[T-Top]

The wiring looks right on the contactor and run capacitor. You said the old contactor was welded shut and bad(the question is why did it go bad). This is just a guess but if the windings in the fan motor short out and not go to ground it will give you feed back and make the compressor and fan motor run. Take the black wire from the fan motor on the defrost board off (I think its OF2 black wire). Tape it off and make sure it will not go to ground. Turn the breaker back on, if its not running turn it on at the T-stat only the compressor should run at this time, if that works you have a fan motor that is getting ready to go to equipment ground. A true test on the fan motor will be to ohm out the black and yellow wires on the motor( with the wires disconected from the contactor and run capacitor).

[shoe]

It was OF2. I took it off, flipped the breaker and only the compressor kicked on. The thermostat was still off.

Note: The old contactor was stuck open and the unit would not come on. When I pushed it in, it closed, and there was a small spark. I had to pry the contactor back open (with the power off) and then I immediately replaced it because it did not slide in and out easily. I think it went bad because I did not use my electric heat that much in the winter.

[T-Top]

The only thing left is the run capacitor. I have seen them go bad and make the fan run all the time but not with the compressor. Its hard to say with out hands on. I would take the run capacitor to the local hvac company and have them test it, they should do it for free it takes about 5 seconds to find out if its bad or good.

[shoe]

Thanks again for all of your help as well as the others. I will do this on Monday when they open and let you know what happens.

Scott

[T-Top]

One more test you can run and it's a stab in the dark(and I'm in the dark now) is to ohm out from 22 or 23 on the contactor to the ground wire or refrigerant lines to see if you have a slight ground.

[shoe]

One more test you can run and its a stab in the dark(and im in the dark now) is to ohm out from 22 or 23 on the contactor to the ground wire or refrigerant lines to see if you have a slight ground.

Just tried it, and it was not the case. Ugh, It is going to be very humid and 95 tomorrow. Maybe I should try to run it (with the indoor unit of course) for a short while in the morning just to at least see if I am pumping out cool air. Maybe it will fix itself <-- yeah right.

Shoe

[T-Top]

It won't fix its self, but if the A/C will cool turn the fan to on at the T-stat and turn the A/C breaker on and let it cool. If it's a bad run capacitor it will not take long to find out the fan or compressor will shut off. Just keep a eye on it to make sure the condenser fan does not shut off with the compressor still running. Turn the A/C breaker back off when the house is cool.

[hvacservicetech_07]

This is a weird deal, It is very tough to fix problems over the internet, but we have to be missing something, I have looked over the pictures several times and everything looks to be wired correctly, I'm at a loss.

[shoe]

This is a weird deal.

Summary of weird crap leading up to this weird problem.

1. Originally, I could not get the thing to run at all the first time that I turned it on. I also tried the electric heat, and nothing. All I originally got was a click from somewhere on the outside unit each time (I do not know if that is any help or where the click came from). The indoor fan turned on as it should each time I called for cool or electric heat, but outside unit was dead.

2. When I pushed in the contactor, there was a spark (scared the crap out of me), but the thing kicked on. It tripped the inside breaker immediately, the first time it went on if I remember correctly. I pried the contactor out (it was stuck) and I reset the breaker.

3. When I turned on the outside breaker, the thing was on and would not shut off. Thermostat off and contactor open.

4. Now, no matter what, the thing will not shut off without turning off the breaker.

So, after all of that here we are...

I almost feel defeated on this one, it is so freaky.

[hvacservicetech_07]

I'm going to have to really think about this one tomorrow morning on the lake... lol. Like I said earlier, something is back feeding somewhere, hopefully Northernheat or one of the other guys on here may have some other ideas.

[esquire1]

I'm with hvacservice tech 07 and T-Top. I done a lot of thinking on this and it has to be a simple fix if there to put hands on. But over internet it has been difficult. I'm sure intested in the out come on this one.

[shoe]

I'm with hvacservice tech 07 and T-Top. I done a lot of thinking on this and it has to be a simple fix if there to put hands on. But over internet it has been difficult. I'm sure intested in the out come on this one.

I will post the outcome when I get it sometime this week. Hopefully, we all can learn something from this one. Thanks again for all of the help everyone.

Stay tuned...

Shoe

[Air-Repair]

Check the compressor terminals on the compressor. One could have burnt off and shorted making the fan and compressor run at the same time. Its worth a shot:)

[shoe]

Check the compressor terminals on the compressor. One could have burnt off and shorted making the fan and compressor run at the same time. Its worth a shot:)

Thanks, Air. Good Thinking. I have been buried this week, with several of my guys on vacation, but I will try and trace every cable and look at the connectors when I get a chance.

I did run the unit with the indoor fan and thermostat on the other day for about an hour. I had to turn everything on manually, and I set the temp really low so it would not shut off. It seemed to work OK, the air did not seem overly cool, but then again, I started with a house that was 82 degrees and somewhat humid when I fired it up.

Shoe