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    JPR_MA's Avatar
    JPR_MA Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Apr 19, 2010, 04:40 AM
    Saniflo venting
    Hi all, planning to put a saniflo in the basement to handle toilet/sink. The main line is approx 3ft above ground. In MA we need to have a licensed plumber do the install, which is fine. So I found this pipe in the basement, it's labeled FV (future vent I assume). Is this where the vent will tie into?

    We are also installing a sink connecting to the saniflo as well. My question is can the sink be on an adjacent wall (two 90 degree turns) as long as the down slope is maintained on the drain? Also, can the vent from the sink tie into the saniflo vent? I can more info/pics if needed.

    Thanks all for the help, this is a great website.

    John
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    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,824, Reputation: 1211
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    #2

    Apr 19, 2010, 04:57 AM
    Hi JPR...

    In MA, you will connect the toilet directly to the saniplus and you will vent the sink and connect that to the future vent at about 42-48" off the finish floor or higher. The saniplus vent will combine into the sink vent OR it can connect directly into the future vent as well.

    Check out the installation instructions at:

    http://saniflo.com/pdf/install/PLUS_US.pdf

    Let us know if you have questions...

    Mark
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #3

    Apr 19, 2010, 06:32 AM

    Unlike your house vent system a holding tank vents both ways. Out when a fixture discharges into it and in when the pump lifts it up to the main. You must vent the tank but you do have options. You can run a vent out the roof or
    Up and revent into a existing dry vent at least 6" over the flood rim of the
    highest fixture. Another option would be to exit out the basement and run up the
    side of the building a ways. However there are limitations.<BR>You must not
    terminate them under a window, door or any ventilation system, or within 10 feet
    of such openings unless it's at least 2' above such opening. The vent terminal
    shall be screened and slope back to the tank at 1/8th to 1/4" to the foot.
    (Chapter 14, Section 1404.4 of the Standard Plumbing Code) good luck, Tom
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,824, Reputation: 1211
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    #4

    Apr 19, 2010, 06:52 AM
    Tom...

    John said he is installing a SANIFLO macerating pump system for the basement bathroom. This system allows for the pump vent to connect directly into a common plumbing vent like an individual fixture vent or a future vent as shown in the pic. Anyway, he's all set connecting as shown at the link I attached at my first post... :)

    John, I forgot to answer part of your question...

    Yes, 2 90s are fine as long as you maintain a 1/4" pitch per foot of pipe... long sweep 90s are required by code.

    Good day!

    Mark
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #5

    Apr 19, 2010, 07:07 AM

    Mark,
    I realize what the installation instructions say. I'm just not comfortable putting pressure in a house vent system that depends on vacuum to make it work.
    In your opinion should all macerating pump systems tie the pit vent back to the house vent?
    Have things changed that much since I retired? Cheers, Tom
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,824, Reputation: 1211
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    #6

    Apr 19, 2010, 07:11 AM
    My guess is that a macerating pump works off different priciples and doesn't depend on the mechanics of air like an ejector pump does. The pump has a 3/4" discharge pipe... amazing!

    I've installed these toilets and every time the vents all combine and connect to the plumbing system exactly as the manufacturer recommends... never had any problems with any of them... ;)

    Why mess with success?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #7

    Apr 19, 2010, 07:17 AM

    Thanks Mark.
    Since we don't have basements in my area we don't install Sanaflo or
    Ejector pumps. I have to learn from you guys. Thanks again, Tom
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,824, Reputation: 1211
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    #8

    Apr 19, 2010, 07:22 AM
    It's a great system... one drawback, however, is that the pump cycles very frequently and it is a high-pitched whiney sound. The sound isn't so bad for a flush or just draining a sink on occasion, but if you connect a shower or tub the noise is quite offensive after 3 or 4 minutes... LOL!

    Mark
    JPR_MA's Avatar
    JPR_MA Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Apr 19, 2010, 05:58 PM

    Thanks for the quick replies. No tub/shower, just 1/2 bath. Are there any pros/cons of combining the vents vs. connecting separate to the FV. Also, just curious, will the 3/4 discharge connect to the 3 inch main horizontal pipe. Thanks again.

