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    scottdjones1300's Avatar
    scottdjones1300 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Nov 19, 2007, 11:41 AM
    Shower drain for 1.5" PVC pipe?
    I am installing a new shower in the basement into the concret slab.
    1. My problem is the plumber who ran new pvc for this drain and wet bar used 1.5" pvc and not the required 2."
    2. When he tied the pvc into the existing drain work he connected it very close to the surface of the concrete slab. I don't have much room for the typical tall shower drain, so a 2" to 1.5" reducer isn't really helpful.
    3. My goal is to find a shower drain that I can tie into 1.5" pvc so that I can pour new graded floor.

    Issues:
    1. I don't have much room between the future level of the floor and the trap for the shower.

    What I need:
    1. Does anyone know of a shower drain that can be installed inside of a pvc pipe (the drain part will be the male piece and the 1.5" pipe is the female). The part would need to be low profile and be able to fit into the 1.5" pvc. (low profile meaning; short from drain surface to pipe connection)

    For installation:
    I will be pouring new concrete around it to grade the floor towards the drain and then tiling over the concrete (I know this isn't the best idea but that is another issue I've already addressed).

    Thanks for your help.
    Scott
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #2

    Nov 19, 2007, 04:13 PM
    A side outlet drain is the only thing I can think of.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #3

    Nov 19, 2007, 06:02 PM
    OK Scoutt the second half of your post you describe building a shower pan from scratch. I think you should do some home work and read site like How to Build a Shower Pan Proper membranes, drains with weep holes and other are important I I'm not so sure you knew about these things, did you?
    plumberjames83's Avatar
    plumberjames83 Posts: 99, Reputation: 5
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    #4

    Nov 19, 2007, 06:32 PM
    Builfd a p- trap with a larger "trap wier" easy nuff said and done that way you can lower your trap...
    And no being as you alrady have 1.5 you cannot reduce from 2" to 1.5 will it work yes i am sad to say ( as a plumber) i have done this and it does work but not the "right answer" I had to do what I had to do you know
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #5

    Nov 19, 2007, 06:59 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    builfd a p- trap with a larger "trap wier" easy nuff said and done that way you can lower your trap ...
    and no being as you alrady have 1.5 you cannot reduce from 2" to 1.5 will it work yes i am sad to say ( as a plumber) i have done this and it does work but not the "right answer" i had to do what i had to do ya know
    There are instances where 'deep trapping' might be called for, but if the trap arm is as close to the surface as he describes, then this isn't one of those times.
    scottdjones1300's Avatar
    scottdjones1300 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Nov 19, 2007, 07:22 PM
    I have done basic research on building a shower pan from scratch. I understand that I should have shower liner etc. but I am trying to keep the floor continuous tile without any lip. A lip or raised edge will reduce the feel of the size of this bathroom. This shower will be used less than once a month.
    The shower liner paper is great and I understand it's use on second and third floors but in a basement it seems a bit useless because I don't care if water seeps into the ground. I was told that a liner needs to have at least an inch of concrete on top of it. If that is true then why bother with the liner paper? I will be tiling over the inch of concrete which is over the liner paper which is over the concrete slab which is over dirt. If I tile directly over the slab and water does penetrate it would only move into the ground. I've been told the tiles might crack over the years if water gets under them.. in the scenerio I use the liner paper wouldn't that have the same potential to crack?

    Can you tile directly over the shower liner paper?
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #7

    Nov 19, 2007, 08:10 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by scottdjones1300
    I have done basic research on building a shower pan from scratch. I understand that I should have shower liner etc. but I am trying to keep the floor continous tile without any lip. A lip or raised edge will reduce the feel of the size of this bathroom. This shower will be used less than once a month.
    The shower liner paper is great and i understand it's use on second and third floors but in a basement it seems a bit useless because i dont care if water seeps into the ground. I was told that a liner needs to have at least an inch of concrete on top of it. If that is true then why bother with the liner paper? I will be tiling over the inch of concrete which is over the liner paper which is over the concrete slab which is over dirt. If i tile directly over the slab and water does penetrate it would only move into the ground. I've been told the tiles might crack over the years if water gets under them.. in the scenerio i use the liner paper wouldn't that have the same potential to crack?

    Can you tile directly over the shower liner paper?
    Concrete being as porous as it is, the water will eventually find it's way under the slab, but not before mold and mildew set in.

    If you aren't going to put in a liner, then at least epoxy or RedGard the concrete before laying the tile and seal the grout and then make re-sealing the grout a twice yearly maintenance item.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #8

    Nov 19, 2007, 08:56 PM
    Growlers right, it still needs to be sealed. Water will seep downward but it also goes sideways and it can cause problems. When you lay your tile your will put down a 1/4" of thinset with a 1/4" tile on top of that. It will not be flat to the old floor so an edge, even a small one is needed so the water can't go out the doorway of the shower. You also need a curb on the sides where the walls come down to the shower floor. UI think you are trying to build a Roman shower but it won't work properly without a curb or raising the floor in the rest of the room to higher than the shower.
    scottdjones1300's Avatar
    scottdjones1300 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #9

    Nov 20, 2007, 04:04 PM
    Growler and ballenger,
    Thank you for your response. I have dug out the area where the shower will be located so I'll be pouring a new sloped floor there. The walls will also be tiled. I will plan to maintain a yearly coat of sealer applied.
    Growler the side drain may be a good option for me to install a proper drain.

    I'd like to send some pics so you can get a better idea. Is that something I can send out?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #10

    Nov 20, 2007, 05:52 PM
    If you use two part epoxy grout you won't need to seal every year. Let me know if you want help with the tiling. Regards Bob

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