worse when turning or pulling into my driveway. Does it need a lube? Is it the shocks? Is it the chassis? Help.


View more questions Search