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    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #41

    Dec 27, 2008, 10:28 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by hvac1000 View Post
    ....what most people do not understand it is not the brand name you buy but the quality of the install that makes a good furnace better than a bad one.
    Very well said!
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #42

    Dec 27, 2008, 11:07 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by whittle View Post
    Our furnace worked last night but this AM it didn't. It's a 3 year old Bryant 352MAV, installed horizontally.

    It's giving error 32. I've spent much of the day working with it. I'm more than handy but don't really know much about hvac.

    I found that the idiots that installed it (and who are now out of business) had the condenstation drain running uphilll a bit. It seemed to drain a bit anyways, as I found water on the ground at the end of the pipe, but also saw that the pipe was nearly full of water all the time. It must have had just the right slope to allow it to fill up and then drain.

    So I cut the pipe and drained it. I've got it temp set up so that it'll drain into a one gallon pan. One questions is, how much water does it output; how long would it take to fill the gallon? I'll keep an eye on it.

    But mainly it's still giving me error 32 and the furnace will not run.

    I have taken the inner panel door off and the little purple fuse seems to be ok. If after removing the inner panel, I depress the black switch, or put the panel back on, the main blower seems to run for about 5 minutes, and then ends. I also tried the 'test components' routine on the sticker where you disconnect the R wire and short Com 24v and test/twin; nothing happened when I did that. Did I test it wrong?

    So - the fault may not be the water in the pipe, but that'd be a error 32 candidate, as I understand it. Do I need to somehow reset the furnace? After the blower runs the LED is solid for a minute and then goes back to error 32.

    None of the local hvac companies are avialable for days and it's pretty cold here. Hope I can get some tips.

    A high quality horizontal install in attic..
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    whittle's Avatar
    whittle Posts: 19, Reputation: 1
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    #43

    Dec 27, 2008, 11:42 AM

    Our horizontal install does not look much like that. I see that image has a pan under the furnace - and now that I see how much moisture is generated by the unit we have, and how badly it is handled, I wish I had one. I might retrofit one. What doe that unit rest on? I mean, there are no legs visible. Our has two sheet metal boxes it rests on; kind of like inverted pan such as drywall installers use for mud.
    MarkwithaK's Avatar
    MarkwithaK Posts: 955, Reputation: 107
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    #44

    Dec 27, 2008, 11:59 AM

    It appears to be suspended from the rafters. Note the straps at the corners. That is how a good install should look. Granted the house looks like a newer construction. It is always easier to install when everything is open as opposed to retrofitted.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #45

    Dec 27, 2008, 12:56 PM
    Sadly, an installation of that quality is more the exception than the rule. I've seen that one before - the home is located in Perfect World, CA. and it never runs because the climate is, well... perfect.;)
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #46

    Dec 27, 2008, 01:00 PM
    Yes the unit is suspended as they all should be. Retro fitting a pan might be a tuff job unless you can suspend yours and slip it under or figure a way to jack it up. This unit is basically installed to the minimum CABO style code. It has a safety walkway,light that can be turned on from the attic access,120 volt service outlet,furnace service disconnect,secondary overflow drip pan etc. I use this photo in class as a example.
    whittle's Avatar
    whittle Posts: 19, Reputation: 1
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    #47

    Dec 27, 2008, 01:37 PM

    Is suspended the way to go because it allows for a pan without penetrations? I might be able to suspend it.

    On the other hand, I do get into the attic pretty often, so I'd see if there was water getting away from the unit... thus we might have a 'leak' but not likely a cascade of water (I think) and not much exposure to dry rot.
    whittle's Avatar
    whittle Posts: 19, Reputation: 1
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    #48

    Dec 30, 2008, 02:14 PM

    Can anyone tell me where the model number and serial number are located on this unit? I've looked into the two main chambers and don't find them.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #49

    Dec 30, 2008, 02:47 PM
    Usually with the front main door removed there is a tag on the metal of the furnace usually above the burners or on the sides of the burner area up away from the burners.
    whittle's Avatar
    whittle Posts: 19, Reputation: 1
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    #50

    Dec 30, 2008, 03:49 PM

    OK, thanks, found it.

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