[doiturslf4]

Actually,

I found exactly what I need (HD didn't have it in stock)... see this link

http://acmehardware.com/pd-5824602-F...an-Switch.aspx

Notice the Description:

Model 21105:

3-speed Single layer Basic 4-wire application Split continuity function Operation sequence: Off, 3-L-1-2, 3-L-2, 3-L-1 UL listed

It matches my findings.

Switch ordered... that should do it.

Thanks

[Kevin S]

I had the same problem with the switch I bought. Problem was, HD only had one kind of SINGLE layer and one kind of double layer switches. For those with the DOUBLE layer switch problem you have to find a switch with a sequence of operation like this: ( or similar) 1-2-3 OFF
2-3-L High
3-L-1 Med
L-1-2 Low
Note that there are three terminals listed instead of two, this is because the old broken switch has a cam inside that touches three terminals unlike the new one that only touches two.
If you can't find the proper replacement switch ( and I searched a lot of internet sites) you may be able to carefully drill the old switch rivets ( this is for practice before drilling the new switch) and separate the layers to take out the old cam. Then drill the new switch carefully so as not to crack it. Take out the 2 position cam and replace it with the old 3 position cam. Line up the layers and replace the rivets with a length of paperclip, twisting the ends to make it snug but not overtightening it causing it to break.
Worked perfectly.

[miamibeachjohn]

Simply cut out the bad switch leaving 4 wires (blk, grn, gray, brn)

Wire them together using electricians tape and cap

Reinstall ---fan should be running on high speen now! If not you have another problem elsewhere.

Go out and buy a dimmer switch and installal at wall where fan/lite turns on.

Now you have total control, only lite will dimm as does fan, slight drawback

So work around it or your other alternative is to buy a new fan OK

[driller43]

I am having same symptoms and problems that you report. The old switch literally fell to pieces so that I can't figure out exactly what it did. I put in a simple 4 pole switch from HD, and had only one speed (fast) in one position; others were stop. But HD also had the split continuity switch as you describe: pos 1=off, pos 2=3-L-1-2; pos 3=3-L-2; pos 4=3-L-1. Result was fast fan speed in 3 positions, and off in the other. This fan has a capacitor type speed control in it and I think is a FASCO Gulfstream circa 1993.

Maybe some other configuration switch needed?
---:confused:

Actually,

I found exactly what I need (HD didn't have it in stock)...see this link

http://acmehardware.com/pd-5824602-F...an-Switch.aspx

Notice the Description:

Model 21105:

3-speed Single layer Basic 4-wire application Split continuity function Operation sequence: Off, 3-L-1-2, 3-L-2, 3-L-1 UL listed

It matches my findings.

Switch ordered....that should do it.

Thanks

[miamibeachjohn]

Simply cut out the bad switch leaving 4 wires (blk, grn, gray, brn)

wire them together using electricians tape and cap

reinstall ---fan should be running on high speen now! if not you have another problem elsewhere.

Go out and buy a dimmer switch and installal at wall where fan/lite turns on.

now you have total control, only lite will dimm as does fan, slight drawback

so work around it or your other alternative is to buy a new fan ok

As a follow up:

My fan now works fine except there is a slight buzzing sound at faster speeds
Does any one know why or how to correct this

[ceilingfanrepair]

Simply cut out the bad switch leaving 4 wires (blk, grn, gray, brn)

wire them together using electricians tape and cap

reinstall ---fan should be running on high speen now! if not you have another problem elsewhere.

Go out and buy a dimmer switch and installal at wall where fan/lite turns on.

Cap all four wires together? Use a dimmer switch? This is bad advice! Both of these things can damage your fan, and even catch your house on fire.

The only option for ANY of the above pullchain problems.. . Is to carefully note how you removed the broken switch, find an exact replacement, and wire the new switch in the way the old switch was. Anything else, and you're better off just getting a new fan.

Sites like www.ceilingfanparts.com should be able to tell you what sort of switch you need. Some local hardware stores have a good selection, some do not.

http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/c...-fan-parts.php has more info on ceiling fan parts including pullchains

[ceilingfanrepair]

Good news for the masses: I have finally gotten around to writing a set of instructions on replacing the pullchain in a ceiling fan. This should answer most questions, at least the answerable ones!

http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/c...and-repair.php

[donpata]

Hello-
Well I took the advice on some of the posts below and contacted King of Fans directly vian the phone (Hampton Bay's Tech Support Hotline number at 800-749-3267) and they sent me a replacement switch.
Lo and Behold, it works!
It turns out that the switches from the local hardware stores are not the same.
Call them and get yourself a new switch.

