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TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 18, 2009, 12:02 PM

Not sure I understand that last sentence.

On older cars, and especially trucks, it's not uncommon for fuses to be good but they don't work because of corrosion. Just remove and clean them with abrasive cloth. Apply a light coating of dielectric grease or spray with WD-40. The key fuses to focus on are #13 (Starter Signal Fuse) and the ACG (ALT) (S). Fuse 13 controls power to main relay Terminal 6, the second relay within the main relay. Did you depress the clutch when you tested Fuse 13? The ACG (ALT) (S) fuse control power to the first relay (Terminal 5) within the main relay.

gerrythrash · Aug 18, 2009, 12:17 PM

I didn't depress the clutch when I tested #13. Should I?

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 18, 2009, 12:17 PM

Yes.

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 18, 2009, 12:27 PM

Can you confirm that the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse is fine?

gerrythrash · Aug 18, 2009, 12:40 PM

OK... I just tested the ACG (ALT) S fuse... it's fine. I took the starter signal fuse #13 out, cleaned it, put it back in, depressed the clutch... and nothing. I also put a spare 7.5A fuse in that slot, and tested it... nothing.

Weird, huh?

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 18, 2009, 12:48 PM

I can only conclude there's a problem with the ignition switch, since fuses 7, 9, 11 and 13 are not getting power.

What do you think?

gerrythrash · Aug 18, 2009, 01:00 PM

It's very possible... even though this one is still relatively new. I'll do some more diagnosing and if I can't come up with anything, I might just bite the bullet and have it towed to the shop. And if it costs unreasonably much to fix, I'll probably just junk it and ride the bus until I can save to get another car. I guess I can't complain... I did get over 320,000 miles out of it.

But thanks again for all of your help. I really appreciate it.

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 18, 2009, 01:06 PM

New ignition switches usually cost around $65, maybe less if you shop for a deal online. I just had end links go bad after 18 months--fortunately, they had a lifetime warranty and I exchanged them. So stuff does go bad surprisingly early, sometimes.

Don't give up.. . victory is very close!

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 18, 2009, 01:20 PM

I just had a thought. With so many fuses not receiving power, disconnect the negative battery cable and examine the ignition switche's connector that goes into the under dash fuse box. In fact, examine all connectors going to the ignition switch. There may be corrosion/contact issue. Check things out and spray WD-40 on the connectors. It may just be a connector issue.

gerrythrash · Aug 19, 2009, 12:13 PM

Cool. I'll try that... and let you know what happens.

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 19, 2009, 12:15 PM

Great.

gerrythrash · Aug 19, 2009, 01:19 PM

Hi there... OK I checked the connection to the fuse panel and I didn't find any obvious signs of corrosion or anything... but here's what I DID find.

Several years ago, I had a car alarm put on. It later stopped working so I just disconnected the little box that the wires go to so I could start the car. Apparently, part of the installation includes clipping a thin yellow wire to the BLK/YEL wire coming from the ignition switch. This yellow wire is clipped to the BLK/YEL wire with a little plastic clip, which has a little blade that cuts into the wire from the ignition switch (my guess would be so some of that current will go to the alarm system). I took that clip off, and the BLK/YEL is partially cut through. So... I'm thinking my next move should be to cut this wire, strip the two ends and tie them together and wrap it with some electrical tape.

So... what gets me is this... when I had the ignition assembly replaced back in January... would the dealer just put on a new cylinder housing assembly, and left me with the same ignition switch/wires?

What do you think?

ID

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 19, 2009, 01:37 PM

Completely removing alarm systems is always a hassle. I know your problem only involves the ignition switch. Why else would so many fuses not be getting power? Since I'm not there to look at things, just use your common sense and go over the ignition switch and harness very carefully.

If splicing those two wires solves the problem, use heat-shrink tubing, not electrical tape.

It appears that's what the dealer did.

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 19, 2009, 01:59 PM

With the negative battery cable removed, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II) and run a simple continuity test on each end of the harness. That should tell you a lot.

gerrythrash · Aug 19, 2009, 02:38 PM

OK... I was able to remove the alarm system wiring (it was a Y harness between the 7P connector from the ignition switch and the main harness). I connected the 7P to the main harness, and tested everything... still no power to the fuses. I'll try the continuity test, and if necessary... just get a new ignition switch.

So... let's say that a new ignition switch doesn't solve this. Does the focus shift back to the distributor?

gerrythrash · Aug 19, 2009, 02:51 PM

Also... the other thing I'm beginning to notice is that when I try to start it, the cranking is getting slower and slower. That's probably a batter issue. Right?

PublicEmily · Aug 19, 2009, 03:09 PM

All right I'm going to hop in here quick. I'm a novice but an ingenious learner. Cranking no starting. 2 second CEL, hear the fuel, hear the click. I need to buy something to read the volts I'm guessing. Is there a place with a picture of the wires I need to check/ After I check all the fuses I guess I'll have more answers.
(I can't type a question mark for some reason... )

gerrythrash · Aug 23, 2009, 04:30 PM

Good news! I my car running! After I put the new distributor on... it still wouldn't start. So I then tested the computor, main relay, map sensor... nothing. I also noticed that it would crank slower and slower. So... that, and knowing that the car has been sitting for almost 7 months... I took the battery in to be charged. I brought it back, put it in, and after a couple more start attempts... it started! It was a bit rough at first... but now it runs like a top. I'm so happy to have transportation again.

Thanks again for all of your help!

TxGreaseMonkey · Aug 23, 2009, 05:36 PM

Good job! I'm so glad you got it running--the alternative was not pretty. I apologize for not seeing your postings on August 19th.

Did you figure out what was preventing so many fuses from getting power?

gerrythrash · Aug 23, 2009, 06:08 PM

Good news! I my car running! After I put the new distributor on... it still wouldn't start. So I then tested the computor, main relay, map sensor... nothing. I also noticed that it would crank slower and slower. So... that, and knowing that the car has been sitting for almost 7 months... I took the battery in to be charged. I brought it back, put it in, and after a couple more start attempts... it started! It was a bit rough at first... but now it runs like a top. I'm so happy to have transportation again.

Thanks again for all of your help!