Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    sstewart's Avatar
    sstewart Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jul 4, 2005, 01:47 PM
    Replacing bathtub and shower fixtures
    (1) When replacing bathtub "snout", shower controls etc.. Do you caulk around the fixtures or use plumbers puddy? The original installation had plumbers puddy.

    (2) Do you place the caulk so the fixtures "sqeeze" out some material or just inside the fixtures? Example: I've obtain some information that says you only need to caulk around the shower control flange just inside so water can't find its way into the hole in the tub/shower. Other say caulk around all devices and smooth out what sqeezes out.

    (3) What would the cause be for the tub to not hold water. It slowly drains even if the control arm is lifted to "seal" the drain. Also, how do you adjust the linkage arm if that is needed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Flickit's Avatar
    Flickit Posts: 278, Reputation: 2
    Full Member
     
    #2

    Jul 6, 2005, 03:42 AM
    Plumber's putty...
    Quote Originally Posted by sstewart
    (1) When replacing bathtub "snout", shower controls etc.. Do you caulk around the fixtures or use plumbers puddy? The original installation had plumbers puddy.

    (2) Do you place the caulk so the fixtures "sqeeze" out some material or just inside the fixtures? Example: I've obtain some information that says you only need to caulk around the shower control flange just inside so water can't find its way into the hole in the tub/shower. Other say caulk around all devices and smooth out what sqeezes out.

    (3) What would the cause be for the tub to not hold water. It slowly drains even if the control arm is lifted up to "seal" the drain. Also, how do you adjust the linkage arm if that is needed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    ... is easier to work with but I don't know of any that can be dispensed as can caulk. Either will do the job but make sure you choose a caulk made for bathroom use. This caulk is very sticky and difficult to clean up.
    2. Caulk around all devices and let the excess ooze out. This makes the best waterproof seal.
    3. The adjustment can usually be found by unscrewing the control arm fixture and pulling it away from the tub.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #3

    Jul 6, 2005, 06:49 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by sstewart
    (1) When replacing bathtub "snout", shower controls etc.. Do you caulk around the fixtures or use plumbers puddy? The original installation had plumbers puddy.

    (2) Do you place the caulk so the fixtures "sqeeze" out some material or just inside the fixtures? Example: I've obtain some information that says you only need to caulk around the shower control flange just inside so water can't find its way into the hole in the tub/shower. Other say caulk around all devices and smooth out what sqeezes out.

    (3) What would the cause be for the tub to not hold water. It slowly drains even if the control arm is lifted up to "seal" the drain. Also, how do you adjust the linkage arm if that is needed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Good morning Stewart,

    (1) We caulk with Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk. The older installations used plumbers putty.

    (2) We grout the spout, chrome covers, etc. after they are installed. We run a ring of Dap around the installation and smooth it in with out finger and wipe the excess off with a damp cloth.

    (3) If you will remove the two chrome screws that secure the cover plate and lever on the tub waste and pull up you will be left holding the linkage and lift bucket, (small brass plug that seals the drain). The reason your tub leaks water is the lift bucket isn't dropping down far enough to make a seal. You will see threaded adjustments linking the lift bucket to the trip lever. Make SMALL ADJUSTMENTS lengthening the linkage until a seal is made and the tub holds water. I have a diagram but it's too large to attach to this post. If you give me your E-mail addy I'll send it down. Good luck Tom
    Flickit's Avatar
    Flickit Posts: 278, Reputation: 2
    Full Member
     
    #4

    Jul 6, 2005, 09:29 AM
    Is plumbers putty...
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1
    Good morning Stewart,

    (1) We caulk with Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk. The older installations used plumbers putty.

    (2) We grout the spout, chrome covers, ect. after they are installed. We run a ring of Dap around the installation and smooth it in with out finger and wipe the excess off with a damp cloth.

    (3) If you will remove the two chrome screws that secure the cover plate and lever on the tub waste and pull up you will be left holding the linkage and lift bucket, (small brass plug that seals the drain). The reason your tub leaks water is the lift bucket isn't dropping down far enough to make a seal. You will see threaded adjustments linking the lift bucket to the trip lever. Make SMALL ADJUSTMENTS lengthening the linkage untill a seal is made and the tub holds water. I have a diagram but it's too large to attach to this post. If you give me your E-mail addy I'll send it down. Good luck Tom
    ... OK otherwise? The reason I ask is because I have the worse luck with caulk (no artist here!) and had found the putty much easier to clean up afterwards.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #5

    Jul 6, 2005, 10:13 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Flickit
    ...OK otherwise? The reason I ask is because I have the worse luck with caulk (no artist here!) and had found the putty much easier to clean up afterwards.
    We use Dap White Tub and Tile Caulk because it finishes off neat, fills any cracks, leaves a professional looking job and because it's water soluble and cleans up with a damp cloth. We haven't used putty to grout for over 40 years in my area. Cheers, Tom

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Replacing basement shower with bathtub.. [ 13 Answers ]

Hi guys. So, I need to replace a basement shower with a bathtub. I replaced tubs before, not that hard. However, I've never quite done this, and I'm concerned about the drain. Obviously, I'd like to move it a bit, maybe a foot or so. How hard is it to adapt what's there to a bathtub drain. ...

New Bath & Shower Fixtures [ 2 Answers ]

I had a new shower/bath area built and plumbed quite some time ago. I have finished tiling and an ready to have the shower nozzle, hot/cold knobs, and bath faucet installed. I was just told the pipes that were installed must match the brand of fixture. Is this right? I have no idea what the...

Replacing landscape light fixtures.. [ 6 Answers ]

We have a landscape lighting (that goes the length of our walkway on both sides) that was installed when the house was built, and that was 14 years ago. The light fixtures are getting chipped and moldy and I want to replace it for a much up to date ones. Is it possible to change just the fixtures...

Turning walking shower stall into bathtub/shower combo. [ 4 Answers ]

Question: Current shower drain (2" pipe) runs 5 feet, under slab, to vent stack (5" cast iron vent pipe) of toilet. Will need to move the drain 3ft to wall for new tub. After moving the drain, the complete length of the pipe will still be around 5 feet. We will have to reduce the drain line...

Installing new bathtub and fixtures... [ 7 Answers ]

Hi My wife and I just began ripping out our old bathtub to put in a new one. We decided we would also like new faucettes etc. I disconnected the hot and cold taps but the shower pipe will not come loose. Is this a soldered pipe? It appears to have a nut on it but I can't get it loose at all. Any...


View more questions Search