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Post the model and serial number of your 80% furnace.. because there has been a few small issues with them related to the pressure switch... I have a number of questions... how cold is your basement...

The cam-stat failure was a very commen problem with that series of furnaces... as long as they are set up properly... they can have a long life...

Your unit was made in 1988 the 45 week of that year it was manufactured, ( off the assembly line )... then it is usually in stock in Tenn. For up to a year... as wholesale companies put in their...

Post the serial number of the unit ( listed on the ID tag... ) should start with an L this will be the date it ran off the assembly line.

You will loose pressure and volume if another 1/2 inch feed line off the manifold is opened ( at the same time another 1/2 line is running )... Thats why the 3/4 inch feed to the manifold.

Post the serial number... it is the date code, which is only the date it ran off the assembly line...

Another concern... check your local codes... The fuel gas code ( NFPA 54 ) states a minimun height that the unit must be raised above the floor to be 18 inches, and considerations of combustion /...

Your model number must be a NUG5100BFB2 (not a (NU6**) the LP conversion kit did not come with the low pressure safety switch... the # 54 orfices is correct for LP... with a factory install manual...

Your model number is not correct... kindly re-check and post it for us. NOTE: on ICP... heil / tempstar furnaces the LP gas pressure is never 2.5 inches of water... if you run it that low you will...

Do you have the old blown transformer?? By a simple ohms test you can determine which voltage side caused it to burn out... which will guide you to really what the problem may be..?

Kindly post the full model number and make of your boiler. There is very specific operation specs. For all boilers / Beckett burners. I can check the Beckett reference book to see how this oil burner...

That part number is 1003687 which is the 24 inch long 1/8 inch pressure switch rubber tube... it is available at a ICP ( Heil / Tempstar ) wholesale house... check your area phone book. If not go to...

I looking at your post "oil burner maintenance" there is MUCH more to maintain a safe and reliable oil burner... change primary fuel filter, and pump filter, check pump pressure, change oil nozzle,...

You can also go to your local book store and get the " Dewalt HVAC Technician Certification Exam Guide," which has tons of sample questions to test yourself, and the beginning chapters tell you how...

Go to the nate web site and look for sample questions for the section that you are interested in... such as heating / gas section... etc. you can print them out or download them. Don't forget the...

As hvac1000 posted, he gave you a number of things to look for... and here is my two points. Follow the hose from the pressure switch, pull it off that end connecton ( not at the pressure switch) and...

The clicking is most likely the pressure switch, causing the gas valve to cycle the solenoid. A quick check is to take a jumper wire behind behind the two wires on the pressure switch ( just pull off...

Well, in a past post of mine, I was beat-up by a fellow member of this site saying he had installed 100's of 90% furnaces in the attics with no problems... where my post stated that there is a REAL...

I have a number of questions, first is the venting the correct size and length for your unit, and the issue here looks to be that the inducer runs and does NOT make (close) the pressure switch to...

One other VERY important point... follow the install directions to a "T" some types of heat tape are made for pipes with water in them all the time, you MUST use the heat tape that is made for drain...

Two things, kindly post the model number of the fan unit, and if the tech did NOT power off the unit when he made the dip switch changes... it did not register on the fan /control boards logic chip....

I have seen that only once, where a hvac tech didn't read the ID plate to charge a leaking system that had leaked all of the R410a out, and recharged it by ACCIDENT with R-22. It did NOT work after...

A number of things, gas (firing) pressure needs to be checked to factory spec, and burners need to be cleaned... and lastly, a good contractor can adjust them to burn MOSTLY with a blue flame......

What is the boiler BTU/hr input rating?? Look at the ID plate... Your question needs more detail... I assume that you are questioning the water feed pipe size for your boiler (not a furnace)

As well, look for an error code flashing and count the flashes, refer to the chart on the back of the bottom furnace door cover. The error code ( blinking LED on either the gas valve or fan control...

As hvac1000 said you really need to get a hydronics expert out to your location. A 300,000 btu/hr boiler may be correct, there is WAY too many questions to be asked from this web site, such as what...

ICP will not have them on file, ( I deal with their tech support every week) I have install / tech manuals in my office back to the early 1960's as hard copy manuals. He can try, or post the units...

That is a pretty old Heil unit, the (ICP) Heil web site will not have that unit on the web. What are you looking for ? Post the full model number and serial number, and I might be able to find the...

The main limit should have reset itself after the unit cooled down, what is probably still tripped / open is the roll-out safety switches, which are next to the burners. To rest them, just push in on...

The two key points on the line set issue is as follows; 1. is the line set the proper size to use for R-410a ( both liquid and suction?? ) 2. The old line set can be cleaned with a flush made by...

One of the first things you need to do , is check your old transformer with a ohms / continuity test to see which side actually blew. If you have an "open" winding on the primary side ( 115 volt feed...

Last added point... before you start changing all of your zone valves, like earlier posts questioned and made comments on; be sure that you have all of the air out of your zones. In reading your...

An added point... If you go to the Taco zone valves such as the 510G or the 556G valve they are the slowest opening and closing zone valves on the market, and if you look up spec's they are designed...

I do have a question to ask you on your changes to the basement... where is your furnace getting it's combustion air from?? Now that you have built rooms within the basement? I sure hope that it is a...

The cause of the banging is the zone valves slamming shut at the end of a call for heat, and your circulator is still running (other zones still calling for heat, so the circulator is still running)....

And further... if that company was going to charge you $ 300.00 to replace the limit switch... YOU BEST SHOP AROUND FOR A SECOND OPINION... for that repair!!

You stated in your last post... that the tech "bypassed the limit switch" to keep the unit running..? This really has me wondering... he bypassed a safety to check a problem. The safety "limit" is...

The noise may very well be the PVC pipe expanding in length, as it heats up and slides in and out (as it cools) across the foam insulation. Spray in foam should not be right up to the PVC pipe.

Could be a bad capacitor...

hvac1000 is 100% correct on his answer... electric heater have two controls, a relay and a time delay sequencer to stage the strip heater to come on a different times to spread the electrical load on...

The main limit switch controls the heat over the burners by the main heat exchanger, as a safety switch... an over heat condition such as a dirty air filter, bad blower motor, over fired burners, fan...

You may have the fan relay stuck in the on position, shut off power to the unit for about 30 seconds, and power the unit back up. The unit should now fire and run correctly. At the end of the heating...

Clean the flame sense rod which should be in the pilot assembly with sand paper if you have it, and be careful NOT to break the ignitor. That should solve your problem

Your error code is telling you that you have a safety limit string open, meaning either the main temperature limit/ safety has opened due to an over temperature condition, or a "roll-out" safety is...

You may have had ice on the outside ( cond.) units fan blades, and / or the compressor was starting in cold weather without a crankcase heater, meaning all of the refigerant has migrated to the...

Your question leaves out a lot of information... my only comment is you ONLY charge R-410a to systems designed and built by the manufacturer for R-410a. The spec. / ID plate on unit will tell...

If you have a volt meter you must start at the primary 115 voltage feed to the furnace FIRST to be sure that the black (hot) is really the hot lead. Check from the white (neutral) to the ground...

As well, you can go to the following web site Gas detectors | Thermal Imaging Cameras the have water pressure gages that I have described above... great site, I purchase a lot of my inspection...

You stated that you have a new pressure regulator, and most have a check valve in them. If you don't have an expansion tank on the cold water feed side of the water heater, the hot water expands and...

That means the high temp. safety has opened to shut down the burners. Most likely cause, is a dirty air filter, closed feed and/ or return vents, as well, too low of a blower speed on the circulation...