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    icandoit's Avatar
    icandoit Posts: 46, Reputation: 2
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Aug 10, 2005, 03:21 PM
    How do the pro's do it?
    Kitchen is above garage and the sink is directly above one of the garage doors. The supply lines for the faucet travel through the floor joists channel and up through the floor to the sink. A section of the hot water line in the garage runs along and is clamped to the garage door header... about 36 inches before going up through the floor.

    I want to install a tee in that 36" section of the hot water supply line. No problem cutting the pipe. I figure I can use a hack saw or something like that, but sweating in the new tee has me stumped, as I don't want to burn up my header and I'm not sure how to get complete solder all the way around since I can't get to the back side of the connection that is against the header.

    Also, there is no play in the pipes to move them to install the tee.

    How do you guys handle a situation like this?

    Thanks... Randy
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Aug 10, 2005, 03:41 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by icandoit
    Kitchen is above garage and the sink is directly above one of the garage doors. The supply lines for the faucet travel through the floor joists channel and up through the floor to the sink. A section of the hot water line in the garage runs along and is clamped to the garage door header...about 36 inches before going up through the floor.

    I want to install a tee in that 36" section of the hot water supply line. No problem cutting the pipe. I figure I can use a hack saw or something like that, but sweating in the new tee has me stumped, as I don't want to burn up my header and I'm not sure how to get complete solder all the way around since I can't get to the back side of the connection that is against the header.

    Also, there is no play in the pipes to move them to install the tee.

    How do you guys handle a situation like this?

    Thanks...Randy
    Hi Randy,

    For tight jobs we cut the pipe a few inches longer. Then we cut another piece of copper and place it in the tee to butt up against the existing pipe. Before we do all this we take a slip coupling. (this is a coupling that doesn't have a ridge in the center to stop it from slipping) and slide it over the other end of the short piece of copper. Then all we do is slide the coupling over the4 short piece and solder. Since you are worried about soldering with a open flame let me give you a link that may solve your problem.
    http://www.justforcopper.com/cb1b.htm Good luck, Tom
    icandoit's Avatar
    icandoit Posts: 46, Reputation: 2
    Junior Member
     
    #3

    Aug 10, 2005, 09:35 PM
    Great link, Tom. I didn't know that stuff even existed, but I do have a few questions.

    Have you used it before?
    How durable is it after it has cured?
    Ever see a JFC bonded connection fail?

    Thanks Tom.

    Randy
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #4

    Aug 11, 2005, 07:10 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by icandoit
    Great link, Tom. I didn't know that stuff even existed, but I do have a few questions.

    Have you used it before?
    How durable is it after it has cured?
    Ever see a JFC bonded connection fail?

    Thanks Tom.

    Randy
    Hey Randy,

    I've never used the stuff. Of all the phases of plumbing I like soldering copper waterpipe best of all. You wanted a "flamless bond" and I checked around the internet to find you one. I hope it works out for you. Good luck, Tom

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