(1) Yes, That would be the easiest way to convert to PVC.

(2) Code mandates that a access hole 14 X14" be left behind the tub so repairs can be made. This is not a temporary access and is usually framed in and painred to match the wall.

(3) Plumbing supply houses sell a tub drain removal tool but we make our own out of 1 1/4" copper pipe. Look down in the drain at the cross piece. Take a piece of 1 1/4" copper about 4" long and make a crosscut wide enough to slip over the drains cross piece. Now put a 14" pipe wrench on the copper and turn counterclockwise. Since both male and female threads are brass there will be no rust and the 14" pipe wrench will give you the leverage that you need to remove the drain and tub shoe.

(4) Wow! I haven't come across a lead closet bend in over 40 years. I live on the Gulf Coast where we don't have too many older homes. They are knocked down and condos built over them. Some times the land is more valuable then the building it sets on.
The shiny stuff next to the cast iron is solder where the closet bend was "wiped" on to a ferrule that is secured in the cast iron by a lead and okum poured joint. Cut the lead bend out and follow instructions for removing the ferrule and poured joint. They make a tool just for removing lead joints. It's called a lead pick. And looks like a slender chisel that's curved with a sharp edge. But you don't need one of those.
Take a torch and melt down past the lead ring into the okum or pound a screwdriver into the lead down a inch or so. Now you are under the lead ring and you can began to lever it up and out, working your way around rhe hub until it pulls free.

I'm working up quite a file on you. I have all your photos and some of your posts printed out.
Cheers, Tom

I’m back again!

So far, its gone OK….Busted up the slab and removed some earth, both of which took less time and was easier than I thought it would be. I re-pipe the upstairs tub using PVC and my father-in-law came over with the torch last weekend and we removed the lead bend under the slab with no problem.

After this I cleaned out the flange and put in my donut, closet bend, and capped it off until I run the pipe to the shower. I do have a concern about this though. It seems that there is a Tee in the cast iron where the bend comes into the bathroom. The other end goes out to the cesspool. I figured before I unearthed everything that the main stack would drop perhaps another 6” of so before it goes out to the cesspool but that is not the case. Nothing I can change now because this is the way the house was built.

Anyway, I noticed from looking down that 3” stub I temporarily placed at the top of the elbow (see photo) that whenever the toilet, sink, etc. is used some water comes into this pipe. The other day I looked and noticed some “solids” deposited in there.

These are my questions before I finish the drainage piping:

1) Once I bring my 2” pipe to the shower and lavatory, do you think the water and sludge will make it up to these fixtures whenever something upstairs is used, or will the pitch prevent this?

2) If you forsee a problem, would my next option be to re-route the pipe, break the cast “behind” the bathroom and tie-in there instead?

3) Will the installation of the toilet alleviate this problem, being that when it is flushed maybe it will help to direct everything out towards the cesspool, and prevent this pipe from getting clogged?

4) This bathroom probably won’t be used as much as the one upstairs, so maybe it’s just a matter of snaking out the lines once or twice a year just to be sure they don’t become clogged. What do you think?

Also if you want to see photos of the plumbing work, click on the following link.

http://community.webshots.com/user/jbone5014


Thanks

Jon

Attached Images

 

Hey Jon,
At the base of the stack I'm looking at a tee with a side inlet that picks up what? Dig the tee out a bit and send me a photo.
1) Once I bring my 2” pipe to the shower and lavatory, do you think the water and sludge will make it up to these fixtures whenever something upstairs is used, or will the pitch prevent this?

Since I can't see the downstream side of the tee I can't really be sure exactly what fitting I'm looking at. I hope a drainage tee with a bend that directs the flow outward. There's bound to be a little "backwash" from the discharge dropped down from upstairs. Not to worry, pitch and the discharge from the downstairs bath group should keep the line clear.

2) If you forsee a problem, would my next option be to re-route the pipe, break the cast “behind” the bathroom and tie-in there instead?

I don't forsee a problem with the layout as it is.


3) Will the installation of the toilet alleviate this problem, being that when it is flushed maybe it will help to direct everything out towards the cesspool, and prevent this pipe from getting clogged?

Answered in #1

4) This bathroom probably won’t be used as much as the one upstairs, so maybe it’s just a matter of snaking out the lines once or twice a year just to be sure they don’t become clogged. What do you think?

I don't see a problem at all. In time the shower line will clog up with hair and grease, (they all do). I don't know if the back wall of the shower is a outside or a inside wall but if it's a inside wall you might consider cutting in a 2"wye and running it back of the shower wall to a cleanout just so you wouldn't have to snake the basement group from the lavatorey vent on the roof.
PS. The thumbnails were great, they put me right in step with you as you proceed. Cheers, Tom

Tom -

Sounds good, I'm going to dig that out a bit just to see what I have. The side inlet you were wondering about is just that steel pipe that was originally the drain & vent for the existing lavatory that was here, and now it will only act as a vent for the new bathroom group once I tie it in (see previous posts & photos).

