I want to install an ultra-high efficiency water heater (98%+ efficient). The exhaust runs cool enough that the combustion product water vapor condenses in the exhaust line and needs to be drained. My plumber told me that it was impossible to install this heater, because there is no floor drain. But I want to install the highest efficiency heater possible!

I am in Long Beach, CA, which uses Uniform Plumbing Code.

My utility room does not have a floor drain (that's what you got in 1957)
The building main sewer line runs horizontally about 24" below the slab in the utility room.
There is a 4" vertical waste stack about 36" from the water heater location (which then ties into the main sewer line underneith)
There is a 2" vertical waste stack about 24" from the water heater location (which then ties into the main sewer line underneith)

Question:

1) Does this condensate drain need to be run into a floor drain? Can it just be run to the exerior of the building, like an overflow, or combustion exhaust? (after all, if the exhaust was warmer, it would just be vapor, and condense as rain...)
2) Does a new floor drain have to be vented?
3) Does the floor drain have to be a new tie into the sewer line, or can it be run to one of the existing stacks?
3) The 2" waste stack and vertical vent stack are in the wall next to the water heater. Could I install a floor drain and drain it into the same stack?
4) Could I put the water heater on a pedestal and build a drain similar to a laundry drain, and run it into the wall and tie into the 2" drain/vent stack? (As long as this is higher than the other fixture that drains into the stack it seems OK to me.. )
5) If I install a floor drain into an existing sewer line, does the inspector want plans for only the tie-in, or does he want plans for the whole building that uses the sewer line? My plumber thinks I need to draw plumbing schematics for the entire condo building if I do this.

Thanks for your help!

High efficiency forced air systems condensate as well and they use litlle condensate pumps to pump up and over to a properly vented p-trap... not sure but seems this would be quick fix to the issue... BUT need to check condensate volume out vs volume pump can pump. That was just a thought. To answer your questions...

1) NO.. you cannot do that... condensation has other products besides water in it, so it is a waste byproduct and will accumulate sediment/slime, etc. over time.

2) Yes, all floor drains/p-traps need to be vented.

3) Depends on what is above, but most likely can run into one of the existing stacks IF p- trap properly vented.

4) I believe if you purchase a properly built pedastal stand and secure heater according to local code that this would work OK.

5) ASK the inspector himself...quick call to city/town hall and simply ask inspector what HE wants. Each town is different.

Let me know if this helped!

Massplumber has you solution. These little condensate pumps are used to carry condensation from air condition evaporator coils when no floor drains are available. No real install required. They amount to a little plastic box with a float, a small pump and a small plastic tube for output. Not much installation here. You just stick the condensation pipe from the ac (or water heater) in the top, run the 1/4" plastic tubing to the outside or a laundry sink and plug it in.

The UPC does allow the condensate to be pumped to a properly trapped and vented indirect drain, but that means very little in the State of California.

Adoption doesn't always equate to full acceptance -- California's amendments to the UPC are nearly as thick as the code itself.

Frankly, I'd check with the local authority to determine if the pump can be discharged into the laundry standpipe first, if that isn't acceptable, then run the idea of providing an indirect drain by them.

Thanks for all your help - I never thought of the condensate drain. The inspector is coming today (for other work) and I'll ask him about it. I'm about 12' from the laundry, so if the pump can handle that I might be in good shape!

I am very surprised your plumber doesn't have the answers to your questions since he works in your area. A condensate pump is a very simple solution but remember to make a loop in the plastic drain line before it enters the pump, that's your trap. I have the pump on my furnace running a 25 foot line across the ceiling and down to my laundry tub, the floor drain was a trip hazard.

Why would you want to trap it, there is no sewer gas.

If it wasn't trapped the CO could run down the tube. All manufacturers specify traps, Rheem tells you to loop the tube.

I think you need to trap it to prevent exhaust gas from the heater from entering the room.

What is CO?

HK... CO stands for carbon monoxide... byproduct of combustion. You knew that ;)

CO=carbon monoxide, the stuff that kills you, CO2 is the stuff in bubbly soda pop. If this were an electric unit there would be no vent, no tube and no pump, just a bigger monthly bill.

OK, so I am a little slow. That means that since the consendate is coming from a combustion unit, the consendate pump and resivior must be a sealed unit or the condensate piping from heater must be traped. Just thinking along the lines of the ones used for a/c evaperator coils.

Wife confirms first statement quite often.
:D I didn't know who won Super bowl until Tuesday night Nightly News:D

Carbon Monoxide

Inspector came by today and I asked. He was happy with the condensate pump into the laundry standpipe, but our building is too close to the building next door to do the proper venting of the system, so he won't let us put it in.

I tried.

The dreaded distance from exhaust vent to neighbor's window... huh? Damn those neighbors needing to breath!! ;)

Hey, better luck next time! It was fun trying to work through with you. Hey if you think we helped please do not be afraid to rate our answers... how we get our kicks!!

Take care.

If you're interested in this kind of technology, I found the following website which might be of interest to you: hot water heating system

I hope this helps.

Seb.

I know this is an old thread but I was just interested in reading all of the responses. One thing that really gripes the pi## out of me is the term.. "hot water heater". You do not need to heat HOT water. It is a "water heater".

That's OK Handyman, but maybe you should see this thread.
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/active...ng-728059.html