Check out some similar questions!

Patrick008 · Sep 3, 2008, 10:38 AM

I have purchase an Upflush toilet system. I thought I was doing everything correctly. I enclosed it, so you would not want to see the plumbing. I also have it under a floor. My problem now is that the new toilet is right against the wall.

I was told to get an Offset, but what one to get. Currently the flange it the system is cast iron. Do I remove the existing flange to put in a off set one or install the offset right in the cast iron one.

I have to come over about 2". When I use the existing flange the bolts at least on one side is at the area where it come right off the flange.

I am almost at the point to put the toilet tank into the wall.

Please advice.

Patrick

massplumber2008 · Sep 3, 2008, 12:59 PM

Patrick... what does the flange measure from the finished wall to the center of the flange?

Sounds like you are using a regular toilet and if that is the case then you may be able to purchase a toilet that roughs in at 10 inches instead of the normal 12" rough in... so let me know numbers here... ok?

Now... the cast iron flange... why is this a cast iron flange in this case? I would have expected you to install an ABS or PVC plastic flange..? Please explain this to me.. ok?

They make offset flanges in ABS (1st pic. ), PVC (2nd pic.) and cast iron (pic.3). Some offset 1.5" and some offset 2"... will that be enough? This flange would require you to remove the old flange and install the new flange. The toilet will cover the larger hole you will need to make for this flange to set in place correctly. Most likely you will need to go to a plumbing supply house to purchse these offset flanges (although the PVC one is available at all home depots/lowes).

Answer my questions so I can best advise here.. ok?

MARK

speedball1 · Sep 5, 2008, 07:21 AM

I was told to get an Offset, but what one to get. Currently the flange it the system is cast iron. Do I remove the existing flange to put in a off set one or install the offset right in the cast iron one.

The slots on your old flange should give you a little "wiggle room" if you slid the closet bolts as far forward as you can. If you go for a offset flange the old flange will have to be removed. Good luck, Tom

Patrick008 · Oct 8, 2008, 04:04 AM

Massplummer.

Thanks for the infor. I do not know if this is how you reply, but here it goes.

The center is 9 3/4" from the wall. I believe the toilet is already at 10" size.
The system came with a Cast Iron flange.

massplumber2008 · Oct 8, 2008, 04:45 AM

Patrick...

I have a couple more questions...

Are the pipes accessible from underneath?

What kind of pipe did you use?

Is the floor tiled?

What upflush SYSTEM are you using?

Get back to me. I post every day (pretty much) so come back, let me know and I'll respond pretty quick!

MARK

Patrick008 · Oct 8, 2008, 04:56 AM

Mark,

Are the pipes accessible from underneath? No they are behind the wall

What kind of pipe did you use? Back of the unit is PVC to up to my extisting discharge.

Is the floor tiled? Yes. I enclosed the upflush system, so you would not see the plastic tank.

What upflush SYSTEM are you using?
It is called easy flush system by Bur Cam, which I purchase from home depot.

massplumber2008 · Oct 8, 2008, 05:04 AM

Is this your system?

If it is then an offset flange will not be the best case scenario...

If you are roughed in at 9.75 inches then you should be able to fit a 10" rough toilet without a problem. If the toilet you have now doesn't work then it is a 12" rough.

Go purchase a 10" rough in toilet...DRY FIT it to the flange in place now.

My gut feeling is that this will fix this for you!

Cutting new flange into place could backfire here... so try new 10" rough in toilet first!

Let me know how you make out

Patrick008 · Oct 8, 2008, 05:24 AM

Mark,

Thanks for your help. That is the system I bought.

I have a Williamsburgh toilet and it is 10" size.

The entire room is done and the toilet was the last thing to go in. Looks like I am going to put the tank through the wall. Make some kind of cubby hole.

I guess the plumbing unit was suppose to go right up against the wall. Because I have it right up against the wall, but the two pieces of sheet rock and 2X4 was not part of the scenerio.

massplumber2008 · Oct 8, 2008, 05:28 AM

If you measure 9.75 inches from the finish wall then a 10" rough in toilet should be 1/4" off the finish wall...

This is for ALL 10" rough in toilets. I have even managed to fit a 10" rough in toilet to a 9.5 inch measure from finish wall....

How much does your toilet miss by??

SO...you SURE that toilet is a 10" rough in?? Hmmm..?

Patrick008 · Oct 8, 2008, 05:39 AM

It is definitely 10".

Before it was right up against the wall and the right toggle bolt kept popping out of the scoket when I tried tightin the toilet down.

Looking at the cast iron flange, I might have to rotate it clockwise about half inch.

massplumber2008 · Oct 8, 2008, 06:53 AM

Rotating flange may just do it for you. Give it a shot.

Let us know.

josephhunt · May 9, 2011, 07:47 AM

Hello question about a easy flush bur cam pump. The motor keeps running but doesn't pump sewage out. Now the water is sweeping out and the bottom of the toilet. Not sure if this something that I can fix or am I going to need to bring in a plumber.

massplumber2008 · May 9, 2011, 08:06 AM

Hi Joseph...

Sounds like something is caught up in the impeller of the pump.

Unplug the pump and then remove the pump and clean the impeller... should resolve this!

There will be a check valve in place... remove the clamp on the bottom of the check valve... not on the top as there is raw sewage sitting on the top of the check valve... ;)

Let me know what you find, OK?

Mark