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blaronn · Apr 20, 2006, 07:22 PM

I have a Whirlpool Senseon electric dryer (model GEQ9858JQ0, same as in another post - "Whilrpool dryer keeps shutting off" from 2/9/06). It's about five years old. The dryer worked fine until today. We ran several loads through it just fine today, then it wouldn't start when pressing the Start button. I hear a click when pressing the Start button, and again when opening the door, but the heating element doesn't turn on and the drum doesn't turn. Interior light comes on when opening the door. I pulled the back off and cleaned it thoroughly. No change. Any ideas what the problem could be? Thanks!

applguy · Apr 22, 2006, 08:39 PM

Unplug the unit and take the back off. Down towards the bottom, near the exhaust connection, you will find a small, white thin plastic part with 2 blue wires connected to it. Remove the wires, put them together, wrap with electrical tape, and then plug the dryer in and see if it runs then. Report back with the result of this test. Thanks.

blaronn · Apr 25, 2006, 05:29 PM

Bingo! I connected them and the dryer started right up. I assume that I now need to replace the small, white, thin plastic part (looks like a Microtemp thermal cutoff fuse based on a quick Google search - looks like this). Thanks so much for the help, applguy!! :D

applguy · Apr 25, 2006, 05:51 PM

That cutoff usually opens at about 196 degrees. The electronic control in your dryer utilizes a thermistor instead of an operating thermostat. The control monitors the resistance in the thermistor and turns the heater on and off based on those readings. You might make sure the thermistor (right next to the open cutoff with 2 small wires on it) is clean on the sensing side by removing it and brushing it off. Basically, the exhaust temperature got too hot. This could be caused by a slightly restricted vent system, bad thermistor, or bad electronic control. If the vent system is fully open all the way out, then I would probably replace the thermistor, usually costing about 25.00. Let me know how it turns out.

blaronn · Apr 25, 2006, 06:16 PM

There was quite a bit of lint built up on the back of both the thermistor and the thermal cutoff. The rest of the venting system looked clear though, and the actual thermistor looked pretty much like this picture after being cleaned off. So you think I should replace both the thermistor and the thermal cutoff?

applguy · Apr 27, 2006, 07:47 PM

That's up to you. You'll have to replace the cutoff, but if the thermistor is bad, the cutoff will blow again. It's not a very expensive part, but it's the only way to effectively test the thermistor. You could use an electronic temp meter to test exhaust temps to see what the lowest and highest temps are at each setting on the control. If you do this, make sure to let the dryer cycle for 10-15 minutes before recording the min/max temps for each setting. High temp should not exceed 170 degrees with an empty drum and disconnected exhaust system. If it does, I would replace the thermistor. Really, either way you go, it's kind of a crapshoot. Welcome to the wonderful world of electronics and appliances...

blaronn · Apr 28, 2006, 05:30 AM

Excellent. Good advice, applguy. I replaced both (all that testing sounded like too much of a pain just to save $20). Everything seems to be working fine now. Thanks for your help!!

N8s93turbo · Apr 27, 2007, 07:42 PM

I have the same problem with a different model whirlpool, the LER5636EQ3. I disconnected the two blue wires and taped them together it fixed mine as well. I don't have any parts on mine that look like the ones you bought to fix yours. My piece the blue wires were hooked to looks like this... Partselect.com - Whirlpool Dryer Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts . What other part do I need? Is a thermostat the same as a thermistor? Thanks so much

blaronn · Apr 27, 2007, 08:08 PM

Can't say I have the answers, and it looks like applguy hasn't been around in a while, but I'll give it a shot. The part you linked to doesn't look like mine, but I'm thinking it's the same as my thermal fuse, just a different model. The thermal fuse is basically just a fuse. When it gets hot, the fuse will sever and break the circuit. Got to replace the fuse to get it going again, but it'll likely go out again because there's something else making it get too hot (poor ventilation, bad thermostat, bad control board, etc). The "thermistor" isn't a thermostat, it's some kind of humidity sensor I believe.

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the thermistor in mine, and the problem continued despite clean venting. My next step would've been to replace the control board but I just bit the bullet and bought a new dryer instead (lazy I guess). Good luck, and hopefully an expert will give you better advice!

N8s93turbo · Apr 27, 2007, 10:18 PM

Hmm, I just realized this was from last April not this April. I wonder if it will hurt anything if I just keep running it with the two wires taped together? As long as I keep an eye on it.

blaronn · Apr 28, 2007, 03:40 AM

Sounds risky. The fuses are only $15 or so.

N8s93turbo · Apr 29, 2007, 08:05 AM

$7 for the fuse. Going to order it.

smashedixnay · Oct 4, 2009, 10:10 AM

How do you open the back? It seems that its welded on and won't open. Its like I have to pry it open.

slumlord21 · Feb 25, 2010, 03:43 PM

For some of the Whirlpool models, the sensor is accessed through the bottom panel on the front of the dryer. Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust these sensors? I just had one replaced (because I was trying to tear off the back of the dryer per this forum before I gave up and called a technician) and now the dryer starts cooling off when the clothes are still very damp. If I bypass the sensor, can I leave those blue wires tied together?