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Type: Posts; User: thebriggsdude
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Has enough oil in it? Make sure its not overfilled... and dipstick tube and the upper seal on it are sealing tightly.
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How old is it? And yes what brand engine...
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Small engines (pushmowers) take around 20 ounces... most riding mowers will take 1 to 1.5 quarts...
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More then likey it got bent or jammed... either way your going to have to take the handle off.. you may need a new cable.
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Wouldn't recommend it unless they keep loosening in a short period.
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Single or twin engine? Ohv or side valve flat head?
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What color smoke? Black or white/blue?
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Usually murrays, if they have a shift on the go, its just a transaxle... same setup as the others, just the transaxle is capable of being shifted when its moving.. mtd uses that variable speed drive....
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http://www.tulsaenginewarehouse.com/drawings/allwiring.pdf this may help you...
Btw, murrays all have about the same wiring... if all else fails, find a guy that will let you look at the wiring on...
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Look under the dash panel, it'll have a big red wire going to it, and one going to the starter... turn the key to the on position and take a s crewdriver... jump the two posts. If it indeed starts,...
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Mmmm, if it was run long enough for the rod to break... good chance if its not a cast iron sleeved engine, the piston is stuck in the bore... piston fried, bore fried, rings shot, upper bearing...
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Try PB blaster instead of wd-40, wd-40 sucks really at pentrating and lubing... it does what its made for well... water displacement.. and stick removal.
Is the tire totally blown (big hole in it)?...
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AH yes ohv gasket leaking.. if its got a muffler under the cylinder it'd burn it. Local small engine shop should have it... don't try to use "make-a-gasket" stuff... do it right and get a new one and...
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Straight HD-30 (high detergent) above 40 degrees F
10w-30 and 5w-30 conventional below 40 degrees F
OR 10w-30 and or 5w-30 synthetic all year round...
Using a conventional multi weight will in...
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Yes check the fuse.. have you made totally sure the batterys good?
Try to jump the solenoid (be careful around there, no gas what so ever) with the key turned to on (and something holding the seat...
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Yes that can affect it...
You can go to the weedeater site.. but most places like ace hardware... Lowe's, walmart sell these things and have the little parts for them... was it running OK before...
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Yep... but do keep in mind, a drained battery puts a hurting on the stator... as the engine has to recharge it... not keep it up now..
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I'd go with the AYP myself... (craftsman) skip the mtd... cub cadet maybe.. like new said, if you got good dealer support...
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If you put 3 quarts in... the engine needs to be able to pull the piston down... so your probably compressing oil in the engine, not air... and its pumping it out. Drain it to capacity!
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Yes, possibility a broken oil ring
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Been gone a while...
Briggs head gaskets fail easy sometimes (thin spot in the design) and just simply blow out..
This will overpressurize the crankcase and make it puff like a train...
BUT...
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200 cca (cold cranking amps) at the least... I'd use around 250 or more cca.
The starter... you could just run a switch (to temporarily give power to the starter to turn it over to start) but don't...
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Sounds like either the gas cap isn't venting... (take it off or leave it loose to check this) or the coil is bad (windings shorting out)
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Is it a OHV engine? Have the valves (rocket arms) gapped per that engines specs (usually in the engine owners manual, from the briggs website... ) while your there you can check and see if your...
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Ok, now for that air filter... if its paper, replace it (once a year, just like a car, you'll get better performance and less gas usage if you change it regularly) if its foam... and over 2 years...
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Ahhh it does sound like the exhaust (and will cause this problem) and they have what they call a spark arrestor screen... usually the port is fine, it's the screen or muffler that needs cleaning......
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What exactly is it doing? Running rough, spitting oil or running hot and dry exhaust?
Is the gas freshly mixed? Has it been sitting for a while?
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If it has any scratches... they are not supposed to be there and are your problem (low compression) the piston is not pressed on, it uses a wrist pin to hold it to the connecting rod... and two rings...
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Black smoke is too much gas... white to blue is oil...
DO check the air filter...
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Try a little gas down the carb and see if it'll fire... if it does, rebuild the carb.
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Check the compression then with a gauge... over 90psi is good.
Is the muffler getting wet with gas? Does the carb have any adjustments?
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Steel to hold up against exhaust temps... (sometimes they are hollow) and yes, made to not cause much damage when they are broken...
Btw, some vanguard vtwins can have both of them aluminum......
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Just simply put the key in the start position, and use a screwdriver to jump the two posts on the solenoid...
DO NOT have any gas on you, near you, or any fumes when doing this...
If nothing...
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When you were checking for "shavings" did you see any up and down scoring on the cylinder bore? AND I MEAN ANY... one or two is enough to lower compression, they need At least 90psi... even then they...
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No, aluminum intake, steel exhaust.
The cam sounds OK if the valves still open right when the pushrods are replaced... a flat cam wouldn't allow the pushrods to open the valves much, or at all......
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Make sure you put the solenoid in right (wiggle the wires) and got the correct switch... wiggle this to, then check the fuse.
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Look under the frame for anything binding... yes it's a safety switch keeping you from starting it in gear.
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Ditto. The rest is simple... just put in the valves and springs... its easier if the piston is at top dead center to do this...
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Carb can look clean... but the passages can be clogged... I'd recommend getting a rebuild kit, tearing the carb down, soaking it in carb cleaner overnight and blowing all holes out with compressed...
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Autolite 458 or champion j19lm
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Brand engine?
Best bet is to take the shroud off... could be as simple as the cord jumping the pulley and jamming against the housing.
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You have a stuck float, or water in the carb... probably a leaky inlet needle...
Best thing to do is not run it till its fixed... drain that oil!!
Drain the gas, take the fuel bowl off the...
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You don't... I'd recommend oversized washers... small enough holes so the bolt can still go in, but large enough diameter so it overlaps the hole by a good amount... just need one per bolt.
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Look closely, there should be some sort of marking... on the cam, and on the crank... near the teeth.
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Just line the marks up... may take a few tries when installing the cam..
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It could be, not even related but a coincidence with the trash bag...
One thing to make sure of, is the wiring (mainly the wires from under the flywheel) are tight and clean... and nothings...
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You can try contacting briggs and stratton... as they now own murray.
Could be you wrote the numbers down wrong? Just be sure and double check...
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Breather really isn't a egr (exhaust gas return) more like a pcv valve (positive crankcase ventilation) it lets the internal crankcase pressure out, and the gases...
IS that tube off? And or...
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It could have gotten water in the gas...
Does it have a fuel bowl? Try and drain this and use water remover... (actually isopropyl alcohol at 91% alcohol will do the same)
Did it get rained on?
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