[sallyg100]

What do you think is the most inexpensive way to convert our tub to a walk in shower? The opening is 77" (a bench is at the end of a standard size tub). I know I have to break up the porcelain tub. I also need new shower fixtures for the old leakey American Standard faucet.

It's for a lake house that we rent out sometimes so it doesn't have to be fancy but it does have to be CLEAN.

Sally:eek:

[ballengerb1]

When you convert a tub to a shower the drains will not aline. You will need to move the drain or buy a show pan made especially for this type of intall. This would be cheaper than moving the drain since you need to buy a pan either way. This would be a good place for you to start. Shower Floor Pans That old tub isn't going to be easy to break up if it is porcelain, that's porcelain on cast iron. Get a 16 lbs sledge hammer for that job. Cheapest would be a fiberglas shower surround but I'm not sure they will be compatible with the custom pan. Speedball1, our expert plumber, may read this and have further advice. He has extensive files and pics that I don't.

[randynbear]

What do you think is the most inexpensive way to convert our tub to a walk in shower? The opening is 77" (a bench is at the end of a standard size tub). I know I have to break up the porcelain tub. I also need new shower fixtures for the old leakey American Standard faucet.

It's for a lake house that we rent out sometimes so it doesn't have to be fancy but it does have to be CLEAN.

Sally:eek:

There are many Pre- fab shower stalls that are inexpensive and very easily cleaned.In that I don`t know your location, I an but suggest a few I know of near me:
Like "home depot", "builders emporium"and "lowes" There is a builders supply of some sort almost everywhere. Best Bet? Call around and get some prices... oh and it's a very easy install requiring almost no trade skills at all * a very easy self install !

[ballengerb1]

Randy is correct about the availability of surrounds but they do not fit into an old tub installation. You need a special pan made to fit where an old tub was removed. Alinement of the drain is the problem.

[sallyg100]

Thanks guys. I see I've got more research to do. Do you know where I would get this special pan? Would Home Dept or Lowe's order it for me?

[ballengerb1]

Call these folks, I think it is part of their line. There are many others out there too, just Google shower pans. Shower Floor Pans

[pattyg2]

Swanstone makes a retrofit shower foor and you can special order it from home depot. I got white and the total cost was $255.00. You order either right drain or left drain. Google swanstone retrofit shower floors.. I am impressed with the sturdiness of it.

[ballengerb1]

Hey Patty, I see you here too. As you can see back in 2007I never mention Swanstone but started using them about 8 months ago and now nothing but them.

[pattyg2]

It didn't come with any paperwork and HD said they never come with paperwork. Just a bit concerned about that. How far back from the overflow drain do I need to cut to replace the drain?
Patty

[ballengerb1]

HD is full of beans, there should have been a 4 page installation guide inside the sealed box. Contact Swan Corp before you go any further. I'd like to meet that HD salesman. Swanstone Contact Us Is your trap a glued PVC fixture or compression nut?

[pattyg2]

HD is full of beans, there should have been a 4 page installation guide inside the sealed box. Contact Swan Corp before you go any further. I'd like to meet that HD salesman. Swanstone Contact Us Is your trap a glued PVC fixture or compression nut?

I just called HD and they are going to get it faxed!
I don't know about the trap. Everything I can see is metal.


Thanks,
Patty(53 yrs old)

[pattyg2]

I just called HD and they are going to get it faxed!
I don't know about the trap. Everything I can see is metal.


Thanks,
Patty(53 yrs old)

I just added a better picture!

[ballengerb1]

Kind of dumb of me to not ask if this was in concrete, makes things a bit sticky. Your trap is buried in the cement. I may need to back off and let a licensed plumber step up to the plate since I have bot done this particular install. If you look at the underside of the Swanston pan you'll see the somewhat large sump sticking down, I think it may reach deeper towards the floor than you old brass waste pipe. That entire assembly needs to be removed and that means breaking up that small patched cement area but lets wait for Tom or Mark to give you an opinion.

[massplumber2008]

Hi Guys:

Got your message Bob... see if I can add anything helpful!

