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Ed8 · Feb 10, 2005, 06:33 AM

I have a leak in my shower drain. I would like to remove the drain to replace or re-seal it. I do have access underneath since it is in a ranch. It looks like there is a large ring or nut screwed on from below to tighten up the drain and compress the gasket between the drain flange and the shower floor. The ring/nut on the bottom has some bumps on it and the inside of the drain on the top has some notches in it.

Are there special tools needed to remove the drain?
How do I loosen and tighten this thing?

I am thinking that I may as well get a new drain and gaskets while it is all taken apart. Is the ring/nut thing on the bottom a universal size? I don't see how I would get the old one off or get a new one on.

speedball1 · Feb 10, 2005, 06:54 AM

Originally Posted by Ed8

I have a leak in my shower drain. I would like to remove the drain to replace or re-seal it. I do have access underneath since it is in a ranch. It looks like there is a large ring or nut screwed on from below to tighten up the drain and compress the gasket between the drain flange and the shower floor. The ring/nut on the bottom has some bumps on it and the inside of the drain on the top has some notches in it.

Are there special tools needed to remove the drain?
How do I loosen and tighten this thing?

I am thinking that I may as well get a new drain and gaskets while it is all taken apart. Is the ring/nut thing on the bottom a universal size? I don't see how I would get the old one off or get a new one on.

Shower Drain Leak

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You're not going to like what I have to say. Are you saying that that the drain installation goes like this? Strainer, threaded drain flange lip that tightenes down on a rubber gasket? Is so then the man that installed your shower made a mistake a lot of installers do if they aren't familiar with installing shower drains.
Not the correct way of installation. It goes like this. The threaded drain and lip, sealent, (plumbers putty) under the lip then underneith the shower pan the rubber washer, then the friction ring and finally the retaining nut that tightens the drain. That's the way we install them. To back up my claim I pulled up the installation procedure from a replacement drain.

Install the drain body down through the shower pan.
Don't forget to use the appropriate sealer.( plumbers putty)
From underneath, install the rubber gasket and the fiber friction washer, Secure the drain with the brass retaining nut.
You can see the entire procedure if you wish by clicking on; http://www.davke.com/installation.htm
To do the job the way it should have been done you will have to install the drain correctly.
However you might want to check this site out. http://www.plumbrite.com/
Click on the installation tab on top to see how it's done
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Tom

Ed8 · Feb 10, 2005, 07:34 AM

Oops, you are right, the rubber washer and friction ring are below he shower pan, I can see the edge of them sticking out from below. I'll know more once I have removed the old drain and see exactly what is in there.

How do I remove the retaining nut? Is there a special tool?

I can see everything from below in the basement although I may have to cut away at some more plywood to get a tool up there.

The guy at Home Depot told me to use silicone caulk rather than plumbers putty. Is one better than the other?

Thanks. Ed

speedball1 · Feb 10, 2005, 11:42 AM

Originally Posted by Ed8

Oops, you are right, the rubber washer and friction ring are below he shower pan, I can see the edge of them sticking out from below. I'll know more once I have removed the old drain and see exactly what is in there.

How do I remove the retaining nut? Is there a special tool?

I can see everything from below in the basement although I may have to cut away at some more plywood to get a tool up there.

The guy at Home Depot told me to use silicone caulk rather than plumbers putty. Is one better than the other?

Thanks. Ed

Hi Ed, Why replace the drain when all you have to do is loosen it and lift it up so you can use a sealant ,( your choice, we use putty but silicon jel will work) and simply tighten it back down.
If we have room and the retaining nut has lugs on it we use a really big pair of pliers. If the space is tight we use a basin wrench and catch the lugs or take a screwdriver and, by tapping the lugs, back it out and tighten it that way. Sound like a plan? Tom

Ed8 · Feb 10, 2005, 01:02 PM

Originally Posted by speedball1

Hi Ed, Why replace the drain when all you have to do is loosen it and lift it up so you can use a sealant ,( your choice, we use putty but silicon jel will work) and simply tighten it back down.
If we have room and the retaining nut has lugs on it we use a really big pair of pliers. If the space is tight we use a basin wrench and catch the lugs or take a screwdriver and, by tapping the lugs, back it out and tighten it that way. Sound like a plan? Tom

Tom,

Yes, sounds like a plan. I'll give it a try. Thanks for your help!!

Ed

katman1 · Nov 27, 2010, 10:10 AM

Your first priority is to find the leak and repair it. Is it leaking all the time or only when you use the shower? Knowing this will help you to eliminate or focus on the supply side. If it is leaking only when you use it, then you can isolate it to the output side of the shower valve. There are several places where it could leak, so take off as much trim as possible and attempt to locate the leak. Is the drain tight? Although the shower floor slopes toward the drain, this could be a possible source of the water appearing on the bathroom floor. Another thing to inspect would be the seals on the shower valve that prevent water from leaking around the stem when in the 'on' position. As far as the water that is under/around the shower, I recommend you leave off the trim for a while and soak up any residue with towels. I have fashioned a fitting for my wet/dry vac that consists of a pvc reducer, some medium to small gauge tubing and some duct tape and this allows me to vacuum in tight spaces. Whatever method you use, be certain to dry out the area thoroughly and repair the leak before reinstalling 1/4 round and shower trim.

speedball1 · Nov 27, 2010, 03:36 PM

Hello Katman,
And welcome to AskMeHelkpDesk and the Plumbing Page.
You are responding to a 5 year old dead thread. Look in the upper left hand corner for the dates. But don't let that stop you from posting.
I'll be looking forward to working with you. Regards, Tom