[alanray2850]

Hello; I have quite a few silver certifcates,dated from 1928A.The blue seal is on the left and the serial# Z49929498A. It is in mint conditon,and it is signed by AW Mallon. And also a 1935 silver certificate,blue seal on the right. And serial #Q74542844C and signed by Henry Monrgenthau Jr. And a 1935 silver certificate 1935F,serial #Y07030958I. Blue seal on the right.And signed by Robert B Anderson, I also have several silver Certificates from the 50s. And I have two dollar bills and five and ten dollar bills from the 50s. Also Silver Dollars, Half dollars from 1800s forward. What are they worth? I do hope to hear from you. Thank You Sincerely Alan R.Brown

[excon]

Hello alan:

I don't know about your paper things. I have a feeling they're not worth much. But your silver is worth a lot. Even in poor condition, the silver dollars are valuable, and if they're in very good condition, they could be worth thousands.

But, you need to have them appraised by a reputable coin collector, because the difference between a pretty good coin and a great one is a lot of money.

However, if you just want to sell them to me for 10 times their face value, I'll do it, sight unseen.

excon

[Flying Blue Eagle]

Alanray2850- Hello there , & welcome to the site, it's a good one and has a lot of good people on it that is truly willing to answer otheer peoples needed help .I am the flying Blue Eagleand Im kind of the ( COIN AND PAPER MONEY EXPERT ON THIS SITE AS a lot of others will say (I HOPE ) , I have the books on COINS & PAPER MONEY & can tell you on their value for 2008 as clos as possible, I can only on what you tell me though, there is a coin & paper money Section on the gradeing of them ,Or if you can post them ,I can see them and try to make as close a grade as I can and their value.
ON the coins < what I will need is ( The year {date] The mint mark { some you will find on the back side , some on the bottom and some about the 7 to 9;00 pm area, some coins do not have a mint mark which is really from the PHILLIdelphi mint. & what kind of coin it is ( Quarter, half dollar etc etc. )
On the paper money -I will need the following ( The year,{DATE} and the letter right after the date:: The SIGNATURES< : WHAT is the denomition of the bill, :: Is it a SILVER CERTIFICATE , A Federal REserve Note< A TREASURY COIN NOTE, NATIONAL BANK NOTE,: :: A large size note or a small size note,:: A UNITED STATES NOTE < ECT ECT I will start in the morning on these notes that you have posted , its after 1am now :: Have a good night and GOD BLESS :: F.B.E.

[Clough]

If you would also like to come up with a grade or condition for the paper currency that you have, the following informatiion might be helful to you.

What is quoted below is to help you to figure out the condition of your bills. It is from the following site. 1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

The condition of a note is critical to its value. Lowering the
grade of a note one notch can decrease its value by 1/3 or even
1/2. An expensive note which falls between two categories might
be worth a thousand dollars more in the higher category than the
lower one. Thus, it's often important to be more precise than
using a limited number of categories.

But here's a general guideline. Note that many dealers have
slightly different grading systems, especially with various
sub-grades of uncirculated. There's no official system of grading,
unfortunately. But these are pretty much universally accepted.
I've received a lot of input and tried to hammer out the best
descriptions for each category.

Crisp Uncirculated, UNC or CU: This means absolutely not the
slightest sign of any handling or wear or folding or *anything*.
Some people use additional grades to distinguish qualities such
as perfect centering or other printing characteristics. Certainly
a note which has centering problems which are visible from a
distance of 1 meter (3 feet) should have this mentioned in the
condition description.

Almost Uncirculated (or About Uncirculated), AU: This means there
is a slightly detectable imperfection such as a counting fold on one
corner or slightest fold in the center (nothing which breaks the
surface of the paper) or a pinhole. At first glance it looks like
an UNC note.

Extremely Fine, EF or XF: Generally three light folds or one strong
fold which breaks the surface. There may be slight rounding at the
corners.

Very Fine, VF: May have several folds although the note is still
crisp and has a minimum of dirt. There may be minor tears or very
small holes but nothing which distracts from the overall appearance
of the note. Take an uncirculated note and crumple it once in your
hand, then flatten it out: this is a Very Fine note. Repeat the
crumpling and it's still pretty much a VF note.

Fine, F: A circulated note where individual folds and creases may
no longer be visible. To distinguish this from a VF note, when
inspecting a Fine note, it clearly does not look like a note which
has merely been crumpled a few times: It doesn't have the crispness
and brightness of a VF note. No tears may extend into the printing.
This is your average in-the-wallet note.

Very Good, VG: Tears and small holes can be present. The note is
not crisp at all. The is your lower quality in-the-wallet note.
Lots of people on the 'net don't realize that a note in "very good"
condition is really pretty lousy.

Good, G: Small pieces missing, graffiti. A worn out note.

Fair: Major tears, etc. A badly worn out note.

Poor: Even worse.

To grade a note precisely, it can help to hold the note about
20 cm (7 inches) under a strong light source (use the same source
for comparing notes) and on top of a white piece of paper and
use a 3x or 4x power magnifying glass. Make sure your hands are
clean before handling a note. This method will show a lot of
minor imperfections which are not normally visible.

Note that note from many countries have standard features which
exist for even Uncirculated notes. Some notes from Bangladesh,
Bhutan, Burma/Myanmar, India, Nepal, and Pakistan are only found
with staple holes where staples are always used to hold packs of
notes together. Most dealers list Uncirculated notes of this type
as having the usual staple holes (often abbreviated as uSH-UNC).

Also, some notes printed in France (for about 15 different
countries) have a slight crinkle effect.

[Flying Blue Eagle]

Clough- Thanks ,I knew that you would come threw, I just could not think of where it was at , Im going to have to write it down so that I can remember ( gUSS IM Having ONE OF THOSE SENIOR MOMMENTS! Ha ha , tHANKS FOR THE GOOD WORDS ;;; hAVE A GOOD DAY AND god bless ::: F.B.E.

[Flying Blue Eagle]

Alanray 2850 - Here are the Approx. values for the Silver Certificates you listed above . You need to go by what clough posted above, To give a more accret post I would have to see them in person or if you could post them on the siteand I could see them .
1928A - $ 1.00 Silver certificate , Blue Seal
Signatures - WOODS-MELLON
NO. 1601. - VF-20 -$ 25 .00 - UNC - 63 -$ 55.00
No. 1601*. - $ 40.00 - - $ 375.00
__________________________________________________ ____
1935 - Silver certificate - Blue Seal
SIGNATURES - Julian - Morgenthau
No. 1607. VF-20- $ 3.50 - UNC-63 - $ 25.00
NO. 1607*. - - $ 25.oo $ 400.00
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1935F - Silveer certificate -Blue Seal
Signatures - Preist - ANderson
NO. 1615 - VF-20 - $ 3.00 UNC>- 63 - $ 12.50
NO . 1615* $ 5.00 UNC - 63 - $ 17.50
Hope this helps:: Habve a good day & GOD BLESS ::: F.B.E.

[Clough]

As mentioned above, if you could post some images here of the currency that you have, it would be helpful.

Thanks!

[Flying Blue Eagle]

Alanray2850 - If you can post the other paper money and the coins, But you will have to give me the information I stated on one of my other posts above. And I will try to get you what you need ::: Have a good day & GOD BLESS::: F.B.E.