I am going to assume you got the 60" x 32" shower pan (as in my pic.) Patty. Even if yours is different size, as long as drain is left justified, this will all work as follows:

As you figured, you need to remove that old tub waste and overflow assembly you posted in your picture.

Chop floor up around drain (hammer/chisel or small electric chipping hammer... see pic.). Open up the entire space around the overflow... dig down to find the trap underground.

Then, take a pic. And post it so we can see what is going on underground.

Basically, I am planning for you to cut the pipe just above the trap and transition over to pvc using a shielded clamp (see pic.#3). Then when you get the rough in numbers for the pan from home depot, we can see just how much of an offset we need to make in pipe to align to new drain.

That should be all you need to do, if this is what I think it is. Note here, that the drain to a shower should be full size 2" pipe...but for these RETROFITS most people are just increasing the 1.5" pipe underground to 2", then connecting to the 2" shower strainer as needed (and will work just fine.. I promise! ).

You never know... may be that the trap underground is 2"... that would be very cool if it is.

Anyway, open up floor, dig around pipe, get rough in information (numbers) and we will see what to do next.

Also.. are you planning to install this shower base in a base of modified thinset or similar.. I would... and I am pretty darn sure BOB would, too!

OH! And here is a picture of what the trap will look like underground (but will probably be cast iron... maybe..? )

Let us know your thoughts

Mark

.

[pattyg2]

Hi Guys:

Got your message Bob...see if I can add anything helpful!!

I am going to assume you got the 60" x 32" shower pan (as in my pic.) Patty. Even if yours is different size, as long as drain is left justified, this will all work as follows:

As you figured, you need to remove that old tub waste and overflow assembly you posted in your picture.

Chop floor up around drain (hammer/chisel or small electric chipping hammer...see pic.). Open up the entire space around the overflow....dig down to find the trap underground.

Then, take a pic. and post it so we can see what is going on underground.

Basically, I am planning for you to cut the pipe just above the trap and transition over to pvc using a shielded clamp (see pic.#3). Then when you get the rough in numbers for the pan from home depot, we can see just how much of an offset we need to make in pipe to align to new drain.

That should be all you need to do, if this is what I think it is. Note here, that the drain to a shower should be full size 2" pipe...but for these RETROFITS most people are just increasing the 1.5" pipe underground to 2", then connecting to the 2" shower strainer as needed (and will work just fine..I promise!!).

You never know...may be that the trap underground is 2"...that would be very cool if it is.

Anyway, open up floor, dig around pipe, get rough in information (numbers) and we will see what to do next.

Also..are you planning to install this shower base in a base of modified thinset or similar...? I would...and I am pretty darn sure BOB would, too!!

OH! and here is a picture of what the trap will look like underground (but will probably be cast iron....maybe...??)

Let us know your thoughts

Mark

.

I have dug about 12" of dirt and the trap is 2" and PVC. Looks like they put reducers to make it 1 1/2". They had a 1" layer of tar on top that I had to break through. After I Replace the pvc with 2", what do I do to cover it all back up?
The main pipe coming up is about 3" from the wall and about 11" to top of drain opening.
Getting too old for this!!

[massplumber2008]

Patty... great pics. Thanks.

What is on the other side of the wall... behind the shower valve..?

And did you luck out....PVC! YEAH!

And did you get the rough in sheet with numbers by fax yet..?

AND, once all pipe work is done, you will need to backfill the hole with dirt, compact it, and then set the shower base in a bed of modified thinset mortar or similar.

Tell me what kind of shower strainer assembly came with the base.. A picture of the NEW drain assembly would also help. Hopefully it is a NO CALK type... but let's see another pic.

You're almost there!

Let me know. I will be back on at 8:30 ish tonight... will give more details then... Mark

[pattyg2]

The kitchen is behind the plumbing. I am planning to insulate all the walls in the bathroom followed by 15lb felt-cement board and porcelain tiles.

