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OK my friend

I just took a ing long wire and hooked it up behind terminal 7 and took off the connector of the pump and just plug it straight up to the pump... I turned the key to on AND BANG FUEL PUMP RUNS FINE

Si what ill do... ill just strip the wire behind both connector and just fuse the new wire to the old one and put electrical tape

What you think

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I'm not sure I exactly follow what you did. I defer to your judgement.

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I just bypassed the normal wire

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you are basically just replacing a bad wire with a new one, I have no problem with it. Just make sure the relay still works the way it was originally designed. There are safety components to it.

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Well my friend... if I ever have any more problems ill get back to you... youve been really helpful and now my car start no problemo. Just like before

Id like to talk you for the time you gave me AND my car (since she is my beauty)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Good job!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Thought you would find this of interest. Wrote this up, after our efforts--thanks for the inspiration. It should make life easier for others.

Fuel System Troubleshooting

This is a two-part problem: 1) Determine if the fuel pump works, and 2) Determine why the PGM-FI Main Relay doesn't work properly.

If you don't hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II):

Problem 1: Determine if the fuel pump works.

1. Disconnect the main relay from the main relay connector. Jump main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7, turn the ignition switch to ON, and listen for the fuel pump in the gas tank. If you can hear the fuel pump run, which is usually the case, it is likely good and you should proceed to Problem 2. If it doesn't run, go to Step 2.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 5 and ground. If there's not battery voltage, test/replace the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse. Verify that you now have battery voltage to Terminal 5. If the fuel pump still doesn't run, however, go to Step 3.

3. Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 7 and the fuel pump. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring. If the fuel pump still doesn't run, go to Step 4.

4. Check fuel pump. Even though it's certainly possible, I have never seen a Honda fuel pump fail. They are very reliable. Clean connections and thoroughly test pump motor, prior to replacement. Before going any further, all efforts must be focused on getting the fuel pump to run (i.e. solve Problem 1 first), when main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7 are jumped and the ignition switch is turned to ON. If the main relay and fuel pump still don't work properly together, however, go to Problem 2.

Problem 2: Determine why the PGM-FI Main Relay doesn't work properly.

5. Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 2 and body ground, with the ignition switch OFF. If there's no continuity, clean the main ECM ground, which is usually located on the thermostat housing. Look for 3 wires going to a brass connector. Remove the 10 mm bolt, clean with No. 240 abrasive cloth, and apply dielectric grease. Repair, if necessary, an open in the wiring between the main relay and the main ECM ground. If there's continuity, go to Step 6.

6. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 1 and ground. If there is not battery voltage, test/replace the ECM fuse (15 A) in the under-hood fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the ECM fuse. If there is battery voltage, go to Step 7.

7. Turn the ignition switch to START. With manual transmissions, depress the clutch pedal. With automatic transmissions, the gear selector must be in Neutral or Park. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 6 and ground. If there's not battery voltage, test/replace the STARTER SIGNAL (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the STARTER SIGNAL fuse. Should the main relay and fuel pump still not work properly, go to Step 8.

8. Perform the K-Test on the ECM. Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. The ECM controls grounding to main relay Terminal 8, which affects when the second relay inside the main relay opens and closes. If the ECM cannot control grounding to the second relay, the fuel pump will not run. The only alternative is to replace the ECM.

SUMMARY OF MAIN RELAY PROBLEM AREAS:

Terminal 1--Test ECM fuse in under-hood fuse box.
Terminal 2--Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.
Terminal 5--Test ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in under-dash fuse box.
Terminal 6--Test STARTER SIGNAL fuse in under-dash fuse box.
Terminal 7--Test continuity to fuel pump.
Terminal 8--Test ECM (K-Test).

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Well the car is running nice and smooth has before but I have a fuel leak... its the one of the fuel line(not the one with the bolt) and it's a small leak between the plate of the pump and the gaz line... its there a quick fix for this?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Ensure any soft copper sealing washers were properly installed and you used a torque wrench to tighten the banjo bolt. Old copper washers should not be reused. You positively don't want any leaks.