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    jmueller8's Avatar
    jmueller8 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 25, 2008, 12:10 PM
    Whirlpool Gas Dryer (MDL # LGR7648KQ1)
    My Whirlpool Gas Dryer (MDL # LGR7648KQ1) is not drying properly. The unit will heat up initially but after a while it will not ignite. I've taken it apart and run it without the drum. It ignited properly 3 times. With the unit reassembled the dryer will ignite on startup but not reignite through the cycle. I've pulled the schematics: Whirlpool LGR7648KQ1 Parts List and just don't know what part I need. Thank you very much for your help.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #2

    Oct 25, 2008, 01:27 PM

    Burners, usually just stay on. Areas to look for problems:

    1. #10 burner assy. That deflector has a LOT to do with the ability to ignite and keeping ignition. It diverts part of the flame so the sensor sees it as being hot. It may bend the more the unit is on causing ignition problems. When it's cold, it may work.

    2. The blower and belt. Check for any friction. If there is friction, there isn't enough air flow and the burner shuts down.

    3. The Thermocouple bulb that controls the burner. ANy lint around it will artificially change the temp and the burner will shut down.
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    jmueller8 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Oct 25, 2008, 03:31 PM

    Much to my embarrassment: I had checked both the vent to the dryer and to the outside; but, had never checked the actual tube. I found all those socks that keep disappearing! (Well at least in lint.) What the heck is a lint filter for if all that lint gets through?

    Thank you very much "KISS" for walking me through that. It's always the most obvious things I overlook!
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    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #4

    Oct 25, 2008, 04:24 PM

    Gas driers are very simple. That's why mine is 41 years old.
    Right now it needs a panel painted.
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    jmueller8 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Oct 27, 2008, 08:22 AM
    Oh man, I have to revisit this again. The dryer worked fine Saturday but on Sunday it did the same thing. I have a feeling there's a ton of lint on the sensor and I'll check / clean it later in the day. There's plenty of air flow. I probably should have mentioned that the unit is 5 years old and I use it at least twice a day. I have a huge family! :)
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    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #6

    Oct 27, 2008, 08:25 AM

    Air flow can be very deceiving. Make sure the blower moves freefly. Lint will do it all the time. An odd problem that happens, is sometimes critters stop up the vent. This is very rare.
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    jmueller8 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Oct 27, 2008, 08:32 AM

    LOL! That would be just my luck is some animal crawled in and made a home! I'll check it out first! Thank you again!
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    #8

    Oct 27, 2008, 12:57 PM

    Well; no critters and I took out the 2 90* elbows to give it straight run. Started up fine. Now there's no heat. I'm pretty sure I've got good circulation "now" because I cleaned all the lint out of the unit after removing the drum... made about $4 in quarters in the process! The one area I did not mess with was the burner.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #9

    Oct 27, 2008, 01:01 PM

    Did you get ignitor or pilot?
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    jmueller8 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Oct 27, 2008, 01:20 PM

    Igniter.
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    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #11

    Oct 27, 2008, 05:56 PM

    When the ignitor starts to go, it doesn't get hot enough sometimes to light the pilot. If the ignitor hasn't been replaced and you really have this amount of use on the dryer, I'd consider replacing it. Remember not to touch the new one.

    Sears is a little high compared to local supply stores
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    jmueller8 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Oct 27, 2008, 09:26 PM

    Ok I'll get it tomorrow. I've 6 (SIX) kids who are messy as heck! I did 8 loads this weekend alone. But I do average 2 loads per day. I've already had to get my washer fixed. Something in the gear box. The repair man said it was normal with 10 year old units but not 3. Damn kids! (Yes I love them!)

    Thank you!
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    jmueller8 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Oct 28, 2008, 01:09 PM
    Alright; I've got the new igniter in without getting any oils on it. Turned it on, made sure it was warming up, left it for 10 minutes, and... came back to a cold unit.

    So; any suggestions or do I throw in the towel and have it repaired?
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #14

    Oct 29, 2008, 10:09 AM

    So you didn't watch what happened.

    The ignitor should come on, then a small click from the gas valve and then pilot and then a larger click from the gas valve and then the burner ignites.

    If you don't have pilot, but have ignitor, then the pilot orifice can be dirty or the pilot gas valve. Pilots generally are not adjustible.

    If you get pilot then it's the job of the thermocouple to check how hot the pilot flame is. If it's corroded, then it needs to be lightly sanded.

    If the burner ignites and then almost immediately shuts down, then you need to look at safeties and the burner assembly.
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    #15

    Oct 29, 2008, 10:45 AM
    No I've tog the single panel and can't watch it with the unit assembled. I did tear into the blower / lint vent assembly and pulled out another wad of crap. The entire unit is clean now.

    I dried a load of towels and the unit ran very well until it was just slightly damp then the heat turned off. It ran for about 20 minutes with the heat and then it turned off. I've cleaned off all the sensors on the burner and just after the blower.

    The igniter runs periodically. Once it gets to it's temp it shuts down and restarts (normally). Sounds like it's not restarting but I can't tell with the unit assembled.

    How do I tell if the coil valves need to be replaced and more importantly what the heck are they?
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #16

    Oct 29, 2008, 11:26 AM

    Too bad you can't watch it.

    If it's not air flow and not the exhause fan bearing or belt and all the sensors and ducts are clean then the only real problem that it can be is the burner assembly or the thermocouple could be too dirty.

    The little "cobra head" directs some of the flame onto the thermocouple. What I have seen happen is that over the drying cycle the head bends and then the dryer shuts down. After the dryer cools, it starts and will start shutting down at a shorter and shorter time. This may also be the problem if there are a lot of rapid clicks when the burner shuts down.

    Try bending the "cobra head". If you can bend it without much force, it's bad.
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    jmueller8 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Oct 29, 2008, 11:39 AM
    Awesome! I know we're just about to have this thing licked. I'll tackle the "cobra head" after school! Thank you again!
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    #18

    Oct 29, 2008, 01:50 PM

    LOL! I've decided to call in a tech! I checked the cobra head which is very solid. Then I got a wild hare up my R's and decided to check the sensors with a voltmeter... Sparks flew when I checked the TML fuse! It was beautiful!! Can't really figure out why it did that though! Shouldn't it have tripped my voltmeter? Oh well, I learned a ton from you. Thanks very much.
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    #19

    Oct 31, 2008, 06:25 PM

    Well the repairs have been made and it was in fact the coils that had worn out. The repair man I had service my unit said that was the first thing to go and the easiest to replace! He also had to replace the thermostat that I shorted out.

    KISS - thanks very much for your help! I learned a ton from you!!
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    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #20

    Oct 31, 2008, 07:26 PM

    Gas valve coils?

    Thanks bunches for the complements.

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