What is the easiest way to cut that pvc since there isn't a lot of room?
The tub is a 32x60 left drain(SS FR3260L) and I believe it is a no caulk drain.
Do I have to put some kind of vapor barrior over the hole I dug to China?
Thank You so very much,
Patty

[massplumber2008]

Hey Patty:

Should not be a need for a vapor barrier at hole this size... just fill, compact, then spread the modified thinset mortar or STRUCTOLITE PERLITED GYPSUM (SEE PIC.) over hole and entire area of shower base (about 2 inches thick).. then set the shower floor level front to back and left to right (don't step in base for 24-48 hrs... depending on what you use to set your shower base in).

The shower strainer in shower base is a no calk drain... that is good because will allow you stub up drain pipe longer than needed, then can set/slide the shower base over the pipe, set into the base setting material, level base as mentioned, then slide the rubber compression sleeve down tight, then CUT the pipe off later (need an inside pipe cutter for this... see pic. #2).

But first we have BIG issue with PVC drain in floor.

From what I can see at this point you are going to need to remove the 2" ptrap, install a 2" coupling and a new 2" ptrap (no cleanout on trap) at the appropriate alignment to drain.

See, I don't think that you can fit an 1.5" x 2" pvc bushing (or reducer...bushing gains more room) and (2) 2" street 45 degree fittings to offset the drain into alignment with the new shower drain assembly.

You can certainly try to see if will work... just pick up the bushing and a reducer and the street 45s (and a couple regular 45s, too) I mentioned and try to dry fit and see if will align to drain as needed... THAT IS WHAT I WOULD DO, DRY FIT ALL OF THIS FIRST. Dry fit the fittings, then lower shower pan onto pipe and see if works.

The PVC list for home depot includes: (1) 1.5" x 2" bushing, (1) 1.5" x 2" reducer , (2) 2" 45s, (2) 2" street 45s, (1) 2" coupling, (2) 2" street 22.5 s, (1) 2" ptrap (no cleanout), (1) can cement, (1) can primer, a 2' piece 2" pvc pipe... Don't forget the inside cutter and a bag or two of structolite mortar (or modified thinset mortar.. available pre-mixed). Use any of these to see if can get alignment (you will have extra fittings left over... obviously).

To dry fit, you will need that inside pipe cutter I posted (sets into drill) to cut the pipes in ground... here, you will cut about 1" above the lowest fitting out of the trap (above attached coupling) and then install the 1.5" above the lowest fitting out of the trap (above attached coupling) and then install the 1.5" reducing bushing and other fittings. You will need to cut the piece of pipe coming out of trap a few times to get to the point that is 1" above the coupling (this is good as gives you PRACTICE cutting inside pipe. Practice keeping cut square).

If that doesn't work... need to chop out some more floor (under wall a bit) then dig out some more dirt and then will need to cut the 2" reducing bushing and other fittings. You will need to cut the piece of pipe coming out of trap a few times to get to the point that is 1" pipe first... want that cut straight as only have a 3/4" pipe behind the trap.....you will also use that inside cutter for this...VERY tricky though..so practice cutting around a piece of 2" coupling.

All depends on what you find now... what the rough in is for new shower vs where pipes located, etc.

Sorry not easier... but looks like it is going to be very nice when it is done (setting base in structolite or modified thinset mortar is going to make a huge difference!! ).

Let us know what you think... ok? YOU sure you still want to do this without help... ;) If so.. I applaud you... If not... I understand ;)

Talk soon... Mark

[pattyg2]

I now have a dumb question only because of the people at HD who didn't know what Redguard was. It was sitting on the shelf!
I will be purchasing a mermaid dual shower head which includes twin manifold,arm and flange,hose,shut off valves shower head and hand held shower. Besides cutting and moving the hot and cold from tub height to shower height will I need to purchase anything else? Home Depot got me confused on shower manifolds and valves. Is the manifold where the hot and cold and line for shower get hooked up to and is the valve for the faucet?
Thanks,
Patty

[ballengerb1]

Mark, I just realized Patty has 2 posts going, I think. I was a little confused because on this one Patty tied into someone else's old post from 2007. Anyway I see things have moved along so I will too.