[Wicked1288]

This project is converting a garage into two bedrooms and a bathroom. I had the floor raised to match the house and the bathroom is all new plumbing. The problem I am having is what to do with the shower drain. The plumber obviously made the pipe extra tall for when the concrete was poured. I wasn't there when they installed my one-piece lasco shower. The pipe is sticking up above the floor about 1.5 inches. It is also slightly tilted. From what I know it needs to be cut down. I don't know how much of a problem it is that it is tilted. The white plastic drain grate says 'oatey' on it. The black plastic ring goes around the outside of the black pipe and appears to have a threading around it to screw in to something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Bobby

[speedball1]

This project is converting a garage into two bedrooms and a bathroom. I had the floor raised to match the house and the bathroom is all new plumbing. The problem I am having is what to do with the shower drain. The plumber obviously made the pipe extra tall for when the concrete was poured. I wasn't there when they installed my one-piece lasco shower. The pipe is sticking up above the floor about 1.5 inches. It is also slightly tilted. From what I know it needs to be cut down. I don't know how much of a problem it is that it is tilted. The white plastic drain grate says 'oatey' on it. The black plastic ring goes around the outside of the black pipe and appears to have a threading around it to screw in to something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Bobby

Hi Bobby,

I can't see very much from your picture. Click on: http://www.oatey.com/shower_drains/index.html
And tell me is your drain isn't a #101 PS glue on drain. Is the drain loose in the shower base and can the base be removed if it isn't? If what I see laying on the base is a neoprene gasket,( there should also be a fiber friction ring) and a ring with threads you'll have to do one of two things. Pull the base and install the drain or go to another drain that you can install without pulling the base. See Wing-Tite; http://www.plumbrite.com/?page=faqs&...357b13eaa0aea5
The trap raiser should be level and plumb otherwise one edge of the lip will extend up a bit and you don't want that. How cocked is it? Regards, Tom

[Wicked1288]

Tom

I think it is the 101 ps glue in but can't be certain. The drain pipe (that is sticking up) and the black base under the shower are both solid in place. The black rings on the ground are rigid plastic (pvc? ). When you say pull the base... are you talking about the floor of the shower or the bottom of the drain. Pulling the whole shower is difficult it is already set in place with drywall, paint etc...

For the trap riser should I cut it from the inside out with a dremel type tool and if so go level with the shower floor or below that?

I will try to take some more pictues tomorrow to show you better how cocked it is.

Thanks
Bobby

[speedball1]

Tom

I think it is the 101 ps glue in but can't be certain. the drain pipe (that is sticking up) and the black base under the shower are both solid in place. the black rings on the ground are rigid plastic (pvc??). When you say pull the base...are you talking about the floor of the shower or the bottom of the drain. Pulling the whole shower is difficult it is already set in place with drywall, paint etc...

for the trap riser should I cut it from the inside out with a dremel type tool and if so go level with the shower floor or below that?

I will try to take some more pictues tomorrow to show you better how cocked it is.

thanks

bobby

Bobby,

Is there a putty or silicon jell seal under the lip? I see that there's a little room around the drain lip. Can you pull it from side to side a little or is ir rock solid? Yes, you'll have to cut the stubup back with a set of inside cutters. Anytime you have parts left over from installing something it worries me. Why do you have parts left over from your drain and where do they belong? Regards, Tom

[Wicked1288]

Hey Thanks a lot for your comments. It is a caulk-less. I just had to purchase another one to raid it for parts. I cut down the riser with a dremel and cutting wheel. Came out pretty clean. I cleaned out the inside very well and found the rubber compression piece was also missing. I used a little dish soap to lubricate and pushed the rubber piece in, screwed the black ring in to compress the rubber. Everything is done... no leaks. I am wondering if it would be OK to run some caulk around the outside lip of the strainer and the shower floor just for cosmetic reasons. I am not worried about it leaking the base of the drain is rock solid (screwed in good from the back side) I just want it to look a little better.

Thanks Bobby

[speedball1]

Hi Bobby, Sounds like you have things pretty much under control. Great job! Give yourself a pat on the back for doing everything right. Yes you may fill the space around the lip of the drain with Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk if you wish. Again, congratulations on a job well done! Tom

[Wicked1288]

Thanks a lot. You have been very helpful... give yourself a pat on the back for being such a great host.


Bobby

[Wicked1288]

All of my inside and in-wall plumbing passed inspection. However the city inspector for Phoenix, AZ stated the two clean outs just outside the foundation need to be glued. Doesn't this defeat the purpose of having clean outs. I can easily glue them in but feel this could be a major problem later on. Any suggestions?

[theBigkill]

Are they fitting cleanouts? I doubt he meant gluing the threaded plug of the cleanout in place (but then who knows, it doesn't take much to become an inspector unfortunately). Does the cleanout look like this?
+
If so then the cleanout body or adapter should the glued in but not the plug, never the plug

[Wicked1288]

There are two clean outs, I assume one for each direction. One upstream and one downstream. I think I know what happened. The plumber that I had to fire had a threaded one like you sent pictures of, the other side just had a rubber cap clamped down. I believe now that the threaded one was OK, but the rubber he wants me to install a solvent weld cap with a threaded plug on the top. Does this sound right?

Thanks
Bobby

[speedball1]

Hi Bobby,

Killer was right on target with the type of cleanout you should install ( and no, you don't glue the threads.) If the cleanout's next to the foundation bring it up to grade if it's out in the yard somewhere then bring it up within a few inches of grade and make a drawing so you can locate it later. The reason to keep it below grade is so you don't "behead it" with a lawn mower.
Good luck, Tom

[Wicked1288]

:)
Well the inspector came out today and it passed inspection. Thanks for all of your help guys.

Bobby