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    Zedman's Avatar
    Zedman Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Nov 24, 2007, 05:37 PM
    Is an air gap required?
    I am replacing my sink (2-hole with air gap) for a one hole. I would like not to cut another hole in the sink. Can I get away with NOT having an air gap? I have a dishwasher and am installing a Waste King 8800 food disposer.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Nov 25, 2007, 07:15 AM
    Can I get away with NOT having an air gap? I have a dishwasher and am installing a Waste King 8800 food disposer
    Some local codes mandate a counter top air gap. This isn't so in my area, (Tampa Bay). We use a high loop and have never got a complaint or negative feed back. Loop the discharge hose up as high in the cabinet as it can go and secure it. Your drain hose MUST be looped higher then the flood rim what you are discharging into. All that means is when you run the line, strap it up so the loop is above the inlet of the disposal or whatever you are draining into. If this is not done the water that you discharge from the sink will drain back into your dishwasher. Iuse a 3/4" copper pipe strap to secure but a nail and some wire wil;l work also. Some models may have an outlet attached to the top, but most of them will have to be strapped up. You may connect to the garbage disposal, just remember to knock out the plug before you connect. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply. TOM
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #3

    Nov 25, 2007, 08:18 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1
    Loop the discharge hose up as high in the cabinet as it can go and secure it. Your drain hose MUST be looped higher then the flood rim what you are discharging into.
    Tom, if the drain hose "MUST" (your caps, mind you) be looped higher than the flood rim of what you are discharging into, then exactly how can a high loop be acceptable?

    If you're looped up and fastened to the underside of the counter top and the flood rim of the vessel you are discharging into is either at or above counter top height, then it doesn't take a degree in mechanical engineering to see that the requirement you specify above isn't being met.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #4

    Nov 25, 2007, 03:47 PM
    then exactly how can a high loop be acceptable?
    Bercause Growler, We have been installimng them for years in my area with no complaints whatsoever and have been recommending high loops on this page long before you showed up and HAVE NEVER, let me repeat, HAVE NEVER got complaint back from a OP. You ask.
    how can a high loop be acceptable?
    BECAUSE IT WORKS!! What's your problem with a high loop? One more time. Go back to the beginning and pull me up all the complaints and negative feed back on high loops. What's that? Can't find any? Gee! That must mean there aren't any. Now let's count the complaints on counter top air gaps. Opps! There's another one! You also say,
    If you're looped up and fastened to the underside of the counter top and the flood rim of the vessel you are discharging into is either at or above counter top height, then it doesn't take a degree in mechanical engineering to see that the requirement you specify above isn't being met.
    While looping a hose up to the bottom of the counter top may not reach the absolute level of the flood rim in comes within 3/4 of a inch of it and what idiot is going to run his sink over. You're nit-picking me Growler. If you're half the plumber you proclaim you are you will go by results instead of doggedly throwing code ,( yours not mine), in my face. In case you forgot, our function is to assist the OP to get things repaired the easiest possible way. Sometimes this doesn't mean following code if it doesn't present a danger or health hazard to the OP. Sure would help if you were a bit more flexable. But I guess that's too much to ask.

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