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    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #41

    Feb 17, 2008, 11:06 PM
    You know what else might work? I just don't know what they are called, It's a threaded insert with 4 tabs that have points. It might be a little better than the bolt alone method.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #42

    Feb 18, 2008, 06:03 AM
    You mean
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    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #43

    Feb 18, 2008, 06:30 AM
    Wow... neat... lot of work... but neat. If it fits up under shower with coupling in place... cool.

    Hey QL, if you try HK's tool then use putty... ok?

    If you go my route, use mildew resistant silicone and let dry well (24 hrs) before using shower. I know hand tight is not best here... why I am hoping that slip nut wrench will help... but strainers (siliconed in) do not need to be so tight that they start to squeeze the rubber washer underneath out of place... The compression rubber around the pipe needs to be tight... anyway, you decide QL... good luck.

    Check out the tool mentioned at pic. Below. Seems to be plenty of room at left side of ceiling to turn this in quarter turn increments. Anyway... good luck.
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    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #44

    Feb 18, 2008, 07:35 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008
    Then place the rubber donut in strainer and measure from the donut top to the pipe (with fernco or PVC coupling in place)..then add 1/4" to measure. If using PVC coupling cut the pipe...remove donut....prime/cement the pipe in place (someone holds against you downstairs) and then install the rubber donut...if you find this hard a little soap around donut will help to push it all the way in. I have even had to use dull tipped tools to push down onto drain. If that is all that came with strainer then simply click the strainer top on and good to go...BUT

    I am going to assume that you have a top brass nut that goes over the pipe and threads into drain... over pipe and rubber... to compress that rubber and improve seal around pipe with a small tool they supplied with drain (metal with rectangle hole in it). You would plug the drain pipe if you use this tool as so many drop this in drain pipe. Tighten a bit with pliers and then should be good to go for a long time.
    If I were doing this installation (confined close quarters and all), I'd go with a davke 3000 no hub drain assembly.

    Some Plumbers Putty, four 5/16" bolts to snug up the drain assembly and then two 5/16" bolts on a CP-200 shielded coupling to tighten with a torque wrench and you're done.

    This sure beats trying to get a big enough wrench or pair of ChannelLocks up into that joist bay to tighten the big lower nut on that 'No-Caulk' drain assembly in your photo.

    Just my two cents.
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    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #45

    Feb 18, 2008, 07:43 AM
    Hey growler (and I owe you some pics on bow vent... having trouble getting onto site.. they say file is too large and I have not had time to review how to convert).

    Hey, nice drain.. I have not seen that one... quick question... is that threaded on the end so can attach a male adapter into it? Or does it come in PVC? I am just wondering how QL would attach it to the pipe is all? No flex in this job... no room... why the no caulk is nice 'cause can pipe from upstairs... but please let us know how you think he can attach. Thank you.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #46

    Feb 18, 2008, 07:53 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008
    Hey growler (and I owe you some pics on bow vent...having trouble getting onto site..they say file is too large and I have not had time to review how to convert).

    Hey, nice drain..I have not seen that one....quick question...is that threaded on the end so can attach a male adapter into it? Or does it come in PVC? I am just wondering how QL would attach it to the pipe is all? No flex in this job...no room...why the no caulk is nice 'cause can pipe from upstairs...but please let us know how you think he can attach. Thank you.
    It's a 'No-Hub' connection.

    And as far as I know, it is only offered in brass.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #47

    Feb 18, 2008, 08:04 AM
    Nice IAMgrowler... I still think it will be hard to get into that fernco... UNLESS he changes fernco to a mission type clamp and bends the rubber back... then could work quite nicely. Still.. hard spot to get hands up there.

    Anyway, there you go QL... lots of options for you. Let us know what you decide.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #48

    Feb 18, 2008, 08:16 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008
    Hey growler (and I owe you some pics on bow vent...having trouble getting onto site..they say file is too large and I have not had time to review how to convert).
    Send me a private message and I'll give you an e-mail address with no limits on file size.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #49

    Feb 18, 2008, 09:56 AM
    Use this app: IrfanView - Official Homepage - one of the most popular viewers worldwide
    Use re-size image and type 640. 480 will normally be filled in if you keep proportions.

    Hk:
    Exactly, my thoughts.
    quicklearner's Avatar
    quicklearner Posts: 38, Reputation: 3
    Junior Member
     
    #50

    Feb 19, 2008, 01:15 AM
    No room no room no room! That drain that growler posted, there's no way I could get on the OTHER side of the pipe. I'm sure that this thread will become a repository of info for whoever has this problem in the future. When I searched I didn't see anything with pics, just a lot of "help!" postings. That's why I'm kind of "overdoing" it with all the images. Once I understood how everything was put together (and was told how to take it apart) the job was half done!

    So tonight's work...

