[jon123]

Hello, I gut main blue bathroom (35yrs old) want a different color bathroom but the existing cast iron tub is lightblue. I am hoping to get the best advice for this renovation. First option was possibly reglazing the blue cast iron(probably too costly and time comsuming) This tub is stardard dimesions size 14" D x 30" W x 60" L . Would it be best to just bust it out and replace it with a fiberglass hard acrylic finish tub or use those fiberglass inserts? I'm retiling the surround so I want to use a quality tub replacement that won't disappoint in the long. Can some one help me decide which designs are hihest rated or what is best for doing it right the first time? Do these new plastic/fiberglass acrylic tubs hold up well over the years? Thanks in advance!:)

[ballengerb1]

Most professionals do not actually reglaze the tub, they use an expoxy paint and many people are not that happy with the result. It's a matter of looks and wear, you'd have to see one of their finished jobs to tell if you'd accept it. The new acrylic tubs hold up well but will show scratches if you aren't careful. Swanstone and Mustee and a few others sell a model that is soild color all the way through the material, much better than a gel coat and will last longer. You can not buy cheap on a tub and expect it to last. Swanstone Tub Walls

[jon123]

Ballengerb1, I first want to thank you for the helpful advice. Now I am in the second phase of my bathroom renovation. The bathroom is 62"x120" to studwalls.. My question is, will I be able install the new replcaement tub of the same dimension (30x60x14) tub space on widow wall, there is approximately an inch of clearance space at both ends to play in a new tub.. The old tub was easy to get out because I broke it up. Now I am wondering if I need to remove a wall to get the new tub in? Again, the tub space is about an inch clearance at both ends( 62" from wall stud to wall stud) The tub is 60" Thinking of going cast again too if I have to open a wall. But is it possible to get in a steel or quality glass unit without opening a wall? Thanks once again!

[speedball1]

As a rule I have to take out the back drywall to drop a tub in, however, a lighter tub, such as fiberglass or plastic, can be slid in if you have the space to do it. Good luck, Tom

[jon123]

Tom, I think I will soon know when the plumber arrives on Monday. My dad says a wall has to come out if I am going to try getting a cast back in the tight space. With just an inch clearance at both ends, I am not sure if even a manageble lighter weight can be squeezed in without removing a few wall studs and the back wall! I can do whatever it takes, but should this be the case, I'm going cast iron.

[jon123]

Guys, as for sink and tub shower fixture faucets, is moen the way to go? I want quality but want to stay under 300.00 per set.. Those antique design brass models but want a head wand and wondering if they make the brass (dark brownish) for the diverter couplers or stem nipple from the shower.. also for the drain cover and trap for the tub? I have to research and shop online! Again thanks in advance

[speedball1]

If you're going to go "top-O-da line" a cast iron tub is the way to go. And my compoany has always used Moen faucets in our new construction Good luck, Tom

[massplumber2008]

JON... wait for me to repost.. I do cast iron tubs all the time. NO need to take out wall... check back in a few.

You said 62 inches space huh.. Then should have no problem at all. First, tub installation starts with a good solid ledger baord being screw/nailed into back wall. Then stand tub up and simply lower down so that the apron of the tub goes in between studs... takes two men to do this... but I am telling you with a little lift... a little shimmy it is easy to do (course me and my helper both weigh in over 250 :) )

How is this... :) I have never even had to smash a cast iron tub out.. in fact, I just disconnect drain and then pull tub forward so that apron is between studs and then just POP up and out. Then just wheel out on dolly (or carry out if feeling your oats! ).

That is the TRICK by the way... have to cut wall in front of tub apron to the next stud out... thats it, I swear!

Anyway, this is kind of my specialty... let me know if you have an issue... will try to talk you through... AND YES... MOEN is fantastic... when they say lifetime warranty they mean it!! Call 1800buymoen... and they ship part direct. Good luck and if my answer helped please RATE THIS ANSWER by clicking on button below. Thank you

[iamgrowler]

Guys, as for sink and tub shower fixture faucets, is moen the way to go? I want quality but want to stay under 300.00 per set..Those antique design brass models but want a head wand and wondering if they make the brass (dark brownish) for the diverter couplers or stem nipple from the shower..also for the drain cover and trap for the tub? I have to research and shop online! Again thanks in advance

I'd stay away from the polished brass, oiled bronze, pewter or copper finishes.

None of them hold up very well.

If you're looking for a finish that will hold up over time, then stick with the nickel or chrome finishes -- Nickel is used as a first generation plating material that is used to bond the finishes mentioned in the first sentence to the piece being plated.

As for the replacement tub; Have you looked into American Standards Americast line of bath tubs?

[jon123]

Tom and everyone else who are helping me ,I just want to say thank you all. I'm probably going to go with the cast iron American stardard tub.. I will most likely have to blow out a hole in the bedroom closet to get any tub in position.. will let you guys know how it all pans out after the plumber gets done. I like using the hardibacker board 3x5x1/2 for both the tile areas (shower walls and floor) Today, I repaired the 5/8 sub floor damage by the tub/bowl area 4x4x5/8.. Going to use the pl construction glue and preferred 1/14 cement screws after the plumber gives me the headsup. Once again I want to thank you all!

