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jli_2008 · Jan 3, 2009, 07:35 PM

Happy New Year everybody!

I just bought a second hand mastercraft snowblower, it worked all fine when I tested it with the seller. Unfortunately, I transported the snowblower by put it side sit in my SUV rather than upritht.

After arrived home, I noticed all oil were leaked out, I just added new oil and tried to started the machine. It could not be started by pull rope at all; I then try to start it with electronic starter, I can hear the motor sound when I push the starter butten, but the motor was fully stopped when I release the starter butten.

Can anybody kindly help me to analyze what's wrong with my snowblower, hopefully it's not a serious problem and could by fixed by DIY.

I appreicate for all your answers in advance!

Thanks a lot
John

KISS · Jan 3, 2009, 07:41 PM

Nothing. Operator error. Don't store on side.

Get some spray carb cleaner. Take out the plug. Spray carb cleaner in the plug opening. Put rag over opening. Crank until clear.

I'd change the plug, so your starting at a known conditition, but you can clean the plug with carb cleaner too.

Make sure the oil doesn't smell like gas. I'd drain and change for the same reason. Get snowblower formulated oil. Sears has it.

Incidentally, don't use starter fluid in small engines. Use spray carb cleaner as starter fluid.

jli_2008 · Jan 3, 2009, 07:53 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Nothing. Operator error. Don't store on side.

Get some spray carb cleaner. Take out the plug. Spray carb cleaner in the plug opening. Put rag over opening. crank until clear.

I'd change the plug, so your starting at a known conditition, but you can clean the plug with carb cleaner too.

Make sure the oil doesn't smell like gas. I'd drain and change for the same reason. Get snowblower formulated oil. Sears has it.

Incidently, don't use starter fluid in small engines. Use spray carb cleaner as starter fluid.

Hi, thanks for your quick answer. Sorry, my engine knowledge is almost "0". I have further question regarding your answer
1. I think the plug you mentioned is Spark Plug, is that correct
2. What is the spray carb cleaner, where can I got it? How should I choose it?
3. How to use the Spray carb cleaner? Shall I spray to both the plug and inside the plug cap?

Thanks
Regards
John

KISS · Jan 3, 2009, 08:39 PM

1. Spark plug. Plugs are gapped with a gapping tool. The size of the gap should be listed in an application manual that the hardware store has. Same place you'll buy a spark plug.

2. Carb cleaner in a spray form. e.g. Go to AutoZone.com - Get in the Zone! and search for ST-253

3. Do the rag thing for this time because you put the engine on it's side.

4. If then engine has trouble starting because of cold etc. You can remove plug. Spray a little carb cleaner in the hole and replace plug and try to start.

Look at the sticky in the beginning of this section for learning how to change oil in a lawnmower. Same principles apply.

This should help even more: http://www.handymanlyness.com/archiv...intenance.html

jli_2008 · Jan 4, 2009, 03:28 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

1. Spark plug. Plugs are gapped with a gapping tool. The size of the gap should be listed in an application manual that the hardware store has. Same place you'll buy a spark plug.

2. Carb cleaner in a spray form. e.g. Goto AutoZone.com - Get in the Zone! and search for ST-253

3. Do the rag thing for this time because you put the engine on it's side.

4. If then engine has trouble starting because of cold etc. You can remove plug. Spray a little carb cleaner in the hole and replace plug and try to start.

Look at the sticky in the beginning of this section for learning how to change oil in a lawnmower. Same principles apply.

This should help even more: Snowblower Maintenance - Changing Engine Oil, Cleaning The Spark Plug

Thanks for the detail guide. I have cleaned the plug followed your guide, but the engine still could not be started. Attached is my cleaned plug, do you think it need to be replaced?
Meanwhile, I read another article which said the plug hole should be kept opened for a couple of hrs to let the gas gone, I'll wait for another couple of hrs and try again. It'll be greate and appreciated if you can take a look of the pic of my plug and let me know should it be replace.

Thanks a lot
Regards
John

jli_2008 · Jan 4, 2009, 03:38 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

1. Spark plug. Plugs are gapped with a gapping tool. The size of the gap should be listed in an application manual that the hardware store has. Same place you'll buy a spark plug.

2. Carb cleaner in a spray form. e.g. Goto AutoZone.com - Get in the Zone! and search for ST-253

3. Do the rag thing for this time because you put the engine on it's side.

4. If then engine has trouble starting because of cold etc. You can remove plug. Spray a little carb cleaner in the hole and replace plug and try to start.

Look at the sticky in the beginning of this section for learning how to change oil in a lawnmower. Same principles apply.

This should help even more: Snowblower Maintenance - Changing Engine Oil, Cleaning The Spark Plug

Here is another pic of the plug after cleaned

crigby · Jan 4, 2009, 05:22 PM

Hi,
The plug looks fairly new, but it is down in that circular recess between the threaded body and center electrode is where they short.
Peace,
Clarke

KISS · Jan 4, 2009, 05:39 PM

You did do the:
1. take out plug
2. Spray carb cleaner all around the hole
3. put rag over hole
4. Turn engine over a few times so gunk goes into rag.

OK

Test for fire:
1. take plug out
2. Connect the wire to the top of the plug
3. Get a block of wood and hold plug body (where the threads are) against a good clen part of the engine. No paint
4. Try to start or pull cord
5. Look for regular spark

jli_2008 · Jan 4, 2009, 08:35 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

You did do the:
1. take out plug
2. Spray carb cleaner all around the hole
3. put rag over hole
4. Turn engine over a few times so gunk goes into rag.

