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    jwl4950's Avatar
    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Sep 12, 2008, 01:10 PM
    Looking for good Advise on replacing toilet flange on concrete slab to install toilet
    To whom it may concern: I got a problem with a toilet that has been rocking and twisting for quite some time until it started leaking and what now I pull up the toilet to find out that the flange is broken on one side. I tried that flange plate from home depo but it won't work because the slab is uneven also the flange make the toilet looks like it is being jack up on one side for a flat tire that's won't work . I tried to use concrete anchors sleeves but the cement gave away around the anchor. I got one other solution but I need some advise on how to remove the flange from the concrete slab floor and replace it with another one so I can In stall my new toilet.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #2

    Sep 12, 2008, 03:02 PM
    Is it a cast iron drain or PVC. You can install an Oatey Twist-n-Set in cast. Twist N Set Cast Iron Replacement Closet Flange :: Oatey.com Also sounds like you'll need some plastic shims for under the low edges of the toilet before you caulk.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #3

    Sep 12, 2008, 03:36 PM
    If it is cast iron, you can't drill out the lead and remove the old flange. Then lead a new one in. As far as the uneven floor goes, I have found that plaster paris work extremely well instead of caulk. It sets up nice and hard, and is much easier to clean up if you ever replace the existing toilet with a new one.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #4

    Sep 13, 2008, 07:37 AM
    Lead and oakum are pretty much old school since cheaper and easier options are now available.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #5

    Sep 13, 2008, 01:02 PM
    Just an option. And thank god ci is all but obsolete
    jwl4950's Avatar
    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Sep 15, 2008, 12:15 PM
    The flange is pvc in the concrete slab I received some advise about using an inside pipe cutter for pvc and remove the flange top flush with the concrete and then glue in a new flange is that true .
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    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Sep 15, 2008, 12:18 PM
    What is plaster paris and where do you purchase it at.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #8

    Sep 15, 2008, 12:55 PM
    If you are considering trying to level the floor plaster of paris is not the greatest solution. Its great for pouring molds of stutues or figure but not as a flooring material. Take a look at products like this FLOOR COATINGS BY SIDER-OXYDRO, INC. The Dremel cutter can be used to remove the old flange and then you can install a different type of Oatey flange made for PVC. Closet PVC Flange Replacement 43539 by Oatey at HardwareAndTools.com You grease and slide this down inside the old pipe and then tighten the 3 hex screws to expand the rubber collar.
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    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Sep 15, 2008, 01:23 PM
    Do sider-oxydro inc have a web site also this pipe cutter looks just like a dremel cutter the tool I am talking about fits into a drill.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #10

    Sep 15, 2008, 01:27 PM
    Sider doesn't really make most of what they sell so there may be another brand name floating around. It would probably work, got a picture?
    jwl4950's Avatar
    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Sep 15, 2008, 03:19 PM
    I went to hardware and tools .com the one you recommended was for cast iron and not pvc should I get the next one in line that said for pvc and what type of grease should I use. I will try and get and get a picture together OK.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #12

    Sep 15, 2008, 05:35 PM
    Plumbers grease, buy a very small tube in the plumbing aisle.
    jwl4950's Avatar
    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Sep 15, 2008, 06:09 PM
    ballengerb1 when I get this pipe cutter for the flange do I just cut the flange off flush to the slab or go inside and clean the drain pipe out as well with or do you recommend something else to clean the inside of the drain pipe.
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    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Sep 15, 2008, 06:50 PM
    What Does DWV schedule 40 pipe means
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #15

    Sep 15, 2008, 07:51 PM
    Drain/waste/vent pipe good for all three types of uses and schedule 40 refers to the thickness, schedule 80 is thicker and can handle higher psi. There are even thicker stronger PVC than 80, 120.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #16

    Sep 16, 2008, 03:04 PM
    I agree plaster of paris wouldn't be good for leveling the whole floor. But it works greak in place of silicone for just under the toilet itself. You can get it at most hardware stores. Kind of messy to apply but cleans up very easily. I started using this method about eight years ago, and have not had one problem with it since. Quick easy and looks nice.
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    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Sep 16, 2008, 03:07 PM
    My girls dad 77, if I get this stuff do I need to make a platform around the toilet area to make it or how you suggest I put it down for leveling off the area.
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    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #18

    Sep 16, 2008, 03:39 PM
    I set the tiolet, level with shims, then plaster around the unshimmed areas of the tiolet. Let set a few minutes until the paster has hardened enough to hold the weight of the tiolet. Then remove shims and plaster the area where the shims were. Basically the same way you would caulk or silicone the tiolet. If your floor isn't to bad out of level, you may be able to just set the toilet, don't over tighten, just eoungh to squish your wax ring, and then plaster it without shims. Im not totally against silicone either. Its works just fine. Just make sure to let it set up for at least 24 hours. It is quicker and easier. The only down fall is if you ever need to pull the toilet. I hate cleaning old cock off fixtures.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #19

    Sep 16, 2008, 04:02 PM
    Shims stay in place for the life of the toilet. I still think a self leveling cement is the way to go over plaster.
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    jwl4950 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
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    #20

    Sep 16, 2008, 07:00 PM
    The only thing I want to know is do I build a platform to pour the stuff into also will the toilet get stuck into the plaster where I can't pull it up from the floor if I need to replace the wax ring. One other question what does plummers putty do ?

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