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    elplcarp's Avatar
    elplcarp Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Dec 1, 2008, 01:31 PM
    Tapping into 2" copper pipe
    In my basement, I'm putting in two laundry hookups. There is already a 2" copper pipe tapped into a stack that runs the length of the room, about 24'. There is one copper T (2", 1.5", 2") already welded into the 2" drain pipe and has a trap with 1.5" standpipe. I want to add a 2" along the same length of 2" drain pipe. Armed with only a propane torch, I can't easily weld another copper fitting. Can I use a flex T coupling to tap into the 2" pipe and cannect it to 2" pvc trap and standpipe?

    I guess I'm looking for the easiest, yet reliable method to tap into this 2 inch drain pipe to install a clothes washer standpipe. Thanks
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #2

    Dec 1, 2008, 03:09 PM
    Hi Elplcarp:

    Best choice in this case will be to purchase 2 - 2" copper x 2" pvc shielded mission or proflex style clamps (see picture). These are sold at most home supply stores and at all plumbing supply houses. Do not use clamps without the banded shields.

    Then you will install a 2" wye inbetween these clamps and install a 2" ptrap off that.

    You will also need to add a vent to this setup. This can be done by connecting an 1.5" vent to the system and connecting that to another vent in the basement or attic OR you may be able to add an automatic air valve (an AAV) in its place. AAVs are not legal everywhere.

    The standpipe from the ptrap should be at a minimum 30 inches and you should include a full size cleanout if you can... just in case drain blocks up in future.

    Let me know if you have more questions here.

    Glad to help...

    MARK
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    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #3

    Dec 1, 2008, 03:23 PM
    Here is a quick picture of what it should all look like if you go with an AAV... ;)

    If you decide to individually vent this and tie the vent back into an existing vent then let us know so we can talk you through that!

    Good luck...

    MARK
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    elplcarp's Avatar
    elplcarp Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Dec 2, 2008, 08:03 AM
    Thanks Mark!

    A couple more questions...

    First, the existing set up in the basement seems very strange. The basement area used to be an apartment and the space I'm talking about was a kitchen/laundry. The 2" pipe is connected to a large vertical stack. The 2" pipe runs about a foot above the floor the nearly the entire length of the house (about 60 feet) then it rises at a 45 degree angel to about 6' and just stops inside the house. :confused: I believe there might be an AAV at the end. (What does it look like?) I've never smelled any sewer gases. (I've owned it only a year)

    A foot or so along the 2" copper is an existing T that was connected to a kitchen sink with and extension that ran to a laundry tub. Both the laundry tub and sink drained into that 2" inch copper which drained into the stack. I've torn out all the old kitchen and laundry fixtures, so I'm starting from scratch. I need two clothes washer drains, one for each unit in this house (two-unit house). This existing set up is probably 30 years old, or older. I've connected a standpipe to the existing T and ran water and it works fine. But I need a second further along the pipe.

    So, the question... using the wye, as you suggested, would it be copper, pvc? Then use the shielded couplings to attach it without solder? Which means I would have to cut a short section, out of the existing 2" copper pipe to allow room to slip the wye and couplings in place, right? I've tried to attach a diagram.




    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008 View Post
    Here is a quick picture of what it should all look like if you go with an AAV...;)

    If you decide to individually vent this and tie the vent back into an existing vent then let us know so we can talk you through that!!

    Good luck...

    MARK
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    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #5

    Dec 2, 2008, 05:23 PM
    Hi Elpelcarp:

    YUP! Want you to use a PVC wye and pipe/fittings here. In fact, with the new information you presented, I would, IDEALLY, want you to use two 2" wye fittings and I would want you to pipe 2" pvc in between these so that you can pipe both laundry setups as code would want you too... Check out my copy of your drawing below.

    Here, I have removed the individual AAV (see picture #3 and 4) and added an end cleanout in its place. Then I have you removing the copper pipe in between both locations and replacing it all with new PVC pipe/fittings.

    You would transition between the copper pipe and the PVC pipe WITHOUT SOLDERING (:) ) using 2" copper x 2" PLASTIC (ABS or PVC) mission clamps (see picture). You would also want to hang the pipe every 4 feet and should also hang pipe/fittings at each PTRAP standpipe (minimum height is 30-36") and AAV.

    Otherwise, you would be using two of the mission clamps at the 2nd location and inserting a PVC wye fitting in between the clamps... pipe as drawn if you can.

    You can add a dandy cleanout as drawn or not... can always loosen AAV from the PVC FEMALE ADAPTER and snake drain that way... ;)

    *NOTE* Some AAVS are 2" male thread and some are 1.5" male thread (connects to female adapter)... be sure to include for reducing fittings and pipe if you need to purchase the 1.5" AAV.

    These AAVS muct be READILY ACCESSIBLE in case they fail in the future (allow sewer gasses to enter home). This simply means that you can't hide them in the walls is all. If sewer odor develops years down the road replace the AAV.

    Let me know if this all makes sense... ok?

    MARK
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    elplcarp's Avatar
    elplcarp Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Dec 3, 2008, 06:52 AM

    Mark
    Thanks!. that all makes perfect sense. It solves several issues and allows me to cut off that section of copper that rises up into the room. Thanks again.

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