OK

Test for fire:
1. take plug out
2. Connect the wire to the top of the plug
3. Get a block of wood and hold plug body (where the threads are) against a good clen part of the engine. No paint
4. Try to start or pull cord
5. Look for regular spark

I did do the first 4 steps above, also did the second 5 steps to test fire, spark looks good, I could see regular blue spark over the medal part of the engine when I push the electronic start button. However, the engine still could not start up after put the plug back. I guess the gas inside the engine has not been completely volatilized. I'll take out the plug and leave the plug hole open over the night and try my luck tomorrow.

Thanks for your help!

John

KISS · Jan 4, 2009, 08:58 PM

This doesn't make any sense now. If you just spray a little carb cleaner in the plug hole, replace the plug and try to start, the engine should at lest sputter once or twice.

Can you take a picture of the snowblower?
1. Does it have a primer bulb?
2. Does it have a fuel cock? Is it on?
3. Separate or integral choke?

jli_2008 · Jan 4, 2009, 09:17 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

This doesn't make any sense now. If you just spray a little carb cleaner in the plug hole, replace the plug and try to start, the engine should at lest sputter once or twice.

Can you take a picture of the snowblower?
1. Does it have a primer bulb?
2. Does it have a fuel cock? Is it on?
3. Separate or integral choke?

1. Yes, it does have a primer bulb
2. It has a fule valve, I guess it's the fule cock you mentioned. It was put in on position.
3. It has a choke switch together with the engine, has 0,1/2 full position, it was put in full position.
4. I'll take a picture and upload it tomorrow, it's a bit late in east time area.

Thanks
John

KISS · Jan 4, 2009, 09:46 PM

When you try to start it the next time. Use the primer bulb and the choke like you did. If it doesn't kick, remove the plug and inspect to see if it's wet.

jli_2008 · Jan 4, 2009, 09:47 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

This doesn't make any sense now. If you just spray a little carb cleaner in the plug hole, replace the plug and try to start, the engine should at lest sputter once or twice.

Can you take a picture of the snowblower?
1. Does it have a primer bulb?
2. Does it have a fuel cock? Is it on?
3. Separate or integral choke?

Here are pics.
1. Full pic
2. Choke and start/stop switch
3. Fule Valve
4. Spark Plug hole

Thanks
John

jli_2008 · Jan 4, 2009, 09:57 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

When you try to start it the next time. Use the primer bulb and the choke like you did. If it doesn't kick, remove the plug and inspect to see if it's wet.

Thanks for the recommandication. I tried to use the primer bulb a couple of times but not exact last time. I did see the plug was a little wet after my last try, that's why I decided to keep the hole open for a night to get it dry enough.

I start to concern of my engine, :-( hopefully transport mistake might damage the engine and/or the machine.

Thanks for you quick answer and warm help

John

KISS · Jan 5, 2009, 07:36 AM

The plug being wet means it's getting gas. The spark generally means it's getting spark. I'd replace the spark plug anyway.

Another possibility is the octane or quality of the fuel. Octane at least mid grade? Is their water in it?

Transporting on it's side should not do any permanent harm.

jli_2008 · Jan 5, 2009, 09:17 AM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

The plug being wet means it's getting gas. The spark generaly means it's getting spark. I'd replace the spark plug anyway.

Another possibility is the octane or quality of the fuel. Octane at least mid grade? Is their water in it?

Transporting on it's side should not do any permanent harm.

The quality of the gas should be fine. I drained all the stale gas from the gas tank and fill up with new #87 gas ( same as my Toyoa car ).

I almost made it this morning. In my last try, the engine was started up but just stopped immediatelly. I guess I might over prime by push the primer too long time as I could see some gas dripped down from somewhere when I push the primer. I also carefully read the mannual again, looks like the primer is only needed for recoil start, not necessary for electric start. The choke should be kept "OFF" for electric start. It was too rush this morning to give more try, I'll try again follow the mannual step by step in the evening.

Thanks again, your answer and expertise really keeps me peace of mind!

John

KISS · Jan 5, 2009, 01:44 PM

So, you flooded it. Makes sense.

For future, don't use 87 octane for small engines. Use at least the mid grade, possibly premium.

jli_2008 · Jan 5, 2009, 04:30 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

So, you flooded it. Makes sense.

For future, don't use 87 octane for small engines. Use at least the mid grade, possibly premium.

No more luck :-( I tried to start it but this time the engine was not up at all. I think the further effort I can try is to buy a new spark plug.

BTW, should the plug be absolutely dry at any time? I just removed the plug and found it's a bit wet again. Does it mean the gas still has not been completely flooded yet?

Thanks
John

KISS · Jan 5, 2009, 05:20 PM

Wet is good. You normally troubleshoot with:
1. Is there air (snowthrowers don't have air cleaners)
2. Is there fuel (Is spark plug wet?: Yes)
3. Is there spark?
You did verify spark, but this is about the only possibility for damage. Neutral start switches and all safeties will prevent spark.

If you get all three of these things, then you try a spurt of carb cleaner as starting fluid. If you get even one sputter, then you could have fuel delivery problems.

If you don't, you look for other problems.

jli_2008 · Jan 5, 2009, 05:59 PM

Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Wet is good. You normally troubleshoot with:
1. Is there air (snowthrowers don't have air cleaners)
2. Is there fuel (Is spark plug wet?: Yes)
3. Is there spark?
You did verify spark, but this is about the only possibility for damage. Neutral start switches and all safeties will prevent spark.

If you get all three of these things, then you try a spurt of carb cleaner as starting fluid. If you get even one sputter, then you could have fuel delivery problems.

If you don't, you look for other problems.

1. Is there air? -- Don't know, can you gudie me how to verify
2. Is there fuel? -- Spark plug is wet, does it necessarily mean fuel is still there therefore need more time to vaporize
3. Is there spark? Yes, it was tested that the plug could generate spark?

How do I "try a spurt of carb cleaner as starting fluid" ?

Thnaks
Regards
John