[lmland]

Im just concerned that this is a never ending money pit. I really wanted to narrow it down to something I could know for sure before I throw more money at it. (as I'm moving in 2 weeks and am in no condition to be spending a lot of money) I really don't want to replace this relay that is 70.00 and then find out it's the distributor or something else.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Go to RockAuto.com--much cheaper ($46.79):

RockAuto Parts Catalog

ACDELCO Part # 212486 {#19113330}
RELAY,F/INJ CONT MDL
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 12 business days *

$46.79 $0.00 $46.79

Otherwise, go to a local salvage yard.

[lmland]

If there was a bad sensor, wouldn't the ECU be sending a signal for my CEL to come on? I was just trying to make sure that it wasn't a sensor.

[lmland]

When you are talking about the main relay you are talking about the PGM-FI Main relay correct? The part number you gave me for RockAuto went to Fuel Injection Pump Relay?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

PGM-FI Main Relay. You never told me if you had a DX, LX, or EX, or the exact engine you have; therefore, you need to ensure the part no. is correct. Basically, I wanted you to know where you could get a new part for a lot less than $70. Always shop prices and warranty.

[lmland]

I looked at Rock Auto.com the prices were great... but I'm moving in 2 weeks and need the part quicker. They charged like 25.00 for 3 day. Also I was wondering if a sensor was bad would the CEL be on?

[lmland]

I found a mistake I have made on a previous repair... one of the spark plug wires was apprently not correctly plugged into the cap. It looks like there's been really bad arching there because the cap is burnt in that hole (for that spark plug wire) and the connector on the spark plug wire is black. I need to know... can this have damaged something? I'm going to take the cap off and check in there for abnormalities, I'll wait to hear back from you.

[lmland]

I just took out the (brand new) coil and from my readings it is bad. Could the previous mistake I mentioned cause this? Or is there something deeper... I really want to know before I stick another 80 dollar part in there for it to fail 300 miles later. My numbers were 14.68 on the secondary and on the primary 1.8 (which to my knowledge that means the primary ready indicates a bad coil). I literally just put this part in about a week and a half ago.

[lmland]

Oh and when I took the cap off there was a white talcy powder in there. The ICM looks good, but it looked good last time it failed ( it was replaced with the coil about a week and a half ago). I know that one of the signs of a bad distributor is if the shaft is loose, but it is secure in there. Any ideas?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The resistance in the primary circuit appears too high. I don't think it should be higher than about .8 ohms. I don't know what the white powder is.

If the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires are not in kept in good shape (i.e. too high resistance), the high secondary voltage will be discharged on the electrical system itself. This will be the path of least resistance. This is how ICMs and coils often experience premature death.

[lmland]

I did just replace the plugs and wires , cap & rotor... so do you think it was the spark plug wire not being in there all the way... like I said there was black soot on the metal connector on the plug wire, and the hole for the wire to plug into on the cap was melted and definitely some arching had gone on there. I just want to know if in your opinion this could have caused the problem. From what I'm hearing it sounds like it very well could have. I just want to double check before I put a new coil in that I'm not asking for it to do it again.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If what you are saying is that one of the spark plug wires was not firmly connected to the distributor cap, then yes. The easiest way to ruin a coil is to stress it to the max by removing a spark plug cable from the distributor cap, while the engine is running. It's being forced to put out maximum voltage, which it can only do for so long before it is ruined.

[lmland]

Yes that is what I am saying. Looks like something that I overlooked caused the problem. One of the spark plug wires was not connected firmly, and I drove it about 300 miles that way on a trip. I guess that's probably what did it. Thank you for all of your help. I could not have diagnosed and fixed the car without it. It's really greatly appreciated! I will let you know the outcome when I get it fixed. I think I'll replace that main relay as well, it probably needs it from what I seen when I took it apart. Oh just one more question... since this has happened will that spark plug wire be damaged? Again, thanks for everything.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

No, the spark plug wire should be fine.

A final thought. If you ordered the main relay and coil from RockAuto.com, it would likely be cheaper than buying it locally, even if you paid for overnight delivery. It might be worth looking into. The TEC coils that I've checked out from RockAuto.com are OEM Honda coils for a fraction of the price. The TEC coil for your Civic (Part # 30510PT2006) would cost $42.99. This is the identical coil I installed in my Civic 19 months ago.

[lmland]

Well I went back to Shucks where I originally got the part... and they exchanged the coil for a new one. I put it in today and the car fired right up. I double checked on the spark plug wires (this time I didn't want the same thing to happen). I just had another quick question. When my car is idling, it will drop down to a lower RPM and it almost sounds like its backfiring through the exhaust. Then it will pick up a little bit of RPM and smooth out. Is this just because it is cold here? By the way thank you so much for your help with all of these ignition troubles.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Possibly. Make sure you are only using 5W-30 engine oil. You may need to check the idle rpm:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219948

The IAC Valve may need cleaning or replacing. Also, you may want to change the PCV Valve and ensure the PCV hose is clear, including where it enters the throttle body.

[lmland]

I took it back to the mechanic and it turns out my PCV valve was stuck and somehow my idle adjustment was way off. Thanks for the help.

[lmland]

Okay I went to pick it up from the mechanic and it purred like a kitten... then when I went to drive away it surged harder than it ever has and burnt up the third coil. The mechanic says this may be a shorted/frayed wire from the distributor... do you have any ideas why it's burning these coils up?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Very unusual. Go over everything that has been done. Ensure the ICM, rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs, and spark plug wires are the correct ones for your car. High secondary voltage is being turned on the coil itself and is destroying it. There's major resistance somewhere, where the path of least resistance is not through the spark plug wires.

Inability of the system to correctly jump the spark plug gap will force inappropriate ground paths through other secondary ignition components, such as coils, rotors and spark plug insulators, destroying them as well. Old wires can also cause misfiring under load. There may be a problem with the new spark plug wires you installed. Also, check the spark plugs (NGK only) and spark plug gap.

[lmland]

The mechanic just called me back and told me that the wires from the distributor are all fine, but I do not believe that I have had 2 coils that were bad from the start. Something is frying the coils and I really need to get to the bottom of this before I move and have to take the car over mountain passes. I did replace the wires and plugs the first time I replaced the ignition control module and the coil. The coil lasted a week the first time, and now it's only lasting a day. Do you think that when I left that spark plug wire not completely connected the first time that it might have harmed the spark plug wire and now there is a ton of resistance in that wire? Could that have harmed the plug itself?