[Tyro]

Thanks for the reply, Labman, and sorry about the delay; I got distracted by other home improvement projects. I thought about rigging up a relay or other means to switch the "off" contact as well, but figured I'd check out a few other thermostats first before going to that much trouble.

To klmgb, sorry, I've already returned the Honeywell to Lowe's and tried another brand from Home Depot. I got a "ritetemp" Model 8030C and it works great. I opened a package in the store to check the instructions and it had a note about checking their website for instructions on hooking it up for a zoned hot water system with multiple thermostats, so I figured it would work. It was $20 more than the honeywell ($50 vs. $30). The website was no use, but I opened it up and checked the pins with a multimeter. It has a few more pins than the honeywell did, and one of them, "A" does exactly want I needed. It shorts to RH when the system should be off. So I hooked the Red wire to RH, the White wire to W, and the Blue wire to the newly discovered 'A' terminal. Now it finally works like it should. Plus it has a nice touch screen control and a much more intuitive interface than the Honeywell so I'm happy.

Thanks again for the help.

[labman]

I am not sure what a relay would cost, but you might not have enough of that $20 difference left to cover your time finding the relay and installing it. Besides, relays are often the problem when something fails.

Thanks for the comment on ''A''. I may remember it sometime when somebody needs help with one. Until somebody that knows a lot more than me shows up here, we will just have to piece the bits and pieces together the best we can.

[Dabok]

My existing thermostat has a Green, Yellow, White, Red, and Blue wire.
Green = G
Yellow = Y
White = W
Red = Rh and looks like a jumper to Rc
Blue = C

Is there anyway to use the RTH230B with these wires? If not what do I need to look for in a thermostat to work with this configuration?

[klmgb]

Don't know if it can or not, this is what the RTH230B says about wiring configurations, I can send you the instructions if you want to look them over

2.3 Connecting the Thermostat
The connection of the new thermostat should be similar to that of
The old thermostat; however, it can vary depending on the installation.
Note: The red jumper wire between the Rc and Rh terminals must
Be removed in 2- or 5-wire installations. The jumper must be used in
3- or 4-wire installations

Rh Heating power supply
Rc Cooling power supply
W Heating signal
Y Cooling signal
G Fan

[Dabok]

So would your recommendation be to get a different thermostat? If so does anyone have a recommendation? I wanted to stay between the 30 to 50 dollar range.

[labman]

My existing thermostat has a Green, Yellow, White, Red, and Blue wire.
Green = G
Yellow = Y
White = W
Red = Rh and looks like a jumper to Rc
Blue = C

Is there anyway to use the RTH230B with these wires? If not what do I need to look for in a thermostat to work with this configuration?

Your old thermostat uses the standard wiring. You should be able to use the RTH230B with it, although for reasons I don't understand, many seen to have trouble. The C terminal, often with a blue wire connected to it is the common side of the transformer. Not sure how, but some thermostats get along without it. RC and RH are red cooling and red heating for separate transformers for heating and cooling. With only one transformer, you connect both to the same red wire.

[Crazy8]

Help if anyone has an idea!

Thanks in advance.

This is for a Ruud upstairs heat pump unit:

The wires connected on the White Rodgers are as follows:

Yellow to the Y Terminal
White to W2 Terminal
Orange to the O terminal
Green to the G Terminal
Brown to the C Terminal
Red to a terminal that seems to be not marked but looks to control whether it is heat, off, or cold selected on the White Rodgers

The RTH has 5 Wires to possibly connect with no clear language on what goes in the Rc/Rh nor any explanation on how to deal with 6 wires connected.

Is one of the wires connected to the White Rodgers a dead or dummy wire or do I put two of them into one of the five terminals on the Honeywell or do I need a 6 wire capable Honeywell?

Thanks again for any insight.

[labman]

The heat/cooling switch on a conventional furnace/A/C only controls whether the double throw switch is connected to the white wire for heat, or the yellow wire for cooling. They are both setting there ready to go anytime. A heat pump needs the additional signal to set the reversing valves to the proper mode. Usually that is the function of the orange wire. The red wire is usually supplies the 24 volts from the transformer and connects to R, or RC and RH. Unless the RTH230B gives instructions on making it work with a heat pump, you had better return it for one that does.

[Crazy8]

Great advice. I just read the info on the Orange wire for the reversal. It was in the documentation I found online for the old thermostat.

Thanks again for the information. It confirms what I found out and is good to have. I will be matching one up with the downstairs.

[rhybeka]

Sounds like a lot of people have had issues with installation of this digital Thermostat... I'm adding myself to the list. :) I have no heat, and I'm not sure where the problem lies.

