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    Homer2's Avatar
    Homer2 Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #21

    Oct 19, 2006, 05:10 PM
    Here in the midwest, I have had windows installed in a couple of places. $189 installed. Vinyl double hung. With screens. Sounds to me like prices are a lot higher on the east coast.

    Homer2
    scri8e's Avatar
    scri8e Posts: 92, Reputation: 7
    Junior Member
     
    #22

    Oct 28, 2006, 12:57 PM
    An excellent site for window shopping. I mean shopping for windows LOL

    Compare Pricing Online For Installed Windows And Doors Instantly!
    http://www.thewindowsite.com/siteinstructions.htm

    My brother just had his windows replaced.
    He had his contractor do the deed. The contractor screwed up on 3 of the windows and on the patio door. The screw up was which way the window opens. The windows they could get
    Replaced at a fee. But the patio door was a custom order. So my brother had to eat that
    $1000 + door. Case in point. Be very involved with the window purchases. Thus the link above to do your homework. Also it is true that 4 screws hold in the window basically. Yes sealing the window both inside and out is very important if you plan on DIY.
    wildcatgirl's Avatar
    wildcatgirl Posts: 73, Reputation: 13
    Junior Member
     
    #23

    Nov 3, 2006, 03:39 PM
    I used to sell windows wholesale to contractors only. Some of the brands I carried were Marvin, Ellison, APC, and GAPCO. Here are just some tips that I learned while in the business.

    First of all, the contrator.. . Call a local wholesale distributor such as ABC supply or Marsh Building Products if you happen to have one of those in your area. They will be more than happy to refer you to some of their contractors. Then, I would call the contractors and ask them for names and phone numbers of window jobs they have previously done and call their customers to see if they were satisfied with the work. I don't usually trust the Home Depot's and the Lowe's or Champion as they subcontract out all the work. You don't really know who you're going to get to do the job and 90% of window failure is contractor error.
    Second, the windows themselves. First off, you must decide which astetic look your going for. If you want to have a wood window, be looking at future maintenance as even though exterior cladding is available, the interior portion will still require painting or staining. Vinyl windows are less maintenance, but you tend to loose some light as their frames are tend to be wider and you can't have that nice wood interior. I have seen some vinyl manufacturers with a laminated wood trim on the interior, but they seem somewhat of a poor quality laminate and I wouldn't recommend them personally. The most important element on your window is the glass and the seal holding that double-pane insulated glass in place. You can once again get this information from local wholesale companies. Triple insulated glass is what I would consider a waste of money. Triple insulated glass windows have twice the seals to go bad and make your window much heavier which is harder on the mechanics of the window. You want to look for a manufacturer with the widest space between the 2 panes of glass. It is the dead air between the panes of glass that insulate your window, so the wider that space, the better. I usually do not suggest gas injections between the panes of glass. Although gasses such as argon are heavier than air and do help for a period, they tend to leak out over time or settle. I do highly suggest low-e glass and azurlite tint. Both low-e and azurlite are uv inhibitors in the summer, but azurlite actually helps to warm your house in the winter by boosting non-uv rays. Plus, once their on, they are there forever. Also, if you look down between the 2 panes of glass on your sash and see black sealer, that is called butylpropolene or "butyl" for short. I would stay away from windows that have a butyl sealer between the panes. Glass shrinks and expands in warm and cold as everything else does and as it expands, it pushes butyl back. Then, when it gets cold and shrinks, the butyl stays in place and you now have a bad seal. I suggest going with a window that has an metal sealer. I used to sell a window that had "swiggle strip" between the panes. It was a piece of metal that was bent in a swiggle pattern and then had an elastic sealant on both sides to keep the metal from coming in contact with the glass. The swiggle was good because the bends in the metal made it stronger from side to side so it wouldn't bend.
    The frame and the sash are another thing to consider. In vinyl windows, there are mechanical frames and sashes, which are screwed together at all four corners, and there are welded. Most vinyl windows come with a mechanical frame and a welded sash. The welding makes the sash much stronger. You can tell if a sash is welded by looking at the corners. If you see overlap in the vinyl, it is mechanical. If you see a 45 degree seam in
    Each corner, it is welded. The frame should have a high damn. The damn is on the bottom portion of the frame where your bottom sash meets on what would be the inside of the house if the window were installed. Vinyl windows have weep holes to help move water outside of your siding or brick when it rains. But, if these weepholes get clogged, the damn will be the determining factor on keeping water out of your house. The bottom of the sill should also have a noticeable downslope to help keep drainage away. The mechanics of the window are another thing to consider. There are string and pulley systems and there are balances in vinyl and some wood windows. Many wood windows have a jamb that you have to push on to tilt your sash in. Although it is very difficult to work, it is the most reliable. A good balance is preferred over the string and pulley system. If you look on both sides of the sash, you'll be able to tell which it has. A balance does not only last longer, but if it does ever break, it is easier to replace than the pulley strings.
    If your thinking of installing windows yourself, here are some tips. When measuring, take 3 measurements for both width and height. One on each side and one right in the middle. Use the smallest of these measurements and this will be your "rough opening." DO NOT USE EXPANDING INSULATION IN THE CANS. As this expands, it puts a lot of pressure on your windows and can cause improper sash movement or stress fractures in your glass. I always suggest that once you shim your window in level, use another shim and just lightly push fiberglass insulation all around your frame.
    I hope this offers some good advice. Good luck to everyone on your home projects!
    beingteri's Avatar
    beingteri Posts: 27, Reputation: 6
    New Member
     
    #24

    Aug 18, 2007, 01:20 AM
    Whew, that is a lot to digest! I have a question though... Why are you considering replacements? You mentioned that you already have vinyl clad dual pane windows throughout. What is wrong with the ones you have? Most people replace their old wood or metal single panes, because they are inefficient with insulation and or built crappy and are heavy and stick a lot... if you already have the upgraded version... save the money.

    I don't know where you live bgolfer, but you might want to check if you have any wholesale direct warehouses in your area or builders warehouses that you could get a deep discount on quantity, or negotiate a deal for a certain number, then ask a few of your neighbors and friends if they were considering replacing their windows... and go in on a deal to get a huge lot at a volume discount!
    fizzlebent's Avatar
    fizzlebent Posts: 40, Reputation: 2
    Junior Member
     
    #25

    Dec 2, 2007, 07:26 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by pmed70
    john,
    im an installer in the northeast i can tell you the window will cost you between $160 - $240 each depending on your options, Low-E glass, argon filled, dbl locks, full or half screen, dividers????, then avg install is $100 - $150
    per window total avg is about $360 each installed, if your handy you could do them yourself take about 1/2 hr each for experienced, about 1 hr inexperienced per window, no matter what the key is to make sure these windows get sealed properly, these prices are providing there is minimal work on the inner and outer trim.
    (I Agree with this Price as to install and them being Wrapped or cased out with Coil. At least this is the price we charge in the South East):)
    mrhomeowner's Avatar
    mrhomeowner Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #26

    Mar 27, 2008, 07:41 AM
    We currently have APC Building Products solid vinyl prime window system and are looking for who may now have these windows (manuf. That is) to find out some info. On them. Can anyone help or know who may now have these windows?

    Tks.
    D
    sonuinfy's Avatar
    sonuinfy Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #27

    Feb 20, 2011, 09:38 AM
    Replacement Windows Tampa
    http://www.betterviewwindow.com/Windows.html
    Click here if you are looking in Florida.
    sonuinfy's Avatar
    sonuinfy Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #28

    Feb 20, 2011, 09:58 AM
    Comment on sonuinfy's post
    You can also try <a href="http://shutterstampa.com/"> Shutters Tampa</a>

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