    John
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    truck 41 Posts: 221, Reputation: 21
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    #10

    Apr 19, 2010, 10:30 PM

    I saw a display of one of these at the plumbing supply store, and the bowl looked like a kiddie toilet, is there anyone out there who has one of these and how satified are you with it? Thanks.---zeke---
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,824, Reputation: 1211
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    #11

    Apr 20, 2010, 04:44 AM
    Hi all:

    ZEKE: The toilet does look a little funny, for sure, but it flushes great! Except for the noise I mentioned earlier, and NEVER fail to mention to my customers prior to installing the unit, I have never received any complaints from my customers about this setup. I do, however, strongly suggest that my customers consider installing the underground sewage ejector systems as it allows them to choose a toilet that they like and the fact that the pit cycles less frequently (and more quietly) usually wins them over. The saniflo system is a great 2nd choice!

    JPR: No issues connecting the vents before connecting into the future vents... it's the way the manufacturer wants them connected (see above link with directions and diagrams of the saniplus system). In terms of connecting into the 3" horizontal drain line you will want to connect into the drain line using a 3"x2" wye rolled on top of the pipe and then drop the discharge pipe from up high down into this wye fitting. Be clear that the discharge pipe pitches from up high (at the pump) down to where it connets into the 3"x2" wye...just like any waste line. I would also increase the discharge line to a 1" PVC at the pump... then increase to 2" at the 3"x2" wye. The instruction maual has all the pictures you'll need showing all this... ;)

    Back to you...

    Mark
    JPR_MA's Avatar
    JPR_MA Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Apr 20, 2010, 04:23 PM

    Mark, et all,

    Thanks for all the info. Does it matter where the discharge pipe ties into the main line (in between bath and kitchen drain in above pic) or where it will not "merge" with another drain? Also, as a homeowner in MA, what can I do to reduce costs (buy own materials, preassemble pipes) and what is the plumber required to do (make connections to main line/vent). If there's something I can do to save a little money while staying within the state law, I'll do it. Maybe I'm thinking too much about this, just very curious how it all works. Thanks again.

    John


    Do you mind taking a look at my other questions?

    Thanks
    John

    Do you mind taking a look at my follow up questions?

    Thanks

    John
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,824, Reputation: 1211
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    #13

    Apr 27, 2010, 04:42 PM
    Hi John...

    Still need answers to your questions? If so, just repost to this question and it will alert me. I'll answer within 24 hours.. promise!

    Mark
    JPR_MA's Avatar
    JPR_MA Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Apr 27, 2010, 05:36 PM

    Hey Mark, I've been trying to what I thought was repost, but it kept combining with my last post. Thanks for looking me up. Would definitely appreciate some comments to my last questions.

    Thanks
    John
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,824, Reputation: 1211
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    #15

    Apr 29, 2010, 04:52 AM
    Hi John...

    Tough question, but I'll attempt an answer... OK?

    In MA, the plumber is required to pull the permit as you know. Most plumbers won't like the idea of you doing any work that will fall under their license when being inspected so I have to advise you to get a few plumbers out and get some estimates from them... see just how involved they will allow you to get... if at all... ;)

    Some will allow you to buy fittings, pipe, etc, but will still throw a markup in the price they give you so at that point it may look like you are saving a little but are still paying a lot AND you did all the work getting the material... you know?

    Anyway, if you do some of the work prior to a plumbers arrival you may not have the issues noted above. Just act as if the work has been there all along... just needs to be finished... right?

    Anyway, I attached a drawing to your photo of how I would pipe this up. If you make the cuts as drawn and cut when needed you should only need a 2" coupling (and the 3"x2" wye and associated fittings) to rejoin everything... ;)

    Let me know what you think...

    Mark
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    JPR_MA's Avatar
    JPR_MA Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Apr 29, 2010, 05:36 PM
    Mark,

    Thanks for the post. I understand everything except cutting the 2" vertical pipe, then joining with a coupler. Can you provide a little more detail on why this needs to be cut? Thanks again, I'll post pics when finished (probably not for a little while).

    John
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,824, Reputation: 1211
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    #17

    Apr 30, 2010, 04:51 AM
    Hi John...

    You're right, you probably don't need to cut and couple the 2" if there is enough play in the 3" pipe to let you slip the new 3"x2" wye fitting into place. Just be careful not to flex the 2" pipe too much and you should be fine!

    Good day!
    JPR_MA's Avatar
    JPR_MA Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    May 2, 2010, 06:09 PM

    Mark,

    Didn't realize the 2" needed to be cut to fit the 3x2 wye, but I understand now. I'll keep it in mind when the plumber comes. Thanks for the all the info, I'll keep you posted...

    John

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