[thommyschnak]

I moved into my house three years ago, and one of the first things I did is change out the old steam boiler, that was fueled with oil remove the oil tank, and then replace it with a new gas fired boiler, and Wow what a difference.
The new boiler is a Weil-Mclain packaged boiler, model EG, series 4. It has a wet return, with a regular U shaped steam lop in the basement that has two pressure relief valves. From there the piping tee's off to steam radiators on the first and second floors. Each steam radiator has a feed in on the bottom of one side, and on the top of the other end is a pressure relief valve. Over the past couple of winters I have been replacing the steam relief valves to try to even out the heat in the system.
My first question is what is the best method of evening out the heat in the house?
My second question is how do I skim my boiler.
The house is almost 65 years old, and I still have the original old rigid piping in this system. The pipes continue to leak rust back down into the boiler clouding the water in the site glass,
And sometimes, especially toward the end of last season those valves started spiting black grime out onto the wall
Winter is fast and I feel that I need to skim it out and start fresh for the season.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[massplumber2008]

Thommyschnak:

You need to start with a good boiler cleaning and then initiate a regular maintenance schedule on the new boiler.

Wondering if you have automatic water feed or maintain this as needed? Also wondering if you have an electronic low- water cutoff or older, mechanical-style low-water cutoff....let me know so we can discuss regular maintenance of these different types of controls!!

I use SQUICK steam boiler cleaner/inhibitor with silicone after every new steam boiler installation. Click on this link to learn more about squick.. '

SQUICK Steam Boiler Cleaner/Inhibitor

It is available at all plumbing and heating supply houses that I've ever visited. Read information and then pop back if you have any questions on this. I usually introduce this stuff by removing the relief valve, pour as directed, then re-install and heat the boiler to steaming, etc. Read instructions on bottle... you may need one or two bottles depending on the BTU input/output of your boiler (1 bottle = 150,000 btuh output... see label on boiler). You will then drain all this (even though website says not too...ok??) and the resultant sediment because you did not do an initial cleaning and then you will refill boiler to proper level with clean water... may need to repeat this draining/refilling a few times.

In terms of BALANCING your heat system what you need is to purchase steam VENTS (not relief valves) that are adjustable...they are available at all home supply stores. Click on this link for more information:

AOL Image Search results for "adjustable steam vent"

Simply remove the old vents and install new vents by applying PIPE DOPE to thread and threading into radiators. Then you want to take the hottest rooms and adjust to say 4... then take rooms that are coldest and open the vents to 8 or 9... then you fire boiler system up and play around a bit with the adjustment screws on vents until you achieve a balance that you like... see picture below.

Let me know what you think...

MARK

[thommyschnak]

Mark,
To answer your questions I have a manual feed, and an electronic low water cut-off.
I have read through your reply, and I am going to try what you have sugested, I just have a few additional questions for you.
When you say pressure relief valve I assume you mean from the top of the boiler, is this correct?
Secondly my boiler instructions say that I am not to use "petroleum-based cleaning or sealing compounds" in the boiler system. Is "SQUICK" O.K. in this application?
Third, My boiler is 150,000 BTU, one bottle is enough?
The boiler manual says, when referring to the final adjustments, to;
1. "Provide 1 1/2" piping from skim tapping to the floor drain--What is a skim tapping.
2. Adjust water line to midpoint of the skim tapping.
3. Fire boiler to maintain temp. below steaming rate.
4. Feed in water to maintain water level. Cycle burners to prevent rise in steam pressure.
5. Continue skimming until discharge is clear. May take several hours.
6. Drain boiler. While boiler is WARM, BUT NOT HOT, flush all interior surfaces under full pressure until drain water runs clear.
7. Remove skim piping. Plug tapping.
8. Close drain cock. Fill with fresh water to waterline. Start burners and steam for 15 minutes to dissolved gasses. Stop burners.
9. Check traps and air vents for proper operation."
Can you help me understand what is being conveyed in the instruction above, and let me know what is necessary to preform?
Last I was wondering about the water, and possible sediment in the lower wet return? Like I said these pipes are at least 60 years old, should these be flushed, or will this be accomplished with your previous suggestions?
Thank you in advance for all of your help.
Tommy Schnak

[massplumber2008]

Hi Tommy:

Fun question... I don't get called on this often, but installed all my life.

The pressure relief valve is usually at the top of the boiler... see picture below.

Squick contains no petroleum products and is absolutely a safe product to use in the weil-mclain steam boiler.

One bottle should do it at 150,000btu

The rest I will have to answer in AM.

Glad to explain steam system.

MARK

[thommyschnak]

Mark,
Thank you for all of your great advice, and for helping me to understand some of the terminology that I am unfamiliar with. I'm an electrician, who tries hard not to get his hands wet,:rolleyes: but when I found out what it would cost for a plumber to install a new boiler, I decided to cash in on a couple of the favors that I had done for some of my friends and family. I called on my wife's uncle, the pipe fitter, and another electrician friend of mine, who's previous occupation had been replacing boilers for a plumbing contractor. As well as a couple of friends to help get it down the stairs, which was no easy feat!! Anyway I just wanted to thank you for helping me understand, and maintain my steam system. I always take pride in the work that I do in my trade, and I can tell that you are a man who takes pride in practicing his trade, and that's something that I can really appreciate.
I look forward to reading your next post!
Thank you,
Tommy

[massplumber2008]

Hi Tommy:

You know it's funny, it was when I asked an electrical question over in the electrical area that started me hanging around this site... now look at me :rolleyes:

Anyway, the list that is provided by the boiler manual doesn't really apply in this case... let me explain. In fact, your boiler was most likely not piped in with a skim piping setup... most never are.

Why would we need to skim the boiler anyway.. Well, when boilers are manufactured they leave an oily residue over the entire boiler surface to keep it from rusting and of course, when we pipe these boilers we usually use black steel pipe and use all kinds of oil to cut threads. These oils acculmulate and will end up floating on the surface of the water in the boiler/steam chamber causing a water/oil surface that causes a more turbulent heating of the water creating noises and sometimes surging of water and banging of pipes, etc... That is why it is so important to remove the oil/sediment by SKIMMING the water after installation and then again periodically every year.

This is where SQUICK comes into play so well. It effectively SKIMS the boiler by grabbing onto the oils and sediment that are floating on the top of the water and then PRECIPITATES it out of the water and it floats to the bottom of the boiler where it can now be skimmed from the bottom of the boiler by draining and refilling a number of times. That is why I said that I use this stuff immediately after boiler installation... makes for a cleaner/quieter boiler system.

If you follow directions on the squick bottle (except you will be draining/refilling your boiler a number of times) you will see that it almost mimicks your boiler manufacturers instructions for skimming... but here it is done by removing precipitates from the bottom.

So, in fact, we do still skim the boilers... just not from the top anymore. Of course, old timers still install a skimming leg... not a bad idea at all... but I'll tell you it is hard enough to get plumber's to install the HARTFORD LOOP... never mind the skim leg... ;)

Therafter, you will need to drain and refill the boiler monthly during heat season. At the beginning of each heat season add another bottle of squick and then use the boiler for a month to help clear the pipes of oils/sediment that may have collected in the lower wet return and other pipes in the system. Then drain boiler again until all clear and you should be able to maintain healthy boiler thereafter.

So there you go...

Let me know if you have any more questions... always glad to chat!

MARK

[thommyschnak]

Mark,
Thank you for all of your help, I'm going to try to get started this weekend, I'll let you know how I make out, have a great weekend!
Tommy

[massplumber2008]

Good luck!