    -vaccumed out the pipe and the shower stall

    -cleaned the shower stall w/ soap and water and then followed w/ rubbing alcohol

    -bought new drain, 100% silicone and pvc pipe from h.depot

    -loosened fernco from the top of the drain with needle nose pliers, also pushed hand down into drain while holding a snub-nosed screwdriver and was able to unscrew

    -moved the fernco ring back around to the front of the drain, so I could attempt to reach it from underneath to tighten it up later

    -siliconed up the cut pvc pipe and inserted it into the fernco

    -assembled the rest of the drain, putting a nice bead of the silicone around the shower drain lip. Went down to screw the nut and then came back up to look at the drain. Totally screwed it up (the rubber boot inside the drain popped up because I had the compression ring inside--- does that make any sense?), took everything apart re cleaned, alcoholed, and siliconed

    -on tippy toes, one foot on a ladder, with only my left hand, straining like a-- well, just think of whatever makes you strain-- leaning on the ductwork I tightened that nut

    -all done, and waiting 24 hours for the stuff to set. THEN, I'll attempt to screw down the rubber boot that goes around the pvc drain.

    Hk, mp, (and speedball in the beginning I think)... thanks you guys... if I left anyone out it's because it's 3am. This helps keep me busy and get stuff off my mind--- who knew plumbing could be therapy. We shall see what happens before I break out the sparkling cider. :D

    EDIT:
    (went back and re-read... how could I forget KISS. And actually, that eschuen guy was 100% right. There was just no way I could get that nut off. If I stuck a breakstick up there maybe, but who knows. I still say that I could have put some magic putty around the bottom of the drain pan--- you all are lucky I couldn't reach it to do that!)
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #51

    Feb 19, 2008, 06:28 AM
    HEY QL... are you saying you are done?

    Did you silicone the pipe before it went into the fernco? I don't think it will kill the job... but it is not correct.

    Other then that.. sounds right on track... *thumbs up*. Talk later.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #52

    Feb 19, 2008, 11:13 AM
    Congratulations QL.
    Hope you got that nut tighten while silicone was still soft. Nut should be tighten firmly but not too tight. Note MP advise about not crushing foam gasket. Incidentally acetone is the cleaner for silicone before it dries, scraping after it dries.

    Before you go near that drain tie a string to that tool you have for tightening it. You will drop it down the drain, now ask me how I know that.
    quicklearner's Avatar
    quicklearner Posts: 38, Reputation: 3
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    #53

    Feb 19, 2008, 09:03 PM
    Very funny you mentioned about tying the string... I took this picture *before* reading that post. The tightening tool fell down and I ended up tying a string to an old magnet that I had laying around. You can see why I was surprised at what else came up out of the trap. :eek: That thing must have been in there for 10 years or something. It's a crusted up tightening tool!

    Close to 24 hours, so about time to test.

    Yes, I put silicone in the fernco. It's not as tight as it should be, so I thought that would help a bit. Not a good idea?

    As far as the nut I wish I knew that it's not supposed to be too tight. I was straining and squeezing on that one.

    (and of course, notice the stuffed drain, after my fishing escapade)
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    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #54

    Feb 19, 2008, 09:11 PM
    The silicone on the fernco shouldn't hurt. Probably helps since I have the impression that you can't really get to the clamp very well. As long as you didn't crush or distort that rubber gasket you should be all right. It is what is is. The silicone will be you first line of defense.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #55

    Feb 20, 2008, 05:07 AM
    QL... I told you to put a rag in the drain just so you would not drop that tool (see old post)... but believe me with all that typing we have done.. is it any wonder a thing or two got missed... ;)

    Hey, isn't that a riot! The last guy that dropped that tool was not as resourceful as you... huh? Must have been an apprentice *smirk*.

    Anyway.. looks like you are there... hope it lasts a longggg time. You take care. Been fun
    quicklearner's Avatar
    quicklearner Posts: 38, Reputation: 3
    Junior Member
     
    #56

    Feb 24, 2008, 10:38 AM
    Total cost was 19.51... for the pvc, the drain, and the silicone. (ps... the wingtite is 65) Mission accomplished, and everyone who posted is responsible for the outcome! Now it is permanently documented for all who may have the same issue in the future... ;^)
    quicklearner's Avatar
    quicklearner Posts: 38, Reputation: 3
    Junior Member
     
    #57

    Sep 17, 2010, 07:28 PM
    Just an update... all is well since 2008! Thank you wingtite, and all of you on the board here. Like I mentioned earlier, had two (maybe three) different plumbers look at the job and talk about how extensive it would be and tearing out the whole shower etc. One seemed shady, but the others just didn't know about the options available. Ummm, wingtite! Just remember, even though someone is a "professional" they may not be up on the latest developments in their field!
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #58

    Sep 18, 2010, 05:46 AM

    Thanks for the update Quick. We always like to get feedback from a satisfied customer. Tom

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