The cast-iron has taken on a sandy color so it's hard to tell from the pic, but the cast iron actually goes up flush w/ the floor. If you look close you can see a line at the bottom of the pipe picture. I believe this line is where the trap bell meets the 4" pipe that was knocked off flush w/ the floor.
Air chiseling is what I was afraid of. I'm still afraid.. although maybe I won't hit dirt or crack the pipe..
As for the leading option, I have never leaded any joints, why can't a 2" pipe be leaded into a 4" pipe w/o a bell?
And for the fernco donut option to prevent busting concrete, when I originally tried this it fit snug but leaked around the donut-cast-iron interface when I plugged the 4" pipe and filled the 2" with water above the donut. I imagine this is a problem? Could this be a practical alternative if I ground the rust off or loaded it up w/ silicone caulk?
Originally Posted by
speedball1
I don't see anything to connect to up near the floor line. Is that a piece of cast iron I see farther on in there? If you put a stick down there and it comes back with about three inches of water on it then chances are you're trapped.
There will be no pressure on the drain. Your problem will be connecting the coupling.
But you shot that down when you said, .
You had the right idea at first but you're gonna hafta take out enough cement to connect a 4" Fernco Shielded Coupling ,(see image) to the cast iron pipe and connect a 4 X 2" PVC ruducing bushing and convert to 2" PVC to pick up the shower drain. Good luck, Tom