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    jardr's Avatar
    jardr Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Sep 4, 2007, 04:47 PM
    New Shed Wire
    Built a new shed want to run a wire to shed to run 2 outlets 2 inside lights and an outside light I want a switch to ouside light in house and also in shed. I am going to use 12/2 wire encased in pcv pipe buried at least a foot in ground. I need to know how to wire this up and also can I pull the hot off the air conditioner outlet box.:confused:
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    Sep 4, 2007, 04:59 PM
    You do understand that the AC box is 240 volts right? You should run a new circuit from your panel or even install a sub panel in the shed for safety.
    Flying Blue Eagle's Avatar
    Flying Blue Eagle Posts: 2,056, Reputation: 225
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    #3

    Sep 4, 2007, 05:25 PM
    I don't know how far your shed is from the house , but running 12/2 with ground will not carry enough amps because if you run too much on it ;{ something is going to burn up::" after a100 ft. you start loseing so many amps. Per foot.thats why so many elect. Weed eaters burn up.check with a local electrician.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #4

    Sep 4, 2007, 05:54 PM
    And there is likely no Neutral in the AC box unless you have an AC disconnect with a built-in 120 V GFCI receptical.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #5

    Sep 4, 2007, 07:08 PM
    If you want to turn the shed light on from a switch at the house, you will need to run a separate conductor for the light. That could be done by running a 12-3 from the switch to the shed light. Black always hot, red switched, and white neutral. From the light, you could then run 12-2 to the outlets, yes GFCI, and the switch for the inside light. If the A/C is fed from a 30-40 amp breaker, you can't tie into it with any #12, and likely best not at all. I think you should start at the box with a separate breaker.

    If tkrussell adds anything, listen to him. I wouldn't buy any wire until you hear from him.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #6

    Sep 5, 2007, 08:30 AM
    Using a #12 cable to feed the shed should be fine for a couple of outlets and lights, depending on the length of run. As noted, if the length exceeds 100 feet, the voltage drop may be excessive.

    I do not recommend using cable in conduit thou. Either use UF cable directly buried, or use PVC conduit with pulled THWN wires.

    You can go 12" deep with cable or conduit, ONLY if you protect the entire circuit with a GFI breaker back at the panel. Other wise cable needs to be 24" deep and PVC conduit needs to be 18" deep.

    Connecting to an AC outlet is not recommended. The circuit is dedicated and sized to handle the AC alone.

    I personally would use #10-2 UF cable, bury it 12", come directly from the panel, use a 20 amp GFI breaker at the panel, and you will have no problems.
    Flying Blue Eagle's Avatar
    Flying Blue Eagle Posts: 2,056, Reputation: 225
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    #7

    Sep 5, 2007, 10:14 PM
    Tkrussell , has some very good points ,but STATE AND LOCAL CODES , do supersede national codes. I also have been a licesend electrician for several years. I don't know your local but { call your locsal power co and talk to a eng. Also ask them aBOUT THE LOCAL CODES. CODES WILL DIFFER FROM ONE CITY TO ANOTHER IN THE SAME STATE
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #8

    Sep 6, 2007, 02:32 AM
    Fly, have you noticed my signature? I address the issue with local codes with every answer.

    And the Read First sticky post at the beginning of this electrical forum?

    Laypeople will do and keep doing their own electrical work, something we need to deal with. Think of all the people purchasing materials at the big box hardware stores. Best we can do is provide good accurate safe advice.
    Flying Blue Eagle's Avatar
    Flying Blue Eagle Posts: 2,056, Reputation: 225
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    #9

    Sep 6, 2007, 05:05 PM
    Tkrussell- I said that you gave some real good points, but I wanted to bring ouy prettystrong points about the codes I was not cutting you down, no intention.ok I do agree what you wrote back, I hate going in and strighting ouy something a lay person has tried to do ;''
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #10

    Sep 6, 2007, 05:32 PM
    No problem, I took absolutely no offense. Good to point out about local codes that everyone should check where they live.

    Wanted to take the opportunity to comment that just merely advising anyone that asks a question here to hire an electrician is most likely going to fall on deaf ears.

    As I have mentioned in previous posts, if anyone here should be concerned about doing their own work taking work would be someone like me. This is all I know, I have been making a living at this for over thirty years, and along with the crew that I supervise, we all need work to survive.

    I came to the realization that no matter what anyone's says, DIY'ers will continue to do their own work. I felt is was best that I do my little part to get as much done safely and properly as possible. I absolutely am disgusted when someone gets hurt or looses there home because of faulty wiring that could have been prevented.

    If everyone that comes to Ask ME Help Desk was told to hire a pro, there would be no need for this forum. Try to see it my way, have fun, answers as many questions as you can giving the best, accurate, and safe advice as you can. Good exercise for the brain box too, some of these questions can be a real challenge.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #11

    Sep 6, 2007, 07:19 PM
    Sometimes hiring a pro is the best answer. In some cases I say so figuring the word of an adventurous DIY should carry more weight than a pro. If I wouldn't tackle it, most DIY's shouldn't either.

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