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Type: Posts; User: MOWERMAN2468
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Remove the blower housing, if there is a plastic cover over the top of the engine, some have screws and some have push snaps. Remove the top cover, then remove the blower housing which contains the...
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Check the linkages to the governor and check the springs that hook to the linkages.
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Check your belts for worn spots, and check the blades for warping. Also, it could be the bearings.
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You could buy a kit to put a lift on the rear of the unit and use a plow.
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Look under the housing that covers the area where the steering wheel goes through. Look low and to the right hand side of the steering wheel,(on the right side of the unit).
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The width of a business card usually works well for the spacing of the coil to the flywheel.
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See the sticky at the top of the page.
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Not sure of all the details here. But the dying could be caused by the carb, the governor, fuel supply, or head gasket, there are numerous possibilities.
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Do you have three or four connections on your solenoid.
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I would suspect the valves.
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Yes the engine will run as long as you provide the fuel from the carb cleaner, or starting fluid. Carb cleaner is preferred on small engines though.
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Trace and check your wires in your wiring harness.
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FIRST REMOVE SPARK PLUG(S)!! Could be the relay, switch, wires, or the clutch itself. Turn the key to the run position, have someone on the seat, using "t" pins probe the wires going to the clutch,...
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That is the million dollar question of the century. Have you looked on the blower housing to see if the number is there?
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You need fuel, air, compression, and spark. Check each then let me know where you are.
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Go to sears.com then go to parts, then enter your model number. There you can look at diagrams and parts list.
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I simply suggest cleaning the carb, and entire fuel system, from the tank to the carb and then add fresh fuel.
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Check for governor springs and linkages that are not working.
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After reading in circles, no don't skip any safety wires.
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Hmm, those parts are going to be tough to find.
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Your quite welcome Mountainviewguy. And judging from your entusiasm, it seems as though you must have gotten the mower running. Good job.
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Run the engine for five minutes. Shut down, remove the tappet cover (valve cover), have some old shop towels underneath the cover to catch the oil that is going to run out. Get the engine on...
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If there are the same number of connections on the craftsman solenoid as there are on the murray one, then you should be able to get it to work.
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Just plug the tire with it mounted if you can not remove the tire. Sometimes the rims get "frozen" onto the shafts due to the lack of lubrication and the excessive buildup of rust.
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Check the "brake" operation at the end of the cable that is connected to a lever at the handlebars.
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Sorry, I am not familiar with this product. And there is a "super" type of mix that is available that is suppose to mix properly no matter what the ratio is. I don't think that is completely...
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The click sound could be a fuel solenoid located on the bottom of the carb. Look and see if you have a fuel solenoid.
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Do you mean a whine? Like the starter is spinning but the engine is not turning over? If so, you need to check the bendix gear on the top of the starter. It is probably damaged and the teeth will...
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Remove the kill wire from the coil and try it again, if it fires, check for a short or naked place on the kill wire. Do not try to start the engine this way with the spark plug in the engine,...
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A hickey doesn't have to mean that there was actually sex. But we know that it can easily lead to the such. My daughter is 14 and NOT dating until she is at least 16. I would be some more tore up...
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Put the engine back together. Look back in the body of the mower around the steering column towards the right side of the unit. This is where the fuse is located.
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Go to: sears.com and click on the Parts tab, then enter your model #, then choose to look at the diagram to be sure of the part needed. Then look at the parts list to get the part #. Then you can...
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The "rotor" as you called it is the "chopper" screen that is suppose to help keep debris out off the engine housing as the flywheel pulls in air to help cool the engine.
Now when trying to start...
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More than likely, if you count anything for your labor, and the materials. You could probably almost buy one for what it would take to make one.
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Have you looked on the inside part of the rim? The valve stem will be located on some units to the inside. And if you don't see the stem, chances are you do indeed have a tube and the stem has gone...
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Leave the plug out while trying to get the motor to move, that way you will have less resistance.
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Check the fuse, then the solenoid, then the safety switches.
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Solenoid, wiring, fuse, or safety switch.
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How is the oil level? Is the level overfilled? You could be seeping gas past the needle in the carb, flooding the cylinder and crankcase with gas.
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Look under the hood back towards the seat, behind the steering column.
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How many times have you saw ALUMINUM rust?? The piston is aluminum. And the problem is going to be found in the carb.
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The problem lies within the carb. Your needle and float are staying in the down (fill) position and flooding the carb. The gas then floods the carb bowl and has nowhere else to go except out the...
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Can you upload a picture?
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The fuel system probably has moisture contamination. Remove and clean the tank with carb and choke cleaner.
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And what do you want to know?
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Yep, the coil is probably beginning to break down.
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Be cautious with the hammer, you can cause severe damage. Briggs makes a special tool for pulling the flywheel. You may want to carry it to a shop.
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Find the fuel line coming from the tank and trace it, before you get to the carb, you will locate the fuel filter.
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