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New Member
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Apr 6, 2008, 03:11 PM
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One room dimmer installation / dimmer works but no power in room
I have installed a remot ctrl dimmer in one room & now all 2 of my power outlets seems not to work. The installation was one pole & I shut off the power to the upstairs area of my house by using the cirucit breaker. Once aligning all the wires & positioning the dimmer to replace the on & off switch / power back the upstairs portion of my house & the entire area has power as well my dimmer turns on & off but the power sockets in my one room doesn't work. I have uninstalled the dimmer to see if it was high voltage but all still doesn't work whereas what ctrl the power flow in the upstairs are still works. What to do ?
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Apr 9, 2008, 02:41 AM
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Well, you either made a wiring mistake somewhere, or one of the wires to the outlets is not connected properly.
IF standard wire callers are used, (red=hot / white=neutral / ground=green), you should have in the outlet box that connects to your supply breaker cuircuit :
1 green --> to all ground points in the circuit.
2-white ---> to all lights, outlets, and dimmer (depending on the type of dimmer). Also to any other distribution box (if present).
3-red -----> to the light switch or dimmer, and all outlets. Also to any other distribution box (if present).
4-black ---> (switching wire) from dimmer to lights
Just recheck the wiring!
;)
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Electrical & Lighting Expert
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Apr 9, 2008, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Credendovidis
3-red -----> to the light switch or dimmer, and all outlets. Also to any other distribution box (if present).
4-black ---> (switching wire) from dimmer to lights
Here in the US the black is typically a constant hot and a red is either switched or another constant hot.
This is determined by the installer.
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Uber Member
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Apr 9, 2008, 11:57 AM
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Either a Hot or Neutral came loose. Easier to recheck all connections in Dimmer Box.
If you wanted to see which was lost, you can plug in a extension cord in known good outlet,
Bring female end of extension cord near an outlet that is out, then Measure voltage with 1 Probe in receptacle neutral and 1 in the cord hot, if you have 120 volts, neutral is intact, then one probe in receptacle hot and cord Neutral for reference.
I would check box wires can break if nicked while stripping. Good Luck.
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Apr 10, 2008, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by stanfortyman
Here in the US the black is typically a constant hot and a red is either switched or another constant hot.
This is determined by the installer.
Thanks for that info! I'll keep that in mind!
(Here in Europe hot=brown, neutral=blue, switch=black, ground=green)
;)
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