[jon123]

Mass plumber! I understand now what you mean! And I think it can be done exactly as you instruct knowing now what you explained. I can set the tub vertical on the faucet end ( rightside drain) and lower it towards left facing wall!. and shoud I even have to cut a stud or two from the work side of the wall, the bedroom side can be left alone! Cool! Lol excellent thank you so much buddy!

[jon123]

Growler the lady wants those Antique dark color faucets, but I believe you in every sense and especially knowing they don't make them to last these days.. will consider moen /america standard or any top rated brand. I want this qauality all the way. Thank you.

[massplumber2008]

Glad you are happy JON.. but I am telling you... try it in place first... ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE GOING WITH THE AMERICAST... THE AMERICAST IS EVEN EASIER 'CAUSE LIGHTER IN WEIGHT.

I AM TELLING YOU THAT GiVEN 60.5 INCHES YOU CAN DROP THAT TUB.. NO STUD OR WALL CUTS... JUST PULL FORWARD OF STUDS (two guys... one on each end)... and you have 62?? DO NOT FORGET THE LEDGER STRIP!

By the way... you want to really step it up to a pros level... set that tub in a structolite mortar or a modified thinset mortar (modified is from Ballengerb1.. another knowledgeable guy! )... even the americast tends to creak a little when you step into it. The structolite or modified thinset will stop this noise/motion and tile job/grout will not tend to separate as quickly.. Contact me via private message or here if you want more details!

Let us know how it goes. Good kuck!

[ballengerb1]

Jon, gone for a day and look at all the great advice you have received. I love Moen and always use Hardiebacker on my bath remodels, use their special 1 5/8" screws. !/2" Hardiebacker on walls and generallly only 1/4" on the floor unless you need a build up for floor leveling. You should have no trouble dropping a 60' tub into your space, not notching or stud removal needed. Cast is still pretty much the Cadellac of the tubs but you'll need to gather your friends for this project, could be almost a 1/4 ton.

[jon123]

Ballinger,mass,tom and all, I will certainly stay in touch to finish for this project. So far everything has been smooth and fun. ( need a 10-12 yarder for all the debri lol that mud wire is history! The rotted 5/8 sub cut away ( waiting for the plumber to do his thing) Today I putz around with the window extensions/insulation.. I will certainly use thinset motar and 1/4 notch for 5/8 subfloor for the 3x5 1/2 as the floor although solid is off a 1/4 dip in some areas. Structurely sound nonetheless.. the hardibacker site has a fun video installation and learned a lot today.. even YouTube has a lot of good educational videos. I am here in northern New Jersey. I will be using at least 1 5/8 screws recommended by hardibacker too knowing I am using 1/2. Thank you for the motar tub thinset tip too ( will probably go with a cast in anycase.. will listen what the plumber recommends and let you know before getting the tub.

[ballengerb1]

Hey Jon, if your tub has a flange sticking up then the Hardiebacker goes over the flange so it overlaps. Sounds like you got that covered with your lattice strip. After setting the tub in structoliite or modified thinset you should fill the tub and let it stand for a week before using it. There will be no creaking sounds coming from that one. Butt your hardiebacker right up to the drywall and cover that transition with a 4" bullnose if you are doing ceramic. That same modofied acrylic thinset is what you use on your wall tiles. Be picky with the grout and go with something mold proof like a Stainmaster or 3 part epoxy.

[jon123]

Ballenger your are incredibly helpful, I understand what you mean and will follow your professional advice. When the pumber is finished, no matter which tub I'm using, I will lay it into the structolite/ modifiedmortar after the hardibacker. The shower tile10x13 does not have the bullnose and the Lowe's guy said to just cut the tile.. but I',m sure I can find a border bullnose match anyway.maybe something really6 expensive! Lol oh man! Good night and thanks again

[ballengerb1]

"I will lay it into the structolite/ modifiedmortar after the hardibacker" Not after the backer, before the backer. This gives you an extra 1" plus allows for the overlap.

[jon123]

Oh okay ballenger, I understand what you are saying but even for castiron tub too? Had the plumber here today and he's going to do all the plumbing fittings HOPEFULLY SOON!. meantime, I'm going to tighten up the 5/8 subfloor with screws ,set some plywood mounts between studs for paper/towel racks and just continue looking around.. won't do anything until he's done. Still shopping for the electric fixtures/shower fixtures ,vanity ,sink ,bowl and tub. Thanks again have a great day

[jon123]

Not going to position the ledger until we decide on a 17 deep or what we had the 14 deep tub.. I think for resale the ladies prefer deep tubs.. we'll see,but iron cast we will go and I will use the structolite if you think it helps for even cast iron.