My father in law was kind enough to install this unit yesterday to replace and existing Honeywell dial unit. They spent the night last night, and my mother in law swears she heard the furnace kick on once... but I have yet to have it turn on today. The temperature appears to be 63/64 and the base setting is 67. I changed it up to 70, and still the furnace did not kick on. The only thing the digital screen reads out is the temp, the time, and a flashing battery. I attempted replacing the double A batteries, but still no furnace. I opened the unit up, and the wiring appears correct. ( Red is in Rh, black is in Rc, White in W, Yellow in Y and Green and orange in G. Blue and brown aren't even stripped, but off to the side.) I also believe they attempted to get assistance on this from Lowe's... I'm just concerned about the furnace not kicking in. Any ideas? Thanks a bunch!

[klmgb]

If it worked before the new thermostat was installed, I'm not sure what to say, but I had a similar problem and it was actually the door on the heating unit itself. Had a cutoff switch in it that prevented the unit from turning on whenever the door was open. Seems on occasion the pressure inside would bow the dor out enough to actuate the swith. I finally went out and put a couple of extra sheet metal screws in it to close it good. I had 0 trouble with the RTH230B, either installing, operating or prgramming and I wish you luck

[labman]

sounds like a lot of people have had issues with installation of this digital Thermostat.... I'm adding myself to the list. :) I have no heat, and I'm not sure where the problem lies.

My father in law was kind enough to install this unit yesterday to replace and existing Honeywell dial unit. They spent the night last night, and my mother in law swears she heard the furnace kick on once... but I have yet to have it turn on today. The temperature appears to be 63/64 and the base setting is 67. I changed it up to 70, and still the furnace did not kick on. The only thing the digital screen reads out is the temp, the time, and a flashing battery. I attempted replacing the double A batteries, but still no furnace. I opened the unit up, and the wiring appears correct. ( Red is in Rh, black is in Rc, White in W, Yellow in Y and Green and orange in G. Blue and brown aren't even stripped, but off to the side.) I also believe they attempted to get assistance on this from Lowes... I'm just concerned about the furnace not kicking in. Any ideas? Thanks a bunch!

It doesn't have a B or C terminal? Some of the reports of getting one to work mentioned setting jumpers and setting it up. If you have English instructions, go through them carefully. This is a furnace, and not a heat pump?

[rhybeka]

Actually, brand new batteries fixed the issue. Evidently I was having the same problem mentioned above somewhere and the unit didn't have enough power to send a heat signal to the furnace. Everythings working great now!

[ydoIhave2register]

Thanks Rhybeka... your post was helpful... For anyone else who had the same wiring as me...

Old Thermostat - Red R, Green G, Yellow Y, Orange O

New Thermostat - Red Rh, Green & Orange G, Yellow Y

Ahhhh... it feels so nice to have ac in the desert!

:)

[Scargod]

Same thermostat but different issue:
I've just installed a new boiler with a new zone added for heating my garage. I have B&G control panels. I have a Honeywell digital thermostat installed in the garage (RTH230B)and I am pumping water through a forced-air heater (coil/fan). When I call for heat the panel starts the zone pumping hot water through the coil but I have nothing turning on the fan. I purchased a 24 v. DPDT relay to activate the fan but it draws .4 amps (to close) and the B&G four zone panel only supplies .08 amps;--not near enough to activate the relay through the thermostat. I have 24 v. transformers laying around. Is there a way I can get this to work without spending more money? If I need a different relay which one will work with my B&G panel?
Can I wire this thermostat differently (using the green fan terminal) to use a more powerful transformer or will it conflict with the 24 Volts coming from the zone control panel?

[kensnake]

I have problem connecting thermostat switching from anolog 5 wire setup
Red
Blue
Green
Yellow
White
Gas heater
What are the coresponding connections

[Scargod]

I am trying to wire a Honeywell RTH230B thermostat.

The existing wires are Yellow, Green, Red and Black

The ports available in the new system are W, Y, G and the Rc and Rh terminals are jumpered.

Which wire do I put in the W port? (Red or Black), then what do I do with the one that is not used?

Help!!!

Green to W (common). Green is usually for ground or common.
Black to Rc (power common or power negative). Obviously Rh (high or hot) is for the red power wire.
I think the installation paperwork describes this...

[john821]

What is it with this thermostat and why are they still selling this model.

Just last weekend I replaced an old Honeywell with this model. Simple hook up, heat only. There are only 2 wires, a red and a white. The directions say to remove the jumper between rc and rh in a 2 wire installation which I did. This thing seems to have a mind of its own though. It comes on when it shouldn't, doesn't come on when it should. When it does come on it doesn't consistently go off once it reaches the set temp, it will continue to run. So it's totally unreliable. I've double checked the wires, the program and time am/pm. Installed new batteries. Nothing so far seems to work. This weekend I will replace it with another model unless anyone has had the same issue and was able to fix it. Is there something really simple that I'm overlooking?

This shouldn't be this difficult for a simple 2 wire installation.

[lenelson]

Great, very clear!

[Scargod]

I am guessing it is defective? I have five of them that are over a year old and they work fine. Most are heat only.