The shower is on an inside wall which I just finished re-framing by the way in order to get it perfectly square for the shower wall which will be tiled. It's not a bad idea to locate that cleanout you are talking about in the wall and I may do it, however, would it be OK when the time comes to just unscrew the shower drain and snake the line from there to where it ties in at the toilet?

Jon

Hi Jon,

"It's not a bad idea to locate that cleanout you are talking about in the wall and I may do it, however, would it be OK when the time comes to just unscrew the shower drain and snake the line from there to where it ties in at the toilet?"

You may go in through the shower drain with a snake, however you'll have to work it around the return bend in the trap if you do. I just gave you a easier option. Cheers, Tom

My drain lines are in, they have been tested with a hose (No leaks, yes! ), and now I am in the process of backfilling the trench and tonight hope to pour the concrete.


I just had a couple questions about the toilet riser & flange before I proceed:

I have a 4 X 3 closet flange and I have a piece of 3" PVC to use as a riser coming from the closet bend. The 3" pipe and the flange throat are the same diameter, so rather than use a bushing which would force me to glue everything together now and estimate the final flange height...


1)Can I get a flange which either fits over or inside the 3" PVC?

2) If this is the case, should I just glue a 3" riser that is longer than I need and leave a small gap around the outside when I do the concrete so the flange will fit over this after I cut it to the correct height?

3) It is my understanding that the underside of the closet flange sits on top of the finished tiled floor, meaning I would cut the riser and mount the flange later on after I lay the tile. What type of fastener would I use to mount the flange thorugh the tile and into the concrete, a tapcon or concrete screw of some sort?

Thanks,


Jon

Hi Jon,

I've been off line for a little bit. I had to format my hard drive.


1)Can I get a flange which either fits over or inside the 3" PVC?

Yes, both are available which one do you want?

2) If this is the case, should I just glue a 3" riser that is longer than I need and leave a small gap around the outside when I do the concrete so the flange will fit over this after I cut it to the correct height?

If you go with the outside closet flange,( recommended) then get a styrafoam (sp) closet wrapper to place around the stub up before pouring the floor. That will leave you the space you need to set the flange.


3) It is my understanding that the underside of the closet flange sits on top of the finished tiled floor, meaning I would cut the riser and mount the flange later on after I lay the tile. What type of fastener would I use to mount the flange thorugh the tile and into the concrete, a tapcon or concrete screw of some sort?

Tile up to the closet wrapper and cut the stub up flush with the floor line. You shouldn't have to secure the flange as the cement and ground should hold it firm but if you can move it after it's been set for tile floors we drill a 1/4" hole and plastic inserts and screw the flange to those. For vinyl over cement we use Tapcons.
Regards Tom

Hope this helps... If I post this site much more people will think I work there.

Plumbest.com has a catalog with a ton of flanges. Below is a link to one that fits inside a 3 inch and does not require cement.


http://www.plumbest.com/searchengine...atalog/e93.htm

Drainage phase is complete, framing is just about completed and I will soon focus my energy on installing the water supply lines. Had a couple of questions regarding this. The hot & cold lines I cut and capped when demolishing the bathroom... one is 3/4" and the other 1/2" , don't remember which is which.

Anyway...

1) Is it OK to run 1/2" supply lines to all my fixtures?

2) I was trying to plan out the routing of the lines and it seems the easiest way would be to run them across the ceiling joists, notching them out. Is this OK to do, and how would I secure the pipe so it doesn't move up and down?
Perhaps with those metal plates or 1/2" copper pipe clamps?

Thanks,

Jon

Hi Jon, welcome back.

1) Is it OK to run 1/2" supply lines to all my fixtures?

Code calls for not over three fixtures on a 1/2" branch that comes off a 3/4" main. Since I'm looking at only three fixtures in your picture the answer is yes.

2) I was trying to plan out the routing of the lines and it seems the easiest way would be to run them across the ceiling joists, notching them out. Is this OK to do, and how would I secure the pipe so it doesn't move up and down?
Perhaps with those metal plates or 1/2" copper pipe clamps?

It's acceptable to run overhead and drop to pick up the fixtures. Do not use galvanized plates as it could set up galvanic current and eat into the copper pipe with electrolysis. 1/2" copper pipe straps are what you should use. If securing the supply drop lines become a problem then we tack the drop pipe to the pipe strap with a little solder. Kudos on winding down your remodel job. Tom