[ljm132]

Help, the tank fills up too much, all the way to the handle! And then starts drip drip dripping outside the handle connection into a bucket! But I notice that when the toilet is used a lot (flushed) it does not doing it as often, I guess because it takes a while for the tank to fill up to the top
I adjusted the sliding post along the tank fill/flush assemply inside, up down, middle, nothing seems to help! Thanks

[RickJ]

This is typical of a worn out valve (that floaty thing). Parts in them are typically replaceable but I never mess with re-doing them.

I would invest $6-8 in a new one - and recommend the Fluidmaster 400A.

[ljm132]

I don't have a floaty thing, I think I have what is called a metered valve something? I tried moving the sliding pincer thing up and down the thin metal rod, no help though.

Thanks anyway for your reply!

[RickJ]

I see. I'm not familiar with a metered valve.

... but the sliding pincer on the little rod will be what should control the point that it stops allowing water into the tank... so I'm thinking it's bad.

If the replacement for it is under about $12 I'd still recommend replacing it over hunting for repair parts to save a couple bucks. A good one will pay for itself very quickly.

If you can ID the make and model of it I'll be happy to look up the scoop on it for you.

[ljm132]

Yes, I would replace the whole thing if I knew how. I may give it a try, I will let you know, thanks.
I read somewhere there was a screw on the metered ones that you turn counter clockwise to lower the water level, I will look for that.
Again thanks,

[RickJ]

It won't be tough to replace, that I know... but definitely look closer for that screw... and if you see a name and/or model # on it while you're there, let us know.

[labman]

The metered valve sound more like a Sloan Valve thing. They are very sensitive to dirt. Thave a rubber disk the get old and stiff and limed up. Likely it slowly leaks after it shuts off. With the Sloan Valves you see in the public restrooms, the water just flows down the drain until somebody does something. Take it apart, clean it up, and if you don't like the looks of it, take it to a good hardware and try to find a replacement.

If you don't, it might be better to convert to a convetional float valve.

If Tom doesn't get blown away, maybe he will have better advice. If he does, AskMeHelpDesk will be a much poorer place to get plumbing help and in general.

[ljm132]

That could be it, that it needs cleaning, but here is what is happening, the float works fine, the tank fills to the right level, the float pops up and all is well, however, you can still hear water running just slightly from somewhere and about 20 minutes later, the water level is up to the flush handle level and it starts leaking out of their onto floor(bucket under it now), it is very slow but continuous, if it wasn't for the handle leaking it would eventually rise and overflow I suppose, or go down the hollow tube that fills the bowl. So I don't know where this constant flow of slightly running wate is coming from? Thanks

[labman]

I guess we have been thinking the leak is in the valve, which it may be. On the other hand, it could be anywhere between the valve and where the water comes in. Since you mentioned you have a float, why not flush it, and immediately pull the float all the way up. Hold it, and see if you can see where water is coming in. If the water level keeps going up, and you can't see it coming in anywhere, a joint under the surface could be leaking, maybe the one between the inlet pipe and the system.

Is the tube too long? With most leaky toilet valves, the water leaking in just goes down the tube to the bowl, and then the drain, wasting water, but leaving the floor dry.

I don't think adjusting the screw to give a lower level will fix the problem, just increase the time it takes the leak to overflow. Let's hope Tom gets dried out and back on line soon.

[fredg]

Hi,
Why not replace the stopcock valve and get one with a ball on the end?
About $12 or so at Walmart, KMart, any larger department store.
All you need to do is:
Turn off the water at the wall, where the hose is connected to the bottom of the toilet. Be sure to get all the water out of the back of the toilet first; use a towel or sponge to get it all out, so it won't run down on the floor.
Use some channel-lock plyers, or other plyers, to remove the bottom "nut" to the hose, going into the toilet.
Then, remove the larger nut holding the value assembly to the toilet.
Pull the assembly out of the toiled, and put back in the new one.
It's not very hard to do, and will save you many headaches in trying to solve the problem with your existing one.