[ceilingfanrepair]

I'm glad it worked for you. There are many different types of pullchain switches that look pretty much the same. The hardware stores sell the most common varieties.

[b-dog]

I have this exact problem. I determined that the old switch has normally closed switch positions rather than normally open that the replacement switch has. I need to know where to buy the normally closed type of switch.

Thanks,
b-dog

[ceilingfanrepair]

Some hardware stores have a variety, or you can try the manufacturer of your fan. Otherwise www.ceilingfanparts.com has a good selection of switches reasonably.

[vinnysf]

When the pull cord came out of my 3-spd ceiling fan I replaced the switch. The wires in the fan were soldered and I just pushed them firmly into the propers slots on the side of the switch... turned the thing on and nothing... I jiggled the wires a little bit and that was the problem... even though they are firmly in the slots its very easy for them to not connect on the inside...

Just try jiggling the wires around a bit and it will probably work

[ceilingfanrepair]

That won't solve the problem when the chain breaks, and/or when it is replaced with an incorrect replacement switch.

http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/c...and-repair.php

[BillCor]

Hello,

I had EXACTLY the same problem today, i.e.:

- Fan switch failed
- Replaced with 4-wire Home Depot switch
- Fan doesn't run and "hums" in one switch position

I took both switches apart and found that, as one poster has already mentioned, the old switch had NORMALLY CLOSED contacts, and the new one had NORMALLY OPEN contacts.

The good news is that the parts that differ are, with a little modification, interchangeable between the two switches - even though they don't look as if they had the same manufacturer. So if you're prepared to do a little filing, you can fix it TODAY (as I did).

What I did (after writing down which color wires went to L, 1, 2 & 3, as appropriately emphasized above) was to open up each switch by drilling the flared ends off the two aluminum rivets of the old one, and by prying the black plastic "keepers" over the white plastic "clips" on the new one (a little tricky - do it carefully lest you stab yourself or break the plastic beyond repair). The switches will break into two parts, which I'll call the "pullchain/tumbler" half and the "armature/contacts" half.

Then, I removed the red "armature" from the new switch's armature/contact half, and the black one from the same half of the old switch, noting which way they faced. You'll see that each armature has a square hole on one side; this is what is driven by the "pullchain/tumbler" half of each switch, and so faces outward from the case when reassembled.

These armatures are what differ. If you look at them carefully, you'll see that in the old switch, the common brush is connected to all but one of the other contacts at all times, and that in the new one, the common connects to only one other contact at a time. You should also see that the old armature is a little longer than the new one, which prevents interchanging them - unless you shorten the old one a bit.

What I did, which worked, was to line up an imaginary line between the upper and lower contacts on each armature, then file the old (black) one as necessary on each end so that it was the same length as the new one. I then installed the filed old armature in the new switch case, snapped it back together, wired it up as it was previously wired, and tested it... All good!

[Stratmando]

Summary, Sounds like differernt internal switching, Direct replacement best,
Like above, Carefully take apart, so you can switch, Do continuity test.
I believe 1 of the switches, does L+1+2, L+1+3, L+2+3, off.
Since Fan worked before, Switch likely problem.

[ceilingfanrepair]

It can be done, I've done it before, but I find it easier simply to use the correct replacement switch. Then again, I have a large box of switches in my basement.

[JIMTHOMAS]

Your problem is likely to be the capacitor that is wired to the switch. It is usually a small black plastic box with 3 wires (yellow, red, and purple) which is wired to the switch. The small rectangular plastic box has 2 capacitors in it (like 2.25 & 3.3 microfarad caps) and is tucked in the wiring near the pull chain switch). Will cost about $12 at a fan store.

[ceilingfanrepair]

The capacitor failing can create the symptoms you describe however seeing as the fan was working before the pullchain was replaced, it's NOT the capacitor.

Ceiling fan capactors - troubleshooting and resources - Ceiling Fans N More

[Stratmando]

Can you dissasemble switch, and reinstall chain. Many newer ones can't unless you want to drill rivets. Can be done.

[dseaberg]

I just recently replaced a 4-wire (3-speed)
Ceiling fan switch on my ceiling fan. The chain had broken off inside the switch.
After installing the new switch, the fan wouldn't turn
At all. I have tried the swithes at all speeds
And even went out and purchased another switch thinking the first one I bought may have been defective. I am certain I have the new switch wired the same as the old one as I cut off and restripped the wires (so the wires were still on the old switch).
The fan still won't turn (however I can hear a hum in one of the switch positions).