[bhelped]

I have a york unit replaced run cap and fan motor the blade is in the right position the fan motor is oem and run cap matches fan motor spec the ac unit comes on runs 5 minutes and fan shuts off and the fan is not hot to touch. What could it be?

[westnlas]

Which fan ? Is it a combination central air and heat ?

[bhelped]

Outside condenser fan motor 1/4HP-230v-825. It is a york heat pump model# ?

[Missouri Bound]

Is it just the fan that shuts off or the compressor as well? Did it do this before you replaced the motor?

[bhelped]

Is it just the fan that shuts off or the compressor as well? Did it do this before you replaced the motor?

Just the fan not the compressor. It was doing this before I replaced the motor and run cap

[hvac1000]

The fan might connected to a low ambient control that has gone bad. Follow the wires from the contactor. This is the item that turns on both the fan and compressor. Follow the fan wires only and see if they go directly to the fan motor OR if they go into another device.

This is a long shot since most residential outside condensing units do not have a low ambient control factory installed but it is worth looking into since the problem you are having is very strange in nature.

[bhelped]

The fan might connected to a low ambient control that has gone bad. Follow the wires from the contactor. This is the item that turns on both the fan and compressor. Follow the fan wires only and see if they go directly to the fan motor OR if they go into another device.

This is a long shot since most residential outside condensing units do not have a low ambient control factory installed but it is worth looking into since the problem you are having is very strange in nature.

Tan wire to the run cap, orange wire to the contactor, black wire to small black box on system board than another wire runs back from small black box to contactor and green wire is ground to frame.

[hvac1000]

black wire to small black box on system board than another wire runs back from small black box to contactor

Try to eliminate the black box. By pass and see if it runs then for more than 5 minutes..

[bhelped]

black wire to small black box on system board than another wire runs back from small black box to contactor

Try to eliminate the black box. By pass and see if it runs then for more than 5 minutes..

Tried the by pass the same thing runs 5 minutes and shuts down with cold air and all. There was a few burned bug on system board?

[hvac1000]

Interesting. That is what I have done in the past and it always seemed to work till a replacement part was available.

More info needed

Model number on the unit having problems ?
Exact brand name on unit?
Name and number on the control board (all of them are marked)

I will use this info to dig into this a bit deeper.

[bhelped]

Interesting. That is what I have done in the past and it always seemed to work till a replacement part was available.

More info needed

Model number on the unit having problems ?
Exact brand name on unit?
Name and number on the control board (all of them are marked)

I will use this info to dig into this a bit deeper.

Model# EABC-F030SE, Brand Luxaire, Control board Evcon 9218-374

[hvac1000]

I do not think you mentioned it was a heat pump. Different animal.

I could find nothing concrete on the web because while there a bunch of pictures there is no discrete wiring diagram.

If you have bypassed the board to try and get the motor to run longer than 5 minutes and that failed the I am out of suggestions.

When you jumped the wire going to the black box was it a direct connection to the other leg of the contactor?

Since the motor is not overheating I feel it is not a motor problem BUT a amprobe would tell the tail on exactly how much current the motor is drawing and then we could see if it is over the motor limits. (A motor does not have to be burning hot to trip the internal overload.)

Have you tried to raise the blade up to take a load off the motor?

Is it exactly 5 minutes every time? If so it could well be the defrost control board. Part number 9218-374 .

[bhelped]

I do not think you mentioned it was a heat pump. Different animal.

I could find nothing concrete on the web because while there a a bunch of pictures there is no discrete wiring diagram.

If you have bypassed the board to try and get the motor to run longer than 5 minutes and that failed the I am out of suggestions.

When you jumped the wire going to the black box was it a direct connection to the other leg of the contactor?

Since the motor is not overheating I feel it is not a motor problem BUT a amprobe would tell the tail on exactly how much current the motor is drawing and then we could see if it is over the motor limits. (A motor does not have to be burning hot to trip the internal overload.)

Have you tried to raise the blade up to take a load off the motor?

Is it exactly 5 minutes every time? If so it could well be the defrost control board. Part number 9218-374 .

