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Pilot cycles on each call for hot wtr. however pilot flame does not prove without the customer flapping his hand under the burner, sensor is clean and flame is excellent.

Tankless htr, piezo electric ignitor on each call for hot wtr.

Pilot will not prove without help

Fan control is stuck

Thanks for the input, some people even go so far as putting a suction accumulator or liq. Solenoid.

2.5 ton, 50 ft. vertical

If I increase my suction from 3/4 to 7/8, do I need to increase my liquid line to? Going 70 ft. to attic. Thanks

Ansr. To question: secondary ht. exchanger is accumulating deposits of what looks like kitty litter and reducing the ability to remove hot gases from unit, had to pull top collector box cover to...

Bad run capacitor

90 % furnace, burner box is hot to the touch and manual reset has tripped once last week, is it possible the inducer mtr. Running to slow? Why doesn't the pressure switch open if this were the case?...

Welded contacts.

You would need a mfd tester for the capacitor, just buy another PROPER sized capacitor with the CORRECT mfd. Rating for your mtr. And try it.. you can always use it with the new mtr. If the bearings...

You must spin the mtr. While it is growling and trying to start, if it comes up to speed and runs nomal the run capacitor is probably OK, also try to move mtr. Shaft (while unpowered) up and down to...

What voltage powers the ignitor,24v or 120v..?. check voltage to ignitor, if nomal then maybe new ignitor bad? If the pilot flame appears good when lit with another heat source then it has to be with...

Blower mtr. Bearings are bad orrrr one of those two capacitors I see is bad, try spinning the mtr. Wheel to get it going.. if it comes up to speed and runs normal you have bad bearings

If the pilot flame is good and not burning too hard as in too much pilot gas pressure and there are no air currents pulling gas away from ignitor, maybe the ignitor is getting weak?

Do you still have the L.P. gas orifice in the pilot assy.? Won't work right with nat. gas..

Answering my own questions now.. went back today and took off ventor mtr. Assy. And cleaned and vacuumed wheel etc. etc.. . found the bearings to be tightening up and causing press. sw. trip,...

.9 is beginning vacuum, 6 in. w.c. is the trip point, when vent gas is 1st vented the vacuum is high and as it runs longer it begins to trip, inspection of interior of inducer revealed nothing out...

Opens for 1 second and resets just as quick and then loses vacuum from .9 to .6 in another 4 minutes and repeats, added new switch and new press hose still doing it, pulled vent pipe and still doing...

Sounds like yer unit is locking out and you're resetting when interupting power, vent mtr. Running during lockout may be normal on this unit.. check sensor (flame), inspect pilot flame while unit is...

Turbo charged? Lol..

Dpdt.. :)

I would call honeywell tech support and see what they say, maybe send them the bad modules..

One would have to buy a gas pressure meter of some sort, train on using it and measure incoming and outgoing pressure, inspect the burner and ht exchanger and flues, and be sure all parts are there...

I have not worked on a rv htr. Like this, all the text book soloutions have been given... a technician should put a trained eye on the problem and fix it in a few minutes.

Scroll compressor?

Gas is burning inside the burner near the orifice and is it noisey like a blow torch?

Is it humidifier wtr.?

Is the trane t-stat actually a sensor with communication wires? If so you would need a conventional t-stat interface circuit board.. that is what is done on rtu's..

Re-read 1st post.. sounds like the furnace has a recovery algorythm built into circuit board and or an out door air temp sensor? Thought only t-stat contollers did this..

I would isolate the zone system which signals the furnace to cycle on and off, and see if it operates normally by jumpering r to w at the furnace to determine if it is a furnace issue or a zone ...

a fan control center and a 4x4 handy box might work, use the relay to make the hi volt contact and use the transformer to power the low voltage, then you could use a typical programmable t-stat..

You need to check and see what voltage is going to that t-stat, 12 gage wire leads me to believe you have high voltage as opposed to 24 volts, you never know what people have done before you...

Can you hear gas coming into burners for 4 seconds once the ignitor starts to spark?

Steam boiler I presume?

Furnace and boiler... 2 different animals... 1 grand would have mentioned zone vlv. Failure if boiler was mentioned.. I believe..

Pilot assy. Or direct fire burner?

Check voltage going to the mtr. is it 120volts?

Thanks 1 grand.

Quick way to diagnose var. spd. Mtrs. (not multi speed mtrs, ex. 3spd mtrs.)

Bad mtr. Bearings possibly

Recommend new mtr. Ball vlv. Assy. if it happened once it will happen again..

Primary or secondary limit opening maybe?

When outside temp hits zero it stops working and when it gets to 55-60 outdoors it starts working again? How could that be? Quits in jan. and starts in April?

Thanks 1000.

Sorry, need to use jumper with inline 3 amp fuse when doing the low volt test, or a mini 3 amp breaker., thanks 1000.

HSI system with no remote sensor, can I replace a silicon carbide ignitor with a nitride ignitor and safely prove ignition, note.. the ignitor pulls double duty, ignites and proves..

Is it an electrical smell?

Yeah... what he said.. danger.