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triptrop · Feb 26, 2006, 04:35 PM

I have two questions about electrical code for my basement finishing project.

The first question. In my bathroom, I'm putting a GFCI circuit breaker in the breaker box. It's a 20 amp. I would like to use this to power the outlets that are above the sink (1 outlet), another outlet in the adjacent utility room, and the whirlpool tub's pump. The specs on the pump says the following: 120 Volts, 60 HZ, 7 amp. It also says it requires a GFCI.

Is the above configuration allowed?

2nd question. I've read that I can put up to 10 devices on a 15 amp run. This includes lights and outlets and any other devices that draw current. This does not include switches which draw no current. My question is, is an outlet, which includes two receptacles, count as 1 of the 10 devices, or 2?

Thanks so much,
Trips

120V, 60HZ, 7 Amp

tkrussell · Feb 26, 2006, 05:28 PM

On the GFI, no problem, good use of the CFI breaker, I realize they cost a bit much, and again the circuit is fine.

There is no limit to quantity of outlets, either receptacles or lighting outlets on a residential circuit. The max outlets code is for commercial and industrial, but is widely used as a good guide. The DUPLEX receptacle counts as 1 outlet, and correct, switches are never counted as outlets.

triptrop · May 15, 2006, 11:42 AM

Another question/problem about my bathroom electrical.

What I ended up putting on the GFCI circuit (20 amp and 12 ga wire) is:

1. the outlet in the utility room,
2. the vanity light/outlet,
3. the whirlpool tub's pump, and
4. the fan and light on the ceiling.

As of right now, the devices for 2 and 3 are not present, so I've just tied the wires together.

For the utility room outlet, I connected the ground to the outlet, and pigtailed it to the screw going into the plastic outlet box. Although I learned on this board that this is not necessary, I will probably undo that.

Now, my problem. Just noticed this late last night and haven't tried too many different things yet. With the bath fan and light on, if I slowly turn the fan off - i.e. the switch spends a fair amount of time in the middle - the GFCI trips consistently. When doing this, I had the air compressor plugged into the utiltiy room outlet, but it was turned off (not just "not running" but actually turned off). The only thing drawing juice (intentionally :-) was the light and fan.

Any hints as to what would cause this? I presume something is pulling a lot of juice when I turn the fan off slowly. I have 2 100-watt bulbs in the overhead light.

2nd note, I had a big "doh" after I wired everything up because I realized I don't like the idea of having the lights on the same GFCI as the electrical in the bathroom. If it trips, you're in the dark. I might change this before it's time to drywall...

Thanks for any insights!

tkrussell · May 15, 2006, 02:27 PM

So connecting a ground wire to a plastic box is not necessary? Go figure!

Sorry, having a little fun at your expense.

When you say "so I've just tied the wires together. what does that mean?

You have the blacks spliced and capped and the whites spliced and capped? I hope that is what you mean.

Don't shut off switches slowly, they are designed to make and break fast, to eliminate internal sparking due to load at the contacts. This sparking, inside the switch, thou small, is detected by the GFI and is interpreted as a fault.

Only lights or fans that are over tubs or showers need to be on GFI.

triptrop · May 15, 2006, 05:04 PM

Originally Posted by tkrussell

So connecting a ground wire to a plastic box is not necessary? Go figure!

Sorry, having a little fun at your expense.

When you say "so I've just tied the wires together. what does that mean?

You have the blacks spliced and capped and the whites spliced and capped? I hope that is what you mean.

Dont shut off switches slowly, they are designed to make and break fast, to eliminate internal sparking due to load at the contacts. This sparking, inside the switch, thou small, is detected by the GFI and is interpreted as a fault.

Only lights or fans that are over tubs or showers need to be on GFI.

I don't mind a little fun at my expense. :-) The lines that are tied together - your assumption is correct. Black to black, white to white, ground to ground, as though the wire was not cut.

I still need the outlet above the sink to be GFI, right? Also the tub's air pump is recommended to be GFI by the manufacturers.

I'm not typically in the habit of turning switches off slowly, but my wife turned them off last night and it tripped, which made me want to experiment to see it happen again.

At any rate, I'm definitely getting an electrician to inspect and advise before drywalling...

Thanks again.

tkrussell · May 15, 2006, 09:13 PM

Yes the outlet at the sink must be GFI. I do apologize thou, in re-reading your circuit, I really should have suggested a separate circuit for the tub. If you try to use the tub and a hair dryer the breaker may trip from overload.

The switch tripping the GFI I do here at home sometimes myself, just beciuase the way I may sut it off. Can e a nusiance, esp since you are using a breaker, my GFI is right next to the switch, so no big deal to me. Just some switches do that. To eliminate, I bet you are using the inexpensive residential grade switch. Get a better grade and I bet the problem goes away. For me, I will live with it.