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    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #41

    Oct 7, 2008, 09:53 AM
    #3 should not be melting. Having 26 volts instead of 24 volts is normal and OK.
    Scottyp's Avatar
    Scottyp Posts: 30, Reputation: 1
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    #42

    Oct 7, 2008, 10:39 AM

    Yep #1 & 3 must have overheated or something. They both started to melt down.. That's why I suspect the relay wiring..
    Actually Terminal #1 is much worse than #3..

    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #43

    Oct 7, 2008, 10:59 AM
    Ok
    Scottyp's Avatar
    Scottyp Posts: 30, Reputation: 1
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    #44

    Oct 7, 2008, 03:27 PM

    Well do my thermostat wiring look correct?

    I got the wiring directly from Honeywell ECC Customer Care..

    Old = New
    R = R and Rc Jumpered
    Y = Y
    G = G
    O = O/B
    W = Aux
    B = C
    X = E
    .
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #45

    Oct 7, 2008, 05:05 PM
    I checked the old subbase on Honeywells site and then the new one. I believe it is wired correctly but I am not there to test it. What bothers me is the fact that the low voltage relay has signs of overload at the low voltage area. That is strange.
    Scottyp's Avatar
    Scottyp Posts: 30, Reputation: 1
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    #46

    Oct 7, 2008, 05:39 PM

    What should I do next?

    Just wait and install the new York Relay tomorrow.

    Low voltage overload? What should I test to find it?

    Im concerned about the humming when the fan is off. Its like the unit is sending power to something that is shorted... Sounds just like a blown/blocked electrical motor; bone stuck in a kitchen sink disposer. Yeah... Like something is stuck!
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #47

    Oct 7, 2008, 06:50 PM
    Exactly where is the hum comming from? Low voltage transformers are a known to hum but that kind of hum is OK. It is just loose laminate plates in the transformer.
    Scottyp's Avatar
    Scottyp Posts: 30, Reputation: 1
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    #48

    Oct 8, 2008, 07:43 AM

    Correction: The sound IS coming from the transformer.
    How can I fix the loose laminate plates inside? Or does it require replacement?

    I will pickup the replacement York relay today.
    Scottyp's Avatar
    Scottyp Posts: 30, Reputation: 1
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    #49

    Oct 8, 2008, 03:21 PM

    Installed the new relay..
    Starting the AC & heating testing while viewing fan functions.
    EPMiller's Avatar
    EPMiller Posts: 624, Reputation: 37
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    #50

    Oct 8, 2008, 03:36 PM

    If the crimp terminals at the end of the wires are not crimped solidly, or they don't grip the terminal VERY tightly, you can get heat damage that can show up like you see on that picture of the fan relay you posted yesterday. I'm not sure that I've ever seen it on the low voltage section of a relay like that, but check them. If they aren't gripping the terminal tight enough, just pinch them a bit with a pliers. Don't go overboard though or you won't get them back on.

    Usually a loose connection like that will show up with a bit of tracing with your DVM. You have to measure THROUGH the connection, so check the resistance of the relay coil and subtract it from the reading from the far end of one of those wires through the relay coil to the other terminal. You should get 1 ohm or less if the terminal and crimp are OK.
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    EPMiller Posts: 624, Reputation: 37
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    #51

    Oct 8, 2008, 03:39 PM
    Don't worry about the buzzing low voltage transformer unless it is LOUD or very hot. If you really don't like it, replace it, but I've had new ones that hummed. Usually cheap no-names, but I've had it happen with major labeled ones too. I just changed a leaking gas water heater today that has been humming for a long time.
    Scottyp's Avatar
    Scottyp Posts: 30, Reputation: 1
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    #52

    Oct 8, 2008, 05:16 PM

    Thanks EP..
    I checked the crimp terminals. They looked good but I tighten them a little and reinstalled them. The resistance difference was 0.02 ohm after tightening.

    Hey guys,
    After my initial test, It appears the Fan relay was the problem.
    Tested all of the thermostat functions: AC ON, Heat ON, and Everything OFF.
    Fan is working as normal again.. Guess that you can only use York Relays...
    I will monitor over the next few days. Hopefully, everything will work correctly. :)
    Thanks HVAC & EP for your assistance through this. :D

    Now, how can I fix the loose tranformer laminate plates?
    Or does it also require replacement?

    .
    EPMiller's Avatar
    EPMiller Posts: 624, Reputation: 37
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    #53

    Oct 8, 2008, 05:28 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Scottyp View Post
    Thanks EP..
    <snip>Now, how can I fix the loose tranformer laminate plates?
    Or does it also require replacement?
    I don't know of any way to fix that. The magnetic flux in there will defeat any bending and crimping that you can do. You will have to replace it if you don't like it. See my above post.

    EPM
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
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    #54

    Oct 8, 2008, 10:15 PM
    The only thing I can figure is the first relay you got was defective since the terminals work out to be the same. The best thing is you got it running and that is all that counts.
    JimmyTheAirGuy's Avatar
    JimmyTheAirGuy Posts: 15, Reputation: 0
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    #55

    Oct 10, 2008, 02:07 AM
    Hello Scotty,
    I'm Jimmy the air guy I have 25 years in the business and I'm here to help.
    My hats off to you for buying a new heat pump.
    That's a very wise thing to do.
    Relax because the problem you're most likely experiencing
    Is a minor one.
    It is most likely a stuck sequensor.
    The sequensor is a part that is in your fan circuit,its purpose is to run the fan for 60 to 90 seconds after your unit satisfies the thermastat.
    To verify this simply tap on the sequensor after the units thermastat stops calling and see if the unit stops.( that usually frees them) if not simply replace the part. They normally run about 25.00 if you can pick one up at a supply house.
    Good Luck and GOD bless.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #56

    Oct 10, 2008, 03:49 AM
    Hi JimmyTheAirGuy. Great suggestion but you are a bit late on that one. The sequencer situation was covered in the beginning of this thread and was tested by Scotty. Stuck or defective sequencers are a common problem with electric furnaces as you are well aware of.

    It is great we have a new person on board that has HVAC knowledge but please try to read all the posts on a thread to see if any ideas you have might have already been covered. This helps to make things a bit easier for the person doing the repair. Once again glad to have you and your knowledge on the board. We have a great group of folks here who try there best to help people.
    Scottyp's Avatar
    Scottyp Posts: 30, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #57

    Oct 10, 2008, 06:11 AM

    Thanks HVAC..
    Jimmy, thanks for the info.. I just might replace the sequencers if the problem returns (16+ yrs old parts). But, I have 2 different kinds: Seq-one with 3 levels of connections and Seq-two with a single level of connections. Also been researching doing a conversion of my air handler blower control from a single speed to multiple speed for Heat & AC. I can incorporate new sequencers as part of the project.

    But currently after 2 days of monitoring, my unit is working as normal without problems.
    JimmyTheAirGuy's Avatar
    JimmyTheAirGuy Posts: 15, Reputation: 0
    New Member
     
    #58

    Oct 10, 2008, 08:35 AM
    ScottyP,
    Glad to hear all is well with your system. Hopefully your system will last for years to come.
    Remember, your systems performance will only be as well as you allow it to be.
    With today's energy concern these systems are built a bit more sophisticated then they use to be with extra limits and lockouts. Some good advice would be a solid preventive maintenance plan. For the do-it-yourselfer you can contact your manufactures web site and download a free manual for maintenance suggestions or visit my website at ]http://jimmytheairman.com/tipsfromjimmy.aspx[/URL].aspx also free of charge.
    For the consumer you can contact your areas chamber of commerce and get a list of reputable hvac contractors. Please keep in mind that the most important investment you can make on your home or office is the comfort of it. So, cheaper is not always better.

    Jimmy The Air Guy

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