I raised the blade so a third is in the hole and changed part # 9218-374 I still have the same problem. So lets see I have a new fan motor new run cap and new heat pump defrost timer part# 9218-374. What now ? The only thing that is not new is the contactor and the start cap for the compressor.

[hvac1000]

All I can say is if you hook that motor direct it should run forever. When it shut down the only thing left was the defrost board. Now that did not work.

Back to step one. Get some wire. Hook the 220 going from the motor directly to the hot side of the contactor and naturally leave the capacitor wired in. You can use jumper wires if you wish but the 220 volt power must not be able to be interrupted by any control unless it is the disconnect switch for the whole outside unit.

By doing this everything is by passed and if the motor only runs for 5 minutes you have a motor problem.

Can I have the info off the motor?

EXACT

Voltage
Rotation
Horsepower
RPM's

Then I would like to have all the info off the old motor.

Same info because something is wrong with this picture.

[bhelped]

All I can say is if you hook that motor direct it should run forever. When it shut down the only thing left was the defrost board. Now that did not work.

Back to step one. get some wire. Hook the 220 going from the motor directly to the hot side of the contactor and naturally leave the capacitor wired in. You can use jumper wires if you wish but the 220 volt power must not be able to be interrupted by any control unless it is the disconnect switch for the whole outside unit.

By doing this everything is by passed and if the motor only runs for 5 minutes you have a motor problem.

Can I have the info off the motor?

EXACT

Voltage
rotation
horsepower
RPM's

Then I would like to have all the info off the old motor.

Same info because something is wrong with this picture.

208-230 volts .25 horsepower 850 rpms rot. Cwle same as oem. The new motor is factory fan motor replacement fan. When fan comes on it will not get up to speed

[hvac1000]

If the fan motor will not get up to speed the only thing that can hold it back is to deep of a pitch on the fan blade which I believe you also replaced. The other way out guess would be if the condenser coil outside is so loaded with dirt in between the coils that it will not allow enough air to pass also causing the motor to overload since it cannot move enough air because of the dirty coil. (like I said it is a way out guess but over the years I have seen it a few times.) It really stumped a few service companys until we got there and then it took a few hours to figure it out because the coils looked very clean. Te dirt was hidden(trapped) between the internal coil fins.

Here is where a amprobe comes in handy because that meter will tell you if the motor is overloaded because it will draw more current than it is supposed to and that will trip the internal overload safety of the fan motor.

You might have to go with less pitch on the blade.

Circumstances like these is where a ON SITE trained service person with the proper tools makes the job so easy. It takes all the guess work out of it. Got any friends with a amprobe? That would be a big help for you under these circumstances.

[Missouri Bound]

Since the probmem was there BEFORE the motor was changed you need to look at reasons other than the motor. There is a control, a wire that opens, perhaps a contactor that open when hot. I'd quit looking at the motor for the problem. As Hvac1000 has said, hook up the motor directly and see what happens. I'll bet it runs fine and doesn't stop in 5 minutes. Then trace every thing back to the power source, every control, ever ambient or low or high pressure switch, every control which affects the motors operation. It's right in front of you, and it's troubleshooting, eliminating parts of the motor circuit that will find the cause. Do you have access to a schematic for this unit? Perhaps you can find one online if you don't have one. Still another place to look. Happy hunting

[bhelped]

Since the probmem was there BEFORE the motor was changed you need to look at reasons other than the motor. There is a control, a wire that opens, perhaps a contactor that open when hot. I'd quit looking at the motor for the problem. As Hvac1000 has said, hook up the motor directly and see what happens. I'll bet it runs fine and doesn't stop in 5 minutes. Then trace every thing back to the power source, every control, ever ambient or low or high pressure switch, every control which affects the motors operation. It's right in front of you, and it's troubleshooting, eliminating parts of the motor circuit that will find the cause. Do you have access to a schematic for this unit? Perhaps you can find one online if you don't have one. Still another place to look. Happy hunting

I have a new contactor to install if that does not work time to call a tech. Thanks for all your help not many people take time to help others these days.