[KISS]

The 100 W ought to be fine for the low speed. The light might light a little, but the fan should spin.

The idea here is the light bulb is a current dependent resistor. The idea here is if there is a short, the light bulb glows and the current is limited to the wattage of the light lbulb. It's an old trick. It basically prevents you from letting out the "magic smoke" so to speak.

Once you let out the "magic smoke" the device ceases to function, therefore magic smoke is the reason why electronics actually work. <G>.

[colinn1]

I am still slightly confused I am feeding mains 230v Live and neutral You say the neutral goes to white! The live goes to brown where is the rd connected.
When I collected this motor there were red/blue/white/orange /black in that order on a connector plug. Then there were two wires brown / blue separate from the other but the blue wire had a branch off to the connector plug and they had spade connectors on! Do you think these were meant to go to a separate capacitor and should I have one now for the suggeted wirng?

[KISS]

Gee, I wish you would have said that earlier.
Telling me you were in the UK would have helped too

OK, I'm confused too. The spade terminals are brown and blue. Yes/No?
If this is the case, then these are extremely likely the leads for the capacitor. You Definitely need one. Capacitors come with spade terminals.

Many times one side of the cap goes to the mains.

Can I assume that there are two wires on one pin of this connector?
One end of the spade terminal (color) goes to what other wire color (motor) of the connector?

[colinn1]

I am really sory I did not intend to mislead you.There were two wires going to the blue. Don't ask me why but I thought the white was for the fast speed. After tomorrow I am away for two weeks and may not have access to a computer but I will buy a 6.3uf (that's what is written on the motor) capacitor on my journeys. The good thing is I won't need an extractor fan whilst I am away .

Regards

Colin

[KISS]

So, that makes Brown to one side of the cap
Blue is a main and by color code, it is a Neutral.

Power gets applied to one of the three leads for each speed.

So, that makes Orange high, White medium and Black is low.

[colinn1]

If the readings are Black = 134 Orange = 175 White = 192\Why is orange the fast rather than the whites? Just curious!

Colin

[colinn1]

Forget my last message. You are correct, orange is the middle speed according to the control box!! I now feel confident we have cracked it thanks to your thought provoking contribution.
The problem is mine in failing to recognise there was a cpacitor required in the first place. I don't know if I will be able to get a capacitor before I go away for two weeks, but I assure you I will let you know the result in two weekes time.

Thank you very very much for your help, without it I would still be scratching my head.
I feel sure it will now work correctly.
Thanks again,

Colin

[ceilingfanrepair]

I don't like guessing with motors.

What motor was in the cooking hood originally? Where did you get the new motor from?

[colinn1]

Hi
Back again thought I would call in at my local elecrical wholesaler and pick up a 6.3uf capacitor! Wrong!! He tells me that I may need a 400v capacitor? Not a 240v that I asked for. The voltage is 240v and 200W and it says 6.3uf on the motor, what am I looking for?

[ceilingfanrepair]

It's not a bad idea to have a higher value capacitor than the supply voltage. I know in the US fans generally have 230v capacitors despite the supply being 120v. I don't remember the reason. Someone else here may know more.

[KISS]

Higher voltage is a good thing. Basically 230 V is about 322 V peak to peak if my math is right and that adds some sort of safety margin. There are problems using a 1000 V cap to replace a 16 V cap, but that beyond the scope of this discussion. The 400 V cap is fine and desirable.

FWIW: Capacitors in parallel add Ct=C1+C2+... Cn and capacitors in series use the formula 1/Ct= 1/C1+1/C2+... 1/Cn)

[stanfortyman]

Connect Neutral (White) to White (motor)

KISS, I am not trying to be arrogant, and I did not read this whole thread, but you are aware the OP is in the UK, aren't you.

I knew this from the original post and have kept away because of it.

[KISS]

Yep, found that out eventually. That would have helped if I had found out earlier in the thread. There was some new information as to which wires had fastons, so I'm confident of the last wiring determination.

[ceilingfanrepair]

It should be required on this site that you give your country of origin when you post. I too am not good with UK electrical questions.

[stanfortyman]

It should be required on this site that you give your country of origin when you post. I too am not good with UK electrical questions.

True, this should apply to all message boards.

I am not good either. I am lost after brown=hot and blue=neutral.

[ceilingfanrepair]

The thought rarely even occurs to me that someone is posting from outside the US.

[stanfortyman]

The thought rarely even occurs to me that someone is posting from outside the US.

With as many posts as you have I am surprised. I see this all the time on other boards.

[ceilingfanrepair]

I know, it just rarely crosses my mind. I always assume that everyone else out there is exactly like me

[colinn1]

I am awaiting delivery of 6.3 cap on Thursday, I cannot thank enough the numerous and varied contributors to my query from the UK, Thank you all!
I will post the final (I hope) results this weekend.

Colin

[colinn1]

Hi Evertbody
Good news Fan now running on 3 speeds for those interested the final wiring config is as follows: Black =Fast speed. Orange = Medium speed. Red = Neutral. White = Slow speed. Blue & Brown to a 4uf capacitor.
Once again thank you to all contributors. I hope I will be able to assist someone in the not